Help with replacing brake lines

[Ernwindsor]

It's time to do this but I am not sure how to go about it! . Can you replace the front lines without dropping the gas tank I read that you can but you got to get it aligned and it's hard to do . Could someone outline the steps to do front to rear lines thanks Ern

[bbodie52]

I wrote some comments regarding your brake system following your first post. Here are some other comments that may prove useful...

viewtopic.php?f=84&t=7974&p=53618&hilit ... nes#p53618

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=7971&p=53502&hilit ... nes#p53502

viewtopic.php?f=55&t=6226&p=42466&hilit ... nes#p42466

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=5422&p=36735&hilit ... nes#p36735

I've attached the section of the shop manual that applies to Corvair brakes...

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 5 - BRAKES.pdf

1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual - SECTION 5 - BRAKES

(4.6 MiB) Downloaded 53 times

[JP_REX]

I can only speak to the front lines that I recently replaced on my 67, which are a bit different since the 67 has a two-circuit braking system. I think it might be possible to replace the driver's side front line with the tank installed, but I seriously doubt you could replace the passenger's side front line without dropping the tank. I would suggest dropping the tank even if you only have to do the driver's side - dropping the tank isn't that big of a deal. I believe the hassle of trying to fish the line through would be greater than the hassle of removing/replacing the tank.

I really dreaded dropping the tank due to a terrible experience doing it 20 years ago, however, I learned some tricks from this and the other forum which made the task much quicker and easier. When I dropped and reinstalled the tank last month (to replace both brake lines and the speedo cable), it was a pretty quick and painless task.

Getting the tank out is fairly straightforward, though it's a little tricky to find the orientation at which it will drop out. Putting the tank back in is not bad at all if you follow these tips:
1) Install the filler neck first using the body grommet to hold it loosely in place (i.e. don't "snap" the grommet into the body at this point, just use it to keep the filler neck from dropping)
2) Lubricate the vent tube and the filler neck ends prior to installing the tank. This makes it easier to slip the hoses on after the tank is in position. I used hand soap for the lubricant.
3) Install the hoses onto the tank and tighten the lower hose clamps before installing the tank. Align the two upper hose clamps so that you can access them through the hole in the left front wheel well, and tighten them just enough so that they won't move.
4) Once you have the tank up in place but with the strap bolts still loose so the tank can move, align and push the filler neck and vent tubes into the hoses on the tank. Tighten the hose clamps through the wheel well opening.

You definitely want to have replacement hoses and hose clamps on hand. A new body grommet and new tank hangers are a good idea too.

With the tank out, replacing the brake lines is quite easy. I was surprised, however, that I had to bend the pre-bent lines a bit to get them centered in the holes in the body and aligned with the mating fittings. I suppose the tolerances from one car to the next are so great that one size pre-bent can't fit all.

Think about replacing the speedo cable while you're in there. It runs adjacent to the driver's side brake line, so it's easy to get to while the tank is out.

Good luck!

John