Removing transmission mounts on a 64

[AZScott]

I just bolted up my ’64 engine in my early Corvair. I noticed that the forward transmission mount on the driver side appears to be bad. So,,, it looks like I will be replacing both mounts. (These are the pair of transmission mounts that attach to the bracket behind the transmission that hold the front of the engine up.) These mounts look tricky to remove since the forward bolts on them are in extremely tight to the body panel. I would like to do this without lowering the suspension sub frame or removing the engine again. I am wondering if anyone has any tricks up their sleeve on how to do this?

One thought I had would be to lower the front of the engine, say 4 to 5 inches, and remove the back seat and cut a small hole so I can get a socket in there. I may have clearance on the passenger side to get a wrench in that I would bend at 90 degrees, but the driver side is very close and I may need a hole cut to get access to the top of the bolt.
I would be interested in any suggestions. Thanks.

[bbodie52]

Just published recently...

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Easy way to access forward nut on left side early model transmission mount
Fri Jul 20, 2018 4:02 pm

The Left side transmission mount bolt on an early model car is about impossible to access in order to change the mount. Access to this bolt pretty much means lowering the rear suspension crossmember along with lowering at least the front of the transaxle. Here is a solution I used this week that is a lot easier.

I lowered the front of the transaxle enough to allow removal of the transmission end mounts. We then cut a 2" hole from under the rear seat behind the Left heater distributor duct. This required removing the seat base and folding seat back for access and then removing the left side under seat heater duct. To locate the position of the bottom of this hole I used a die grinder with a pointy tip to grind a small hole in the vertical steel panel behind the seat. I did this from under the floor where I could see that I was making this hole even with the suspension crossmember just in front of the forward nut of the L trans mount. ( you could likely do this with a punch or a drill at an angle as well....all you need is a mark you can see from the inside of the panel so you know where to place the bottom center of the 2" hole you will cut.) I then went inside the car and marked a 2" circle with my mark as the bottom center of the 2" circle. I then drilled and ground out this 2" circle. Wow perfect access to the hidden nut:) After changing the mount I Installed a 2" plug in the hole sealed With a little seam sealer just to be sure it was leak free. I was unable to locate a 2" plastic Caplug (I think a 2" plastic plug similar to the type used at the Steering box adjustment access would be ideal), so I used a 2" diameter metal plug I found at the hardware store for now. Took a lot less effort than dropping the crossmember far enough to access the nut. If you rotate these photos 90 degrees right they will be oriented correctly...dang I-phone ( they display perfectly in the computer.







Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

If one mount has failed, it might be best to replace both. Also check the condition of the rear engine mount...


http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... &page=167A


http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... N&page=160


Engine and transaxle mounts are addressed on pages 6A-17 and 6A-18 of the attached 1961 Chevrolet Corvair Shop Manual - Section 6a - Engine.

NEVER JACK UP THE REAR OF YOUR CORVAIR BY PLACING A JACK UNDER THE DIFFERENTIAL. DOING SO PLACES STRESS ON THE ENGINE AND TRANSMISSION MOUNTS THAT THEY WERE NEVER DESIGNED TO SUPPORT!

1965 Corvair - DO NOT LIFT HERE!

[AZScott]

Thanks Brad, Yes I plan to replace both with new ones from Clarks, and I ordered them yesterday. I hadn’t seen that earlier post from terribleted. It looks like my plan to cut a hole for access to the top of the forward side transmission mount has precedence and is the way to go. Thanks again.

[vairsquared]

I have done this job twice by finding an old cheapie wrench in my box, heating it and bending it to a 90 degree shape. Then you can slip it up into the space and hold the bolt head while yo remove the bottom nut of the mount. No floor cutting involved.

[64powerglide]

I did the same as vairsquared with an old Crafstman box end, worked very easy.

[terribleted]

I have a number of 90 degree bent wrenches. I have not found a way to get on the left forward mount nut without lowering the suspension crossmember some. 90 degree wrench works great on all late models and the r side on earlies.

[64powerglide]

It can be done, I also put the new bolts down through the hole with the nuts on the bottom. My old ones had the nuts on top.

[wbabst]

I am in the same boat, my mounts are bad on my 61 Lakeside. I have bent my wrench 90 degrees and was able to loosen the bolts but not get it off. The bolts are just so rusted that they seized up trying to get it off. Since I can get 3 of the 4 out when I have a good weekend I am going to put her up in the air and put a box end on one I cant and start drilling it. Starting small and working up till I can chisel nut off. I haven't gotten my lift yet so this will be an on my back job but one that needs to be done. Already have new hardware and mounts waiting.