12v keyed source please just point.

[frez]

Hi everyone. Ok here is a picture of my main harness which of this group is the ignition wire I should splice into for my electric choke. 12v when key turned. I just cant tell.

[Jerry Whitt]

Not sure why an electric choke would be wanted. Seems like you would be adding complications to a simple system that usually works pretty good.

[bmwtodd1]

This is a great opportunity for you to obtain a test light. In future endeavors it is just a very valuable tool. Grounding the lead on the tester, and putting the point into the connectors will help you with this question. On point to think about though, an electric choke is in a sense like a toaster, drawing continual current. Whether it is in operation or not, using a relay that is triggered off of the start circuit would be a smarter choice, allowing the relay/choke to only be energized during startup. The oil pressure circuit would be an even better source, because it stays on just a little longer than the start circuit. There are many articles out there and here that talk this issue for you. First of all, help yourself out, buy a test light and learn how to use it. Best of luck...

[b74eqcm]

Ummmm, maybe I'm looking at this wrong, but if you remove power from the electric choke, won't it re-close after a bit when the element cools off and choke a warm engine? I always thought electric chokes need power all the time the engine is running. They don't draw very much power. And adding relay or additional switches just adds more things to go wrong.

Jim

[64powerglide]

I think he meant when the key is in the on position not the starting position.

[frez]

I think he meant when the key is in the on position not the starting position.

Correct. The instructions say tap into a keyed 12v supply. I have been trying to find one with the multimeter and shop/assembly manuals. But no luck figuring which one would work. I was hoping someone already did this.

[bbodie52]

If you trace the switched ignition wire back from the coil (20 B/Y), past the resistor wire (20 W/R/B), you will see it is connected to a 20 B/P (20 Gauge Black with Pink Stripe) wire on the firewall side of the multi-connector. Tracing it back all the way to the wiring harness inside the car you will find it becomes a slightly thicker 18 B/P wire, and leads to a wiring harness junction point that is fed ultimately by a thicker 14 B/P switched power source at the ignition switch. (Each time the wire gauge thickens, it is provided more current-handling capacity as more circuits are added to the mix).

If you tap into the 20 B/P wire at the firewall side of the multi-connector, you will have a 12 VDC switched power source that is controlled by the ignition key, providing power when the key is ON. If your add-on choke control is a low-current, short duration power load, it should not over-tax the circuit that would feed both the coil and the choke control circuit.

If your choke device needed continuous, unswitched 12 VDC you could pick that up at the point where the thick 12R (12 Gauge Red) secondary wire from the battery positive terminal meets the junction connector near the battery.

Left-click on each image to enlarge for better viewing...

1965-1969 Corvair Engine Compartment Wiring Harness Multi-pin Connector.jpg (33.79 KiB) Viewed 1071 times

[frez]

Black with a pink stripe on the firewall side of the harness I have that one. My elec choke is the one from clarks. Thank you brad that you saved me a lot of trial and error