The inevitable happened.

[bbodie52]

Got the car up and running again today, but it kept throwing the fan belt off and finally broke it. It was just an autozone belt that clearly was not the same style, but I remember my 63 having an automatic tensioner with a spring going to the back of the car on it and this car doesn't. does anyone know where I can get another one of these? I'll be ordering the correct belts from clarks tonight.

Once a fan belt flips any attempt to reuse it — even if it looks OK — will likely fail. When the belt flips, the stress of riding up over the pulley retaining grooves often causes internal damage to the belt that may not be visible when inspecting the belt from the outside. Some of the internal tensile cords may break or may otherwise be weakened, which leaves the belt looking as if it were physically intact, when it is actually much weaker internally. For that reason, a drive belt that has flipped should be replaced. Most Corvair owners realize that it is a good idea to carry a spare belt in the trunk for roadside emergencies. I would recommend that you order two belts from Clark's Corvair Parts so that you will have a spare.

Motor Drive Belts

On today's vehicles, it's very difficult to tell the difference between the automotive drive belt with 50,000 miles of wear, and another belt with 10,000 miles of wear. A basic change in engine belt construction – one that produced a longer-lasting belt – also makes it difficult to spot indications of belt wear.

Virtually all automotive drive belts produced in the U.S. and Europe are made without a cover. These "bandless" belts don't show wear like their predecessors. Although bandless belts are designed to outlast banded belts on similar drives they provide no early warning of failure.

There are two main causes of drive belt failure. The most common is fatigue of the load-bearing, tensile cords leading to belt failure from the inside out. Tensile cord failure is due to a gradual weakening of the tensile cords that results from the combination of side stress, bending stress, and centrifugal force imposed on the belt as it travels around the pulleys.

Because this type of failure takes place inside the belt, there is no easy way to determine when the belt is about to break. Statistics show that the chance of drive belt failure on an average vehicle goes up sharply after four years.

For this reason, many drive belt manufacturers recommend that all engine drive belts be replaced on a four-year basis.

The other major cause of drive belt failure is improper tension. This causes the belt to slip as it travels around the pulleys, generating heat build-up. Excessive heat eventually causes the rubber compounds in the belt to break down, and crack, leading to belt failure.

Indicators of belt tension problems include:

• Belt squeal, especially on the fan or power steering drives.
• Battery discharge sometimes caused by a slipping alternator belt.
• Excessive sidewall wear that allows the belt to ride lower than normal in the pulley grooves.
• Absences of overcord (the belt's top protective covering).
• Excessive cracking, or rib chunking (pieces of the ribs breaking off).

In addition, small engine compartments on today's vehicles make belts more susceptible to heat and contamination from petroleum products. High temperatures can cause belts to dry, harden and crack. If a belt becomes oil-soaked, it cannot grip the pulley. Petroleum products also break down the rubber compounds in the belt. The best way to check belt tension is with a tension gauge. Because of smaller engine compartments and shorter belt spans between pulleys, the old finger deflection method of checking tension is not as accurate. http://arrc.ebscohost.com/ebsco_static/ ... _BELTS.htm

Note that the discussion above of the cause of internal belt fatigue refers to the normal stresses involved with a standard belt configuration in which the belt travels around pulleys that are all in one plane. Even a serpentine belt installation with a complex path follows pulleys that are all in a single alignment with each other, so the belts usually are not required to make a 90 degree turn — which is not the case with a Corvair belt layout — so the internal stresses on the Corvair belt are made even greater than the normal design expectation of belt design engineers by the unique Corvair drive belt that drives both a generator/alternator AND a cooling fan, AND makes a 90 degree turn in the process! The load-bearing fatigue factors in a Corvair installation are likely even greater than a normal vehicle installation because of the unique configuration in a Corvair engine. This would make the routine four-year replacement of the belt on a Corvair even more applicable in a Corvair application. The final comment about increased heat found in compact, modern engine compartments would also apply to the high ambient heat usually expected in the air-cooled Corvair engine compartment.

I am not convinced of the value of the various automatic tensioners that have been marketed for Corvairs. One of the greatest advances made by engineers on the Corvair for increasing belt longevity was the switch to the lightweight magnesium cooling fan that was introduced in 1964. Prior to that year the cooling fans used on the Corvair were much heavier steel construction. This heavy fan design acted like a flywheel. In the normal course of driving engine speeds vary frequently – especially when shifting years – and the heavy cooling fan would resist changes in crankshaft pulley speed. The fan belt would have to endure the stresses as the crankshaft pulley changing rotational speed and the cooling fan continually resisting those changes. The introduction of the lightweight magnesium cooling fan greatly reduced fan belt stress.

Do not over-tighten the belt. A properly tensioned belt would allow you to rotate the generator or alternator pulley with one finger (proper tension will allow the pulley to slip against the belt friction resistance). A belt that is too tight will not allow the alternator/generator pulley to rotate when pressure is applied to the alternator/generator fan with one finger. If the belt is too tight loosen the idler pulley fasteners and re-tension the belt. A properly positioned belt guide at the idler pulley will have about 1/16 inch clearance when everything is secured. The belt guide to the right of the blower fan pulley should be adjusted for a similar clearance.

[God.favored]

Unless you are racing or routinely shifting at engine rpm redline, a spring tensioner is not needed. The proper belt, properly adjusted, with guides in place, rarely ever fails. Before installing a new belt, check the blower bearing, alternator bearings, and idler bearings. Make sure they all spin freely with no noise, binding, or slop. Inspect the harmonic balancer for cracks in rubber or if the outer ring has slipped. If all is well with these, install new belt, tighten it a little less than you want to, and drive.

Jim

Good to know! Thanks for the info. Is there a guide somewhere for setting proper belt tension. I just got it as tight as I could and tightened it down. I guess that explains why the belt broke.

[bbodie52]

Do not over-tighten the belt. A properly tensioned belt would allow you to rotate the generator or alternator pulley with one finger (proper tension will allow the pulley to slip against the belt friction resistance). A belt that is too tight will not allow the alternator/generator pulley to rotate when pressure is applied to the alternator/generator fan with one finger. If the belt is too tight loosen the idler pulley fasteners and re-tension the belt. A properly positioned belt guide at the idler pulley will have about 1/16 inch clearance when everything is secured. The belt guide to the right of the blower fan pulley should be adjusted for a similar clearance.

As indicated in the attached 1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual (page 6-2 and 6-4)...

BLOWER BELT: 55 ± 5 LBS. (Used) 75 ± 5 LBS. (New) Using Strand Tension Gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=a9_sc_1?rh ... 1473195186

from $11.95 and up

[Danny Joe]

Check all the pulleys for rust, it acts like sandpaper on the belt!

[God.favored]

Once a fan belt flips any attempt to reuse it — even if it looks OK — will likely fail. When the belt flips, the stress of riding up over the pulley retaining grooves often causes internal damage to the belt that may not be visible when inspecting the belt from the outside. Some of the internal tensile cords may break or may otherwise be weakened, which leaves the belt looking as if it were physically intact, when it is actually much weaker internally. For that reason, a drive belt that has flipped should be replaced. Most Corvair owners realize that it is a good idea to carry a spare belt in the trunk for roadside emergencies. I would recommend that you order two belts from Clark's Corvair Parts so that you will have a spare.

Wow, sorry I missed that there was a 4th page and didn't even see this post before responding. Great info! thanks!! I ended up ordering 3 belts from california corvairs. Hopefully they're good belts, and since I'm in CA itll be quite a bit faster than ordering through clarks.

As far as the belt tensioner goes I never had belt problems with my 63 that had the tensioner on it, just stuck it on and let it go, guess it just takes knowing how to set the tension without it. Thanks for all the help guys, I'll get it going and let you know what happens. I ordered all new wheel cylinders and hoses at the same time too, so those are up next and then its time to test drive the car. The shifter is a little stiff compared to my spyder but with a little adjustment and some grease it should be good to go.

Time to DRIVE! :)

[God.favored]

Here's a quick video of it up and running. sounds much better when its not starving for fuel!

[God.favored]

Well been a while, keeping busy with a new business I've started up, but theres always time for the corvair :) I installed the new correct slave cylinder. Once I get all the bugs worked out I'll do a complete write up on how to do it. Also have all new shoes, wheel cylinders, spring kits, and brake lines on the way. Already have a new master cylinder so hopefully I'll be able to stop soon.

Thanks for the info on the windshields, got that ordered today. Payed $200 and he will deliver it to my house. not bad considering.

[Steve62]

Really nice work, she's a beauty! Who did your paint?

[God.favored]

Really nice work, she's a beauty! Who did your paint?

Thanks! I did, actually painted it in the garage. Definitely far from perfect but looks good online and from 20+' away. Already put a small scratch in the door by accident letting it fly open to the license plate hanging off my motorcycle :(

[God.favored]

I want a very clean crisp sound but there has to be some pretty serious low end to keep me happy

I have an older pair of arc audio KAR12 Subwoofers. They're dual 4ohm Speakers, 700w peak, 350w rms. Would Like to wire them in parallel and end up with a 1ohm load and a pretty beefy amp.

I'm taking the backseat out of the car, not enough room for any shenanigans anyway, so the subs are going behind the seats, i'm building a 3/4 mdf box (optimum airspace is 1.1 cubic ft per speaker) for them but it will all be covered with a fiberglass shell that wraps up to the bottom edge of the window where i'll be placing my mid range drivers.

this is where I may have some people who tell me I'm crazy. For the Mid's I'm not planning on using a typical car speaker. I'm going to use the AuraSound NS3-193-8A. They are a 20w RMS 80w Peak 7.6ohm speaker (requires .1 cubic ft sealed airspace per speaker) I've used 64 of these wired together in a matroxed system and absolutely fell in love with these speakers! they have an incredible response 80-15kHz. I generally cross them over somewhere between 150 and 180 depending upon my low end. I have 6 of them, 4 are going directly below the rear window facing forward, and one in each door panel along with a tweeter.

I still need a controller that has a crossover, full parametric eq, pan controls, timing controls, and maybe a mixer, I'd like to have a channel for every speaker, but honestly an 8 channel would suffice. I plan on running my RTA when finished and doing an impulse study to adjust each individual speaker and on the back 4 speakers would like to pan the middle left and right speakers only slightly off center while the outsides would be fully left and right.

[Steve62]

I'm kicking around ideas for a system in my '62 sedan. Probably go with a sub cabinet in place of the rear seat, as you're doing, but not as elaborate. I'm considering placing tweeters along the roof rails, behind the new headliner material. I need to test the audio transparency of the material first. Yours should sound awesome!

[God.favored]

I'm kicking around ideas for a system in my '62 sedan. Probably go with a sub cabinet in place of the rear seat, as you're doing, but not as elaborate. I'm considering placing tweeters along the roof rails, behind the new headliner material. I need to test the audio transparency of the material first. Yours should sound awesome!

That sounds like a good option! Have a tweeter in mind that may fit? I might have to mess around with that.

[God.favored]

The windshield came in! Thanks again for the help guys. Makes me want to just get new glass all around Now though. Also got my new backup lenses and the brake shoes and springs. Hopefully installing that tomorrow, finishing up the clutch Wednesday and test driving it before heading out of town for two weeks on Thursday for my brothers wedding. If all goes well I'll be ordering wheels and tires while I'm out of town and will have everything by the time I'm home.

[God.favored]

Well I got the car on the road for the first time last night. Runs well, clutch worked great after a bit of modification, but I'll need to adjust the shift coupler. I could only get it into 1st and second ( I think unless it was 3rd and 4th) that's all easy stuff though. My thing is I've got an oil leak I can't seem to get to stop. I put new valve covers and gaskets on it, the passenger head had a stripped out hole so I tapped it larger and put all new studs and nuts with new steel hold downs. It all looked like it sealed well. I also pulled the oil Pan to put a new gasket on it. It's the steel oil pan, it cleaned off well, and it doesn't look like there are any defects or bends in it. I put it on and torqued it the way it looked like most people here are doing it. 60 inch pounds, cork gasket tightened but didn't deform, still leaked all around the oil pan. I went tighter, like 85lbs. Gasket deformed slightly, but I couldn't see it leaking from the pan anymore. But there is definitely still a leak. I can see it on the bolts for the exhaust manifold. Also a drip on the transmission drain plug. I'm about ready to just pull this thing out again and replace all the gaskets haha.

[God.favored]

Drove her to church this morning about 1.5 miles up the road. Thought to my self, surely I won't need any tools for a mile drive. I was wrong. Threw the fan belt half way there. Oh well beautiful morning for a walk


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

[bbodie52]

You ever know! I purchased my current 1966 Corsa convertible from a classic car dealer in central Florida. I took a bus from Atlanta, Georgia to go to Florida to pick up the car — having only seen it in pictures on the Web. I brought along a small suitcase filled with tools, fan belts, a shop manual, etc. — not knowing what to expect from my "new" Corsa during my 588 mile journey home (North Carolina). I had driven 140 hp Corvairs all over the USA, with several trips coast to coast and heavily loaded with a wife and two kids, luggage, etc. Also drove two 140 hp Corsas in Germany for three years with only one breakdown — a failed right-rear wheel bearing.

Fortunately my newly acquired Corvair did not disappoint when I trusted it to bring me home. I based my trust on past experience, and the 588 miles passed without incident.

It is unusual for a street-driven late model Corvair to flip fan belts. The lightweight magnesium blower and belt guides seem to work very well — with minimal stress on the belt. The belts do fatigue with age and should be replaced every few years as a precautionary measure. It is usually not a good idea to reuse one after it has flipped — even if it looks OK and seems to be intact. Internal damage to the hidden tensile support strands can occur if the belt flips and is forced to ride up over the pulley structure. If a new belt flips it may have stretched with "break-in" mileage and might have needed to be re-adjusted. If you repeatedly have such problems with your Corvair there may be a problem with excessive drag in a faulty fan or idler pulley bearing, or a problem with the alternator bearings. A failing harmonic balancer can also cause belt problems.