140 hp engine?

[cshettler]

I have a 140hp engine that is locked up. Can I put the heads on any 110 hp engine? Or should I just rebuild it.

[66vairguy]

I'd tear down the 140 first to find out whats wrong with it. Then you can post for opinions.

Yes you can put 140 heads on a 110.

It's difficult to make practical suggestions without knowing what your plans are for the car or your budget and skill levels.

Bottom line - Used 140 heads usually need new deep seats and guides installed at a minimum if you plan on keeping the car. If your budget is limited and you have a good running 110 then just install it as is.

[cshettler]

I have a good machine shop that I use. The engine is locked up due to water. This is for a sandrail. I have two 150hp engines. I wanta carburated 140hp. I bought a locked up engine as well as 3 110hp engines. Skill level is moderate novice. I have lots of tools and access to lots more. Any direction would be great. I have 1000$ to put into a build with what I have.

[bbodie52]

The 110 hp and 140 hp engines utilize the same camshaft.

The 140 hp heads can bolt on to any 1965-1969 110 hp engine. The outside diameter of the 1964 110 hp cylinder barrels are smaller (3-3/4" vs. 3-13/16" in 1965-1969 heads) and will not fit the 140 hp heads properly. You can consider transferring the 140 hp heads AND 140 hp cylinder barrels into a 1964 110 hp engine to maintain a proper fit.

[64powerglide]

Maybe a better explanation of what you mean by being "locked up due to water" will help someone figure out what you need to do.

[66vairguy]

I don't want to sound negative, but a correct engine rebuild, even if you do most of the assembly, can run into the thousands of dollars. That said I rebuild close to new as I can get. Many just install new crank bearings and lightly hone the cylinders and install new rings and put the heads on. If you just want something that runs for awhile in a sand rail that's fine, but it's not a "rebuild", it's a repaired engine. Heads must be rebuilt by a Corvair head specialist if you want them done correctly. Typically $300 - $500 a head depending on work required and area you are in. If the head seats and guides are O.K., then you can take you chances and run them as is.

The 110 crank was NOT nitrided like the 140 or 180 engine cranks. BOTH have the same strength, but the nitrided crank has a very thin hardened bearing surface (nitrided) for longer wear. If you have to have a 140 crank cut 0.010" then the hardening is GONE.

I could tell some great stories about so called "rebuilt" engines that were a mess, but ran.

Davemotohead has some even better stories of "frankenmotors" he's taken apart that someone had worked on.

Do what works for you, but if you sell the vehicle later please don't pass off a "repaired" engine as a true "rebuilt".

[cshettler]

Head work is not going to be the problem. So the 1200$ would only get me a repaired engine. Got it, so check numbers on 110 and mount 140 heads to it seems the way to go. It is just a spare engine. I have two low miles 150 turbo engines I am running right now. I have always wanted a 140 hp and wanted to rebuild myself but it seems I need some more cash$

[cshettler]

I will take pics to show you what I am dealing with as well as application. I am a vw guy so this is all new to me and I really appreciate all the help I can get.

[Tom Z]

the 'block' and it's cam may be the same,but just swapping the heads won't get you a "140" engine, the distrib also has a diiferent advance to it..so, besides the 'nitride' hardening of the crank,the '140' heads AND the '140' distrib would be needed-110hp's use the '319' but a 140hp uses a '330' with a different vac advance too..

[66vairguy]

the 'block' and it's cam may be the same,but just swapping the heads won't get you a "140" engine, the distrib also has a diiferent advance to it..so, besides the 'nitride' hardening of the crank,the '140' heads AND the '140' distrib would be needed-110hp's use the '319' but a 140hp uses a '330' with a different vac advance too..

Good info. He says he has a "locked up" 140 engine so hopefully he has the correct distributor to use.

While on the subject - the 140 pressure plate is heavier than a 110 so that should be moved over. With the bigger valves 140HP low RPM grunt off idle is less than a 110HP so the heavier pressure plate inertia gives the impression of a snappier transition when letting the clutch out from a stop. The down side is the heavier PP slows engine revs a little. That's why track racers use lightened PP/flywheel assemblies to maximize engine acceleration between gears and drag racers use a heavier PP/flywheel assemblies for better "launch" off the line.

Sometimes the supporters of either get a little obsessed with which is better.

Bottom line - in everyday driving the heavier 140 PP gives a nice feel when starting out from a stop, less engine revving and slipping of the clutch. In a light dune buggy the 100 PP might be better.

[cshettler]

This is what I got. The engine sat out side many years. I didnt want to see it go to waste. I have a good running 150hp turbo engine that I am taking back to stock. I have a 110hp engine that I want to transfer everything that is good to the 110hp engine. It is going in the blue buggy.I will not be using the clutch or pressure plate from the corvair.

[cshettler]

More pics. The pink buggy is a 150hp turbo corvair.

[Joe B]

Better stock up on PB Blaster!

[cshettler]

Havent had problems with bolts not coming out yet.

[66vairguy]

An "outside" engine is always a mystery until you dismantle it.

If water got down in the manifold there could be severe corrosion. Pull the heads and see what the gasket and chamber areas look like. Don't be surprised if the valves are corroded in the guides, don't force them. Maybe you'll get lucky.

[cshettler]

Wont know till this weekend. The intake had a couple bags over it. We will see with more pics to come.