Overheated

[Jake]

I took my 65 Corsa Convertible for a ride today.
After I took it out of storage I wasn't sure if my thermistor was working properly. Last year normal operating temp was around 390.
This year it warms up, the gauge moves but hasn't gotten past 200.
Its a 65 Corsa convertible that used to have a turbo 180 but now has a 110.
I've owned it for 2 years, put around 4 thousand miles on it and haven't had a single problem.

so driving for about 45 minutes and I started to smell a burning smell, enough to get my attention but not enough to make me suspect it was coming from my car, no emergency lights and my temp gauge read 200.
While pulling away from a stop sign I noticed the engine didn't sound right and pulled over. Sure enough the fan belt was off and there was a very light smoke coming out of the engine.
I replaced the belt, let it rest for about a half hour and when I restarted it, it started and run just fine.

I know I need to fix my warning lights, though they both work when the key is in Acc or start so those issues aren't at the dash.

Do you guys follow any specific procedure after overheating?
I replaced the belt probably 2 miles from my house and it ran fine on the way home but....

I'm planning on changing the oil and filter in the near future.
The belt that came off looked a little frayed but it only had about a thousand miles on it. The one before lasted years.

[66vairguy]

With some luck you may have no issues. Changing the oil and filter is a good idea.

Recently someone posted about the Clark's fan belts stretching and breaking. I had the same issue last year. Clark's posted they have gone to a newer/better fan belt.

Keep in mind fan belts do degrade from age, just like tires.

I've had great luck with the Gates 3V560 (wrapped automotive style). Dave W. likes the Bando 3V560, but he said Calif. Corvair no longer has them. A buddy in my club says he gets the Bando 3V560 from Granger (online hardware) and likes them.

Let us know if you have the external regulator/alternator, or the internal regulator alternator. Then folks can advise on why the GEN/FAN lamp is not working when the belt fails.

[Jake]

Its got an alternator but I'm not sure how its wired up.

[Jake]

There are Gates 3VX560 Belts for sale on Amazon. The reviews say it's perfect for the 65 Corvair.


The belt that just went south was from Clarks, it had at most 1000 miles on it.
I check the tension every time I take it out and thought it could have been just the littlest bit too tight but wasn't really sure.

I've had lots of old cars over the years but this is my first corvair.
This is the first bit of trouble I've had.
The car is fantastic.

[Nashfan]

I took my 65 Corsa Convertible for a ride today.
After I took it out of storage I wasn't sure if my thermistor was working properly. Last year normal operating temp was around 390.
This year it warms up, the gauge moves but hasn't gotten past 200.
Its a 65 Corsa convertible that used to have a turbo 180 but now has a 110.
I've owned it for 2 years, put around 4 thousand miles on it and haven't had a single problem.

so driving for about 45 minutes and I started to smell a burning smell, enough to get my attention but not enough to make me suspect it was coming from my car, no emergency lights and my temp gauge read 200.
While pulling away from a stop sign I noticed the engine didn't sound right and pulled over. Sure enough the fan belt was off and there was a very light smoke coming out of the engine.
I replaced the belt, let it rest for about a half hour and when I restarted it, it started and run just fine.

I know I need to fix my warning lights, though they both work when the key is in Acc or start so those issues aren't at the dash.

Do you guys follow any specific procedure after overheating?
I replaced the belt probably 2 miles from my house and it ran fine on the way home but....

I'm planning on changing the oil and filter in the near future.
The belt that came off looked a little frayed but it only had about a thousand miles on it. The one before lasted years.

Normal operating temperatures on a 110 are usually a good 40 degrees lower than what you were seeing, but now that the head temperature gauge only reads 200, its time to get either another thermistor or a new gage or both, because 200 is reading way too low, especially when a fan belt dies!. I think you have crud in the cylinder heads and or casting flash. You'd be surprised at how quick mice can make homes inside the fan shroud!!

[SpyderMan]

I bet you are ok as well I have had a few cases just like yours over the years and not had any lasting damage. Fingers crossed

[Jake]

I took my 65 Corsa Convertible for a ride today.
After I took it out of storage I wasn't sure if my thermistor was working properly. Last year normal operating temp was around 390.
This year it warms up, the gauge moves but hasn't gotten past 200.
Its a 65 Corsa convertible that used to have a turbo 180 but now has a 110.
I've owned it for 2 years, put around 4 thousand miles on it and haven't had a single problem.

so driving for about 45 minutes and I started to smell a burning smell, enough to get my attention but not enough to make me suspect it was coming from my car, no emergency lights and my temp gauge read 200.
While pulling away from a stop sign I noticed the engine didn't sound right and pulled over. Sure enough the fan belt was off and there was a very light smoke coming out of the engine.
I replaced the belt, let it rest for about a half hour and when I restarted it, it started and run just fine.

I know I need to fix my warning lights, though they both work when the key is in Acc or start so those issues aren't at the dash.

Do you guys follow any specific procedure after overheating?
I replaced the belt probably 2 miles from my house and it ran fine on the way home but....

I'm planning on changing the oil and filter in the near future.
The belt that came off looked a little frayed but it only had about a thousand miles on it. The one before lasted years.

Normal operating temperatures on a 110 are usually a good 40 degrees lower than what you were seeing, but now that the head temperature gauge only reads 200, its time to get either another thermistor or a new gage or both, because 200 is reading way too low, especially when a fan belt dies!. I think you have crud in the cylinder heads and or casting flash. You'd be surprised at how quick mice can make homes inside the fan shroud!!

I’ve never expected the cylinder head temp gauge to be accurate, more of an “everything’s fine” to “oh shit” gauge


Having said that the last few months of never getting higher def concerned me.
I have no reason to believe I’ve got any nests or stuff under the shroud.
The engine over heated because the fan belt broke.
Though I will be looking under the shrouds soon.

[66vairguy]

There are Gates 3VX560 Belts for sale on Amazon. The reviews say it's perfect for the 65 Corvair.


The belt that just went south was from Clarks, it had at most 1000 miles on it.
I check the tension every time I take it out and thought it could have been just the littlest bit too tight but wasn't really sure.

I've had lots of old cars over the years but this is my first corvair.
This is the first bit of trouble I've had.
The car is fantastic.

BEWARE of Amazon sales. Gates makes SEVERAL versions of the 3V560 and only one is rated for automotive use and the part number is Gates 93326560 . See https://www.gates.com/us/en/search.p.93 ... 06560.html

I usually order through the local auto parts store since they only sell the Gates "automotive belt".

[66vairguy]

Its got an alternator but I'm not sure how its wired up.

Take a good picture of the rear of the alternator (were the wires are) and post it and we can tell you if it is original style, or upgraded internal regulator style.

The internal regulator style is so popular on GM cars of the era a number of companies sell two plugs to place on the wiring and you are good to go. No rewiring on an LM required. Only issue with a Corvair is the fan/pulley and front mounting housing that must come off the original Corvair alternator and be installed on the 10SI Delco internally regulated alternator.

[tomkeo]

I can assure you that the 3VX560 is the best belt to use on your Corvair. I have run that belt to 7500 rpm repeatedly at Bonneville without a single failure. I wasn't aware that the 3VX560 belt was available as automotive use only. I buy mine from NAPA and it says "Industrial Belt" right on the label. Make sure you adjust the retainers so that they are no more than 1/16" from the pulley and pre-load the belt so that it's tight.
One way to check your thermistor is to remove the wire and check the resistance from the terminal to ground. I have tested many thermistors this way and also in a oven up to 400 deg. On a NOS sensor, the resistance is around 6,000 ohms. If your device measures anywhere from 5,000 to 7,000 ohms, its' probably OK. In case you're interested, the resistance at 400 deg. should be between 180 and 200 ohms.

TomKeo

[Frank DuVal]

I emailed Gates technical assistance for an answer. The online website does list a 3V560 Super HC V Belt
and then the same description but in parenthesis Automotive Sleeved. They have the same UPC number, but different Gates part numbers and several other specifications are off by a slight amount, like customer packaging is 10 for automotive and 50 for the other.

I'll post answer I get.

I've bought 3V560 (and other brands, not always Gates) from industrial suppliers over the years. I also still have a stack of Clark's older C5790..... And couldn't figure out why I kept getting belt dust on my engines....

[66vairguy]

The "3V560" is a basic belt designation for size and there are other variations of that "size" that affect what the belt will do. It gets COMPLICATED as the amount of flexibility and friction coefficent often conflict with each other and there is the amount of power the belt consumes (efficiency).

The Corvair is a bit of an issue since only about 90 degrees of the belt contact the generator/alternator pulley. There are belts that will maintain a higher load, but have less contact friction at the pulley.

Anyway --- I AM NOT A BELT EXPERT so I only go by what works for me. The Gates "automotive sleeved" belt doesn't leave "dust" all over my LM engine and I've never had one break or come off with rev's to about 5,000 RPM.

Keep in mind the fan belt is a maintenance item and needs to be changed if it gets "hard" or brittle. How long will one last (miles vs. age) I'm not sure.

[Jake]

Right now I don’t have the time to do any testing of my thermistor.
My alternator has 2 wires.
I’m checking all the wiring connections I can easily reach and the single spade connector by the firewall that I think goes to the thermistor was loose and a bit dirty.
I cleaned it up and reconned it and this weekend I’ll take a closer look.



Thanks for all the belt info too, very useful.

[66vairguy]

My alternator has 2 wires.

Thanks for all the belt info too, very useful.

BOTH the external or internal alternators should have THREE wires. Main power (big wire) and two wires at plug-in connector on alternator. You might have a "ONE WIRE" setup that nothing buy problems as discussed on forums numerous times.

Anyway ----- PLEASE post a picture to get any useful information.

[Frank DuVal]

I got the answer from Gates on the Industrial vs Automotive part numbers for the 3V560 Super HC belt. Only the cardboard sleeve is different!

[Jake]

So getting back to this "overheated" subject.

I finally got around to testing my thermister, and incredibly I did not have one. The previous owner just plugged some kind of ambient temperature thermometer that was just grounded in the engine bay into the wire from the gauge. I'd noticed this little block by the firewall but figured I'd get around to figuring out what it was.

When I first got the car last summer the cyl head temp gauge consistently went up to around 390 once the car was warmed up and this summer after getting it out of storage it would just go to around 220.

My idiot light also didn't work....and as I noted in the OP, it overheated once I slipped the belt
So last week I was working in Western mass and I stopped by Clarks.

So I removed the lower shroud, drilled a hole for the wire and really had trouble screwing the Vairtech thermister with the adapter into the head.

Those of you who have used the new replacement from Clarks...have you had any issue with screwing them in?
The instructions have about a thousand warnings about over tightening it.
I think I might need to tap the hole and maybe that the reason why there's no thermister in there

I'll mention again the car was originally a 180 turbo Corsa convertible and now has a 65 110 PG that runs like a top.

So thats the real question..
any of you that have used the Vairtech thermister with the adapter in a 110...no problems screwing them in?