A few questions....mechanic has gone AWOL

[Conspiracy]

Hi all,

Still trying to get this '62 Greenbrier moving under it's own steam but been left to my own devices for a bit as my mechanic friend has been busy.

The weather is in sunny Cornwall has left a lot to be desired so a month after receiving the new clutch, pressure plate, input shaft seals, throw out bearing & pilot bushing, all I've managed to do is put the busing in along with the clutch & pressure plate. This weekend looks like good weather so I'd like to get the input shaft seals in & get the engine & trans back together ready for the big reunite!

A couple of thing playing on my mind and being a total novice, could do with some guidance! I have a bolted flywheel but I noticed two of the bolts were not loose, but not as tight as the others.....is this a problem? Should I take the flywheel off and tighten these two? Are they a simple nut & bolt affair? I went to do it but with a socket set, all I was achieving was to undo the crank pulley bolt!

I also need to adjust the rockers as they are very loose. I ordered the 4 hole silicone valve cover gaskets as I knew it wasn't a 6 hole cover.....would you believe, both valve covers are 5 hole and I can't find any info about them!! I presume it's OK just to make a 5th hole in the gasket?

Apart from the uncertainty above, her underside has been protected, new upper ball joints, new shocks, cut coils, new brake shoes/cylinders/hoses, engine to body seals & thoroughly enjoying working on her!

Any tips/advice always appreciated

A few pics

[flat6_musik]

I believe there should be a metal flatwasher type of support deal next to the input shafts seal, if I remember correctly.......keeps the input shaft supported as not to smash the seal. At least my 65 corsa had one. Seems like something you'd not want to forget.

[Conspiracy]

Thanks for the reply flat6....I do have a new retaining clip to go in as well as the old one just fell out!!

Chris

[cnicol]

5-hole covers? Someone got creative. You should be fine with just four bolts; providing they have the long flat spring-bar spreaders under them. Silicone? I haven't tried those. My process for valve covers includes gluing them to the valve covers in advance. Two covers bolted together with an extra gasket for a spacer. I'm not sure how that would work with silicone. Once the gaskets are well glued (overnight), I install to engine without any gasket adhesive. I prefer the cork-nitrile gaskets but others have good results with other materials.

[cnicol]

Re bolted flywheel. Yes, simple nut and bolt affairs on later style clutches. When I bolt early clutches (flat face flywheel, not stepped), I drill and tap the flywheel. Since you are able to see bolt-heads, I'm going to say your's is nut and bolted.

If you take the flywheel off to check the bolts, I recommend making a simple strap (z-shape) to hold the flywheel for torquing. The strap will be about 5" long and will bridge the gap between a starter bolt and a flywheel bolt. The strap holds the flywheel. (reverse for tightening). Use a 6-point socket on the flywheel bolts, apply sealant on bolt threads, don't forget the large 6-hole spacer washer.

[Conspiracy]

Thanks cnicol, I have small spreaders but may see if I can get the longer ones although there didn't appear to be any leaking. Blue silicon gaskets were from Clarks, will give them a go and see how they perform!!!

Appreciate the flywheel info, going to take it off to tighten those two to be safe rather than sorry! I WILL NOT forget the spacer, seen so many posts about THE SPACER!!!

My mechanic friend is coming round next Friday so we'll crack on and hopefully get everything done.

Have a nice weekend and thanks again.

Chris

[Conspiracy]

Sorry to be a pain, can anybody let me know what torque the bolts for the flywheel should be. I have pressure plate at 20, flywheel to crank at 40-50 but can't find the figure for the bolted flywheel bolts as two of mine are not tight.

Thanks in advance.

Chris

[cnicol]

The bolts I have on hand for flywheel bolting are 1/4-28, Grade 8. If that's what's in your flywheel, the correct torque is 10 ft-lb lubricated and 14 ft-lb dry.

[cnicol]

The bolts I have on hand for flywheel bolting are 1/4-28, Grade 8. If that's what's in your flywheel, the correct torque is 10 ft-lb lubricated and 14 ft-lb dry. http://www.americanboltcorp.com/tech/techtorque.pdf

[Conspiracy]

Cnicol.....that's a a great document and will be a massive help, thanks very much yet again