Dave – Is that the one that uses the shock mounting holes in the LCA? That was what I was going to Fab! I’ve seen that or another thread (Dave Motohead maybe) that I was going to copy… The tool I borrowed used the shock hole at the top, and had ‘claws’ that clamped the lower spring directly – worked like a charm and took no time to fab…
Alan (GasDaddy) said “The wheels smell”… Yeah, I agree, WTB a nice set of gray or as-cast Torq Thrust or Rocket Ignitor/Salt Flats or old Chevelle/Z28 Rally wheels – I think the natural as-cast or gray wheels would work with the current body color, or Marina Blue if and when I get back to that… Anyone have a nice set they want to let go of? Going to a good home!
Well it has been a while from my last post. Everything takes about 4 times as long as I estimate. In my last post I had the front suspension disassembled and the big parts were off to the blaster. Once I received them back, I decided to prime and paint myself. But, in typical fashion, the Michigan weather was not cooperating. I needed the steel warmer to paint, so I came up with a ‘redneck paint oven”. This allowed me to preheat the steel after cleaning, and bake after paint. I had no problem keeping the box interior at ~120*F! the following shot after prime and topcoat.

- My paint oven...
I needed a set of tools to press the new bushings into the control arms, and found a good thread over at CC -
http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.ph ... 222,402737 - with this guidance I made my own set of tools to do the control arm bushings. I had Home Depot cut the pipe to the correct length and then I split lengthwise with a cut-off wheel…
Worked like a charm. I also borrowed a ball joint press set from O’Reilly’s just to have a variety of spacers. After a lot of small parts clean-up and paint, this is where I’m at…
Still have some odds and ends to finish up on this assembly, but the big parts are done!
As this neared completion I began to look more closely at the brakes. I could not believe the ugly goop that came out of the wheel cylinders and continue to question the condition of the inside of my brake and fuel lines. As I took apart the right rear brake, the short steel tube nut at the hose (section to wheel cylinder) rounded. So now I need to replace this length. To get a feel of the interior condition I split this tube with a Dramel cut off wheel. This is what it looks like.
So, this short section does not look too bad to me! What do you think? As this is the furthest from the master, is it a good sample? Should this be a rusty spot, or the last to rust? There is some sludge in the lines, how do I best flush this? I’m thinking the lines are keepers and I already have Clark’s Dual Master kit to install. Wheel cylinders are soaking now in cleaner.
I’ve picked up a good used Pitman Shaft and Ball Nut (thanks Rafee) and Ken Hand pressed new bushings into my steering gear.
So, over the next week or so I should have my steering gear reassembled and know if I’m replacing the slave cylinders or doing a hone and rebuild… getting closer to my goal of making it steer and stop before I make it go!
As always, more to come…