Corvair Forum

the 'block' and it's cam may be the same,but just swapping the heads won't get you a "140" engine, the distrib also has a diiferent advance to it..so, besides the 'nitride' hardening of the crank,the '140' heads AND the '140' distrib would be needed-110hp's use the '319' but a 140hp uses a '330 ...

NO welding,the weld WILL 'shrink the parts off-center!! (among other things..) Unless you have the experience BOLTING a flywheel, don't; unless you dial-indicate it (properly) to center it,you'll probably run off center..let the few who do it handle it, and send the pressure plate (even the disc ...

while a '65 CAN be adjusted and used on a '66-'69 trans,there are several parts that are "different", on top of 'rusted and worn' parts..first the shifter assembly MUST BE aligned in the centerof it's travel (ie-the same distance between the 'stick' and the "cup" # 11, and the two 1/4" pegs in the ...

I'd like to see some 'data' comparing the folded fin early cooler to an 8-plate late with the sides blocked off (like an A/C 12 plate)..

Try Seth Emerson' David Clemens or Michael LeVeque for the right 'hoses'..I "used to do S-10's", but many companies use their 'metric' caliper including Speedway so it depends on if you're using them on the front or rear, or have them re-machined for 'pipe thread' inlets..

I'm partial to the "110hp" engine ;the 'feeler gauge' method is for a new, UNworn distributor ! I use an 'analog' meter to set the point gap, cap and rotor are OFF so it won't start, and you can see if you're on top-dead-center for #1 piston, or 1/2-way off on 'BDC' (TDC on #2 cyl)..."Dwell" should ...

durn it all--I've got correct Corvair 'back ends' that have the plastic part (that broke..) BE SURE TO CHECK the 'new' alternator to see if the "fan" blades are the right ones,they're "backwards" to everything else !!

not really J--the Dr's found (and removed..) the remaining "head bump" for a second time last mid-November, which left me walking and talking 'funny'..Friends say I'm getting better but it's not fast enough for me!! Anyhow, I've got a new person to pass everything on to (at least what's in my head..)

....I'm back (sort of..)- after retiring ,and turning 65 , I (sort of) figured this Forum out

My plan is to get a better cam, go dual exhaust, polish the heads and get a harmonic balancer. Do you think the roller gear would be a benefit to this build up? What types of troubles do they have? How much of an investment is it? IMHO, for a 'stock' 95hp I'd get a cam with a new gear properly ...

stumbled on this; one may want to look at the "Mustang-II" parts, the spindles are about 1/2" taller at the Upper/Lower balljoints, with the upper BJ location on the spindle "in" further but Michael could probably re-machine and locate the BJ location easy..the lower control arms between the ...

I've got a 'reversed' Corvair PP now to bolt to the bolted flywhl from Ken Hand-who mentioned that the older Chevy in-line 6 PP would work with the starter ring welded on,probably would've been cheaper?!..Ken also now understands the 'adapter' I want to go between the Corvair bellhsg and big-car ...

since my surgery (April 2013) everything went back-burner even further; I've managed to fix- I hopr- the trans leak,and now have the diff inside to replace the axle seals (the other leak-point),then bolt them back together..I'm still 'looking at' getting a 2GC carb rebuilt to get the 4.3 to run out ...

yup,error loading and can't find server..it usually has happened when Royce does his 'thing' in the past; wish he would post a warning 24hrs ahead...

Front is Corvette C5 with a Mustang 2 steering rack -the rack is stock but the front corvette suspension cross member is narrowed about 5 inches to account for the narrower Corvair track width versus Corvette. I added mount points to the corvair front frame rails to bolt the corvette front end in ...

..I haven't been on here in a while,but---in looking at the pics of your crank on 1st page, the PILOT BUSHING is way out too far!! It may be 'different' from being coupled to a stock Corvair, but if it's a "stock" bushing, it SHOULD BE driven in further,almost 1/8", below flush from the crank hub..