Looking at my first Corvair. Help!!!

[7lml]

Hi everybody,

I'm new to the forum and looking for a little advise. My wife and I are looking to get our first Corvair and I've found a potential candidate. I'm fairly new to Corvairs but I do have a little experience working on 1964 Monza Spyder Convert for a friend. We loved that car and that's why we would like to find one of our own. I'm also fairly familiar with old cars and have been through a pretty extensive restoration with my '72 Pontiac Lemans.

What we are looking at is a 1967 Corvair Convert, 4-speed car, with the 140 engine. It needs a new top and some details that we can work through over time. But here is what concerns me. The current owner bought the car in May of this year and is selling it because he doesn't want to store it and I think it's become a money pit for him. He says that the paint is starting to bubble on the passenger fender just below the pillars. He also mentioned that it looks like there is some body filler in the same spot and the re-paint was done about 20 years ago. I don't mind replacing fenders and other bolt on body parts but I don't want to get into the same situation as my Lemans where I was cutting out rust and welding in new metal. Especially in the rear quarters and rockers. Is there any other places I should look at for rust or be aware of?

Mechanically he says that clutch chatters a bit and the carbs needs to synced. I'm not too concerned about the carbs but is the clutch something to be concerned about? How hard is it to put a new clutch in?

Here is a link to the ad. We're going to try and take a look at it in the next day or two.
http://stcloud.craigslist.org/cto/4157818656.html

Thank for the help. If this one doesn't pan out we'll be looking for others.

Nathan

[Bowtie Country]

Nathan, I looked at this car 3 weeks ago. It is rough. The front fenders on Corvairs are welded on, not bolted. It has a lot more rust than first appears. The rockers and some of the floor have been replaced and not very well. I also think it has been hit in the front and not straightened well and the front fenders were sectioned on and the bondo is coming loose. My impression is that it will need a major restoration in the near future. It is also missing some of the interior pieces. The seller, Eric, is a really nice guy to talk to and I think he realized he got into much more than he bargained for and is looking to cut his loses. He offered the car to me for $2800. I believe you could get it for $2500 but that is still too much for what it is, in my opinion. Go take a look for yourself but I was rather disappointed when I got there. He made is sound better than it was. You'll have the advantage of this evaluation before hand.

[7lml]

Bowtie,

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of when he mentioned that the fenders have some "mud" in them. If it works out for us to get up there maybe I'll take a look but I don't think that we'll go out of our way. I think this is going to be much more than I want to take on right now. I've been through it before with my Lemans and while I'm happy with the results it can get very expensive quickly. We're looking for something that doesn't have to be the prettiest but is solid and a runner. I don't mind doing some body work (paint) but not major (ie. frame straightening) body work. Oh well, good news is that I won't have to find another place to store a car. Thanks for the feedback.

Nathan

[UNSAFE]

Mechanical work is easy , fairly inexpensive , and somewhat rewarding .

Rust is a PITA and usually terminal .

I would look for a fairly rust free car even if it doesn't run .

[Bowtie Country]

Bowtie,

Thanks, that's what I was afraid of when he mentioned that the fenders have some "mud" in them. If it works out for us to get up there maybe I'll take a look but I don't think that we'll go out of our way. I think this is going to be much more than I want to take on right now. I've been through it before with my Lemans and while I'm happy with the results it can get very expensive quickly. We're looking for something that doesn't have to be the prettiest but is solid and a runner. I don't mind doing some body work (paint) but not major (ie. frame straightening) body work. Oh well, good news is that I won't have to find another place to store a car. Thanks for the feedback.

Nathan

Sounds like you're looking for the same thing I am, but I'm now concentrating on a Corsa convert. If the car had been as nice as he said, it would most likely be sitting in my shop right now. I have 5 muscle cars in various stages of repair and drivability, so a driver Corsa is a must. No time to schedule a restoration for a while. Rust free is the main concern, after that mechanicals and interior.

I'm near St. Paul. What area of the state are you in ?

[azdave]

I would advise againt anything except a 65-66 model if at all possible. After 1966 many changes occurred that make it harder to find correct parts such as interior and trim pieces, door hinges, etc. 65 and 66 Corvairs were produced in much higher numbers than 67-69 Vairs so more spare parts cars are around to act as donors when you do need something.

[bbodie52]

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

By all means, take your time and do your homework! Be prepared to spend a little more for a solid Corvair in sound condition. Rust and body rot can be a huge and sometimes hidden problem in Corvairs (See Pennsylvania Bondo Bucket). viewtopic.php?f=52&t=2512 Convertibles are even more susceptible to body rot making them unsafe to drive and unrepairable. Don't buy someone else's money pit! A DIY shadetree-mechanic can learn to fix almost any mechanical issue, and parts availability for Corvairs is excellent. But body repair on the unibody Corvair means a lot of cutting, fabrication and welding. Except for the hood, rear deck, doors an tunnel cover, nothing is a bolt-on body repair. The convertible Corvair can be seriously weakened by body rot, and northern-tier states, with snow and road salt, have destroyed many Corvairs. Take your time, shop around, be prepared to pay a little more for a quality example, and make your first Corvair purchase an enjoyable experience. Reasonable DIY repairs and maintenance on your first Corvair is one thing, but a major restoration project could become a money pit and a "hanger queen" in your garage, with little enjoyment in being an owner.

Consider joining a local club chapter of CORSA (Corvair Society of America), if one is avaliable in your area. You can learn a lot from other Corvair owners, both on this Forum and through face-to-face contact.

Joining CORSA (Corvair Society of America) -- if you are not already a member -- and a local Corvair club chapter is another good way to see and to learn more about Corvairs. You might check out the CORSA chapter in your area. Contacting a local club and making Corvair-knowledgeable friends can often be a big help.

CORSA (Corvair Society of America) Chapter Locator
Locating a local CORSA chapter near you can be very helpful, and attending meetings, parties, Corvair shows, etc. can greatly add to the enjoyment of your Corvair

NOTE: Information on the CORSA Chapter Locator is generally badly out of date. Names, phone numbers, email addresses, etc. are often inaccurate. Your best bet is to find the nearest club chapter on the list, and then use the chapter website link to move on to the club website. Contact information on the actual club website is often much-more accurate and up to date!
https://www.corvair.org/index.php?optio ... crmSID=3_u

Please keep in touch on the Corvair Forum as you pursue a quest for your first Corvair. Don't get too hung up on a narrow range of Corvairs, such as Corsas and convertibles. Consider the possibility of a nice 4-door sedan and possibly an automatic transmission car. Late-model (1965-1969) Corvairs all have the same suspension and brakes. The two-carburetor 110 hp engine has an excellent reputation, and there is little real-world difference on the street between a Corsa and a Monza in handling, braking, or street power. 4-carburetor 140hp engines can be found in both Corsas and Monzas, with manual or automatic transmissions. So try to keep an open mind, establish a list of what is important, acceptible, or outside your acceptible range. Repairs can be expensive -- especially in bodywork and paint -- so don't skimp on a clean starting point. A good car at a higher cost may be cheaper in the long run than buying a "fixer upper" for a few dollars less.

One comment on the Corvair convertible you are considering... It does have a 140 hp 4-speed powertrain supposedly with four new rebuilt carburetors (verify with receipts, if possible). If the powertrain is in good shape, it might have a value of $600-$1000 or so. Four professionally rebuilt carburetors can sell for $450-$500 on eBay. So if the selling price can be driven down low enough and if it is safe to drive for awhile, it might be considered as a good parts car that can later be stripped and merged with another Corvair with a sound body. The running condition of the powertrain and suspension has some value, as does the Corsa instrument panel.

A good check of the chassis integrity involves unlatching the top, opening the doors, and pressing up and down firmly on the open doors an watching for movement and flexing of the windshield frame as the car v=body is rocked up and down, while using the open doors as a lever. If little motion or flexing is observed, the chassis may be acceptably safe. Look at the floors and door frame areas for serious rust or rot. If the powertrain runs well, and the brakes and suspension seem OK, a low ball price might produce a car that is either restorable or a good parts car with a somewhat rare 140 hp engine and a good transaxle. If the clutch seems to grab or rattles with the engine running while in neutral, the flywheel rivets may be loose or the clutch may need replacement. This means pulling the powertrain and separating the engine from the transaxle (not really that difficult, I did it on my first Corvair by myself when I was sixteen). You could end up with a restorable body, or a good parts donor car. Signs of a worn clutch or serious body rot could help you to drive the price down. In any case, it might be worth a test drive. You might even arrange to have a body shop look at it for a rough estimate and evaluation.

Good luck with your search for the right Corvair for you.

[DT-VAIR]

I'm glad I saw this - I was calling on this car and never received a call back. Another project I wouldn't want to handle at all! Just sold my 65 because it's more of a project than I had time, money and experience for (took a while to accept that fact) but want to get back into one quick. Glad I caught this post before making a long trip up. Knew it was too good of a deal!

[Bowtie Country]

I'm glad I saw this - I was calling on this car and never received a call back. Another project I wouldn't want to handle at all! Just sold my 65 because it's more of a project than I had time, money and experience for (took a while to accept that fact) but want to get back into one quick. Glad I caught this post before making a long trip up. Knew it was too good of a deal!

Go to the members link above and find Jack Bacon. Shoot him a PM about his Corsa for sale. Really nice convert for a fair price.

I tried to include a link to his info but the site keeps dropping that post.

[bbodie52]

Just trying to help... here is the link to Jack Bacon's profile. From there you can send him a PM...

memberlist.php?mode=viewprofile&u=2048

[7lml]

Sorry I'm a little late in replying to this. But I really do appreciate all the help and advice. I just wanted to follow up on a few things.

First, Bowtie I'm located down in Burnsville. We usually hit most of the big shows every year but only put the Pontiac in the Car Craft Summer Nationals. We got burned out on car shows a few years ago and the car is too new for Back To The 50's. That would be one bonus of picking up EM Corvair. I could enter it in that show.

Second, Brad I'll check into the local club. I got really turned off to car clubs after the dealing with the local Pontiac club. But you never know, a different group of people and attitudes can make a huge difference.

We're still looking and I've kind of switched gears. I love the body lines on the Early Model Corvairs but find the upgrades done to the Late Models appealing as well. So were really open to just about anything. The two things on my wish list are a 2-door and a 4-speed. Anything on top of that is just a bonus. What am finding is that my definition of a "rust free" car is different than others. I'm not looking for something 100 percent rust free as the cars are around 50 years old now. Some surface rust here and there is okay but don't tell me it has a clean body and then follow up with a statement saying the car has been repainted and has body filler slapped into the rear quarters or rocker panels. That is not a "clean" car to me. It's a rusty body that wasn't repaired properly.

Oh well, the right one will come along sooner or later. It's just hard to hold back when the wife has given me the green light to go get one. :)

[Bowtie Country]

Sorry I'm a little late in replying to this. But I really do appreciate all the help and advice. I just wanted to follow up on a few things.

First, Bowtie I'm located down in Burnsville. We usually hit most of the big shows every year but only put the Pontiac in the Car Craft Summer Nationals. We got burned out on car shows a few years ago and the car is too new for Back To The 50's. That would be one bonus of picking up EM Corvair. I could enter it in that show.

Second, Brad I'll check into the local club. I got really turned off to car clubs after the dealing with the local Pontiac club. But you never know, a different group of people and attitudes can make a huge difference.

We're still looking and I've kind of switched gears. I love the body lines on the Early Model Corvairs but find the upgrades done to the Late Models appealing as well. So were really open to just about anything. The two things on my wish list are a 2-door and a 4-speed. Anything on top of that is just a bonus. What am finding is that my definition of a "rust free" car is different than others. I'm not looking for something 100 percent rust free as the cars are around 50 years old now. Some surface rust here and there is okay but don't tell me it has a clean body and then follow up with a statement saying the car has been repainted and has body filler slapped into the rear quarters or rocker panels. That is not a "clean" car to me. It's a rusty body that wasn't repaired properly.

Oh well, the right one will come along sooner or later. It's just hard to hold back when the wife has given me the green light to go get one. :)

Um, yup, I was in the LOL GTO club for a couple years too as I have a '67. They can be a "snooty" crowd...

I'm a member of both the Camaro and Chevelle Clubs and they are much better with the Camaro Club being well organized and run. We hold 3 car shows a year.

I hear ya on wanting to get a car while the other half is in favor. That may change when she thinks of something she wants for the house/yard...

I've been trying to focus my search on the West and Southwest states for the least rust possible. I do major restoration body repair and there is no such thing as rust free. Even if a car has no visible rust on the outside, all the inner structured has no protection and IS rusting. Maybe very slowly, but it is in there lurking.

[mrg]

Well, well, well, welcome to the club!

Two years a go I bought a 1962 Spyder Convertible that looked fairly good. I thought that after a bit of TLC I will have a nice car to drive around Florida during winter time with a top down picking up chics. How little did I know. That car was a piece of junk. 2 years and many thousands of $$$$ it is still on the rolling wheels just about ready to be painted. Unless you have lots of money that you will never recover, huge passion for the car, that special car that you always wanted, (because it is special) 2 years minimum to rebuild it, endless arguments with guys working on it, parts suppliers that send you wrong parts and so on and on, stay away from getting one. The other alternative is that you buy one already rebuilt and road wordy and safe from Corvair Ranch or some other re-builder for a set price. At least you will have a car that you can drive immediately unless you can find one someplace else in a similar condition. Look for one that comes out of desert states which will minimize rust issues.

But, when my Spyder finally hits the road (maybe before the end of this year) all will be forgotten. Everyone will be drooling over it. Candy apple red with white interior and white top, power top, power tinted windows, AC, center consul, built in seat belts, navigation system, cruise control, disc brakes, real 16" wire wheels with red line radial tires, superior sound system, power seats, totally rebuilt turbo engine, power steering, collapsible tilt steering column and many more things that may be added on as we go.
So my friend $60,000 - 70,000 later I will be happy with my project.

Now, you tell me if I'm a "complete nut" or am I not a "complete nut". Caution! "One shall not judge unless one wants to be judged. I'll make sure I post some pix of it as soon as it is complete.

Good luck!

MRG-062 (my tag)

[Busted_Knuckles]

I can only reiterate what the others have said about mechanical work vs rust repair. I'm a fabricator and car restorer/machinist by trade. Been doing it for 40 plus years and rust repair is a SOB. Especially if don't have all the right equipment, welders plasma cutter sheet metal fabricating equipment etc. The 63 coupe my wife bought that I am working on now was a so so 30 footer. Looked pretty good from 30 feet away but yikes! when I got really into the car. My gut was telling me to run away from this and all Corvairs but she seemed to get it for a decent price so I figured what the heck. Well fast forward 9 month and I am still finding rust in places I hadn't seen before. I picked up a decent donor car with some good sheet metal for $350 but I still have to do double the work. Remove the wanted metal from the donor car and then remove the rusted stuff and "correctly" replace it. As mentioned the front fender weld on to a Corvair a sheer piece of engineering genius form the brain trust at GM (not) and that part of the car is prone to a lot of rot.
I did find a 100% rust free car out in Arizona at the Corvair Coral for only $700 yeah a screaming deal right. Yes until I started getting quotes to have it shipped to New Jersey almost $3000 with a reliable carrier.
So if we were ever in the market for another Corvair I would look in places like Arizona or the south west where you can find a rust free car. Even if you have to pay a premium for a rust free body and a good buck to have it shipped to where ever you live in the long run I think you'll save money. If I could have afforded to have that $700 coupe shipped here it would have been painted by now and everything swapped over and not in hlk in pieces taking up space in my shop.

Good luck in your hunt but really scrutinize what you buy and even if you need to pay someone who really knows these cars to give you a professional opinion on it that will save you a pile of money in the end.

[7lml]

I hear you on the rust thing. I've got a lead on EM that is supposed to rust free but we'll see. I was going to go look at this '66 near Rochester, MN but after asking for some pics of the rusty areas I think that I'm going to pass and keep looking. Given my past experience I think that both of those spots look like they could turn into a much larger nightmare. Too bad though because the rest of the car looked pretty clean. The right one will turn up, it just might take some time.

http://rmn.craigslist.org/cto/4112887686.htm

[Bowtie Country]

Yup, that one looks like a can of worms.