EDIS Revisited?

[Danny Joe]

I quite agree, Notched! Nothing against the other electronic ignitions, but the reason for going with edis was no distributor, rotary button or distributor cap to wear.

I like the idea of no moving parts rubbing against each other. I also like the cost! I am cheap like Miniman, spend when you have to, save where it doesn't matter!

In that same vein, I can also just leave the old distributor in for the time being, get the modified one later as funds allow.

[DAVECS1]

The fabrication I was alluding to was in your second sentence. I like the EDIS system, don't get me wrong. Just saying you can drop in a distributor and mount a box, as an alternative.

[notched]

There is always an alternative. Miniman had showed me the Black Box that CB Performance markets. It can allow for a programmable ignition with a distributor. But it is also $200 http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDet ... tCode=2013" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
The MSD Power Grid (PN 7730) is almost $400 by itself. MSD also offers the programmable 6AL2 (PN 6530). It does most of the same things that the Power Grid does but it is about $330. Anyway you slice it, to keep a distributor and adding programmable capabilities to it will be a much more expensive proposition.

I made templates of the brackets and spacers I made for my EDIS conversion. I also have a best bud who does CNC cutting so if there were enough demand. I could make some brackets for those who were not capable of fabrication. The trigger wheel came from DIY Autotune.
I made my own distributor plug that incorporates a Hall Effect cam sensor for my EFI conversion.

[Danny Joe]

Hey Notched,

I was just re-reading this topic and saw your mention of DIY Autotune in your last post.
I checked out their website, they have just what I was looking for in trigger wheels and spacers. Other places I looked had trigger wheels, nobody had spacers. They are also one of the few that make stuff for GM products.

I can fab my own brackets for sensor and other mounts, mounting the trigger wheel was the only hold up for me.

[miniman82]

Even if you have no ability to fabricate, it's a simple thing to walk into any machine shop with the pulley/trigger disc in hand and tell them to put the two together. It's just an aluminum plate, one side bolts to the pulley removal tool holes the other gets drilled to hold the trigger. Just make sure it's either adjustable, or you're damn sure it's set right before you go drilling or the indexing between the trigger and sensor will be off. For a 6-cylinder engine, the sensor must be 6 teeth away from the missing tooth.

Here's a good link to study: http://www.dainst.com/info/edis/edis.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

[Danny Joe]

I just bought an EDIS system on Ebay for $89.95, nobody bid against me this week.

If anybody is interested, the seller has another system for auction now, bidding to end next Sunday.

[notched]

Did you get the Megajolt box for $89.95?

[Danny Joe]

No, I still need to get the trigger wheel and spacer from DIY Autotune and the Megajolt. Also the oil filter adaptor. I was making sure I could get this part first, the other parts are readily available.

The seller pulls everything from Fords and auctions them on Ebay one per week.

He gets the trigger wheel, sensor, coil pack, plug wires, ECU and all the harness connectors w/pigtails. I thought it was a good deal for the hassle saved and probably couldn't get it for that price if I pulled it myself.

Somebody ran the bid up last week, but I was the only bidder this week.

[miniman82]

That's a great deal on those parts, you're on your way! Are you planning on going with the American Pi distributor blank-off, or just leaving the stock distributor in place? I made my own stuff from a cut down distributor shaft and some iron pipe welded together, it works good but looks like a hack job. Don't forget the shielded twisted pair wiring you'll need for the SAW and PIP wires, if you don't use the right stuff your signals will be all noisy.

[Danny Joe]

I'm going to leave the distributor in place for now.

I planned on using shielded twisted pair cable.

[notched]

I found Home Depot sells the shielded wire and it is very inexpensive. That is what I have been using on my car and it worked great.

[MikeDTuning]

No complaints with my EDIS set up here. Hardest thing for me was getting the Megajolt to communicate with the laptop via the USB to DB9 adapter. I tried 3 different types and finally realized it was a Windows 8 issue.
I found an older Dell lap top with a DB9 serial plug and Windows 7 for under $150 and was able to communicate right away.
The only people who bash or bad mouth the Megajolt/EDIS conversion are the narrow minded people who have not tried it or do not have the know how to make it work. On my turbo I have seen incredible gains in drivability and performance that would not have been possible with a distributor with mechanical advance and factory style boost retard mechanisms.
With the stock set up I used to have problems with the plugs fouling on hot restarts. It would take a minute or so of driving to get it to smooth out. Since the conversion I have never had the fouling problem.

notched is coorect, EDIS is great, and EDIS 6 is the most common version, so its usually the least money i used a DIYautotune crank trigger wheel, the center bore was the same size as our crank pulley bolt, and you can use the crank pulley puller mounts to permanently lock it in

just make sure you do something to keep your oil pump spinning when you remove the distributer

Megajolt is nice, however i would be VERY tempted to use a low bugjet megasquirt ECU to control EDIS. that way if i ever wanted to go full fuel injection in the future, i would already have the right parts!

out of curiosity, has anybody gotten there tach to work with EDIS?

[Danny Joe]

Miniman covers that in his EDIS conversion: http://www.corvairnut.com/EDIS.htm

Pin 2 on the EDIS module connector drives the Corvair Tachometer.

[miniman82]

I was worried about that because the IDM pin is only a low level (logic?) style signal, it's not supposed to be able to drive old school tachometers but it seems to work just fine. Who knows, maybe mine will burn out in a couple years?

[notched]

My factory tach in my Corsa has been working fine on the #2 pin.

[Danny Joe]

I was reading up on Megajolt and I believe that a temperature sensor will have to be connected to the Aux Input to be used in advance correction. What type of sensor would be best to use?