Product improvement question, fuel pump kit

[cnicol]

My fuel pump kit is "plug n play" with its included, pre-made harness.

However, the optional Low Oil Pressure module is currently "Splice n Play" as it requires splicing into the wire for the existing "Temp/Press" light. The pigtail, butt-connector, and shrink tube that's on the right in the photo below is what gets spliced-in to the car harness.

For EMs, the splice is made at the popped out and hanging lamp socket.

On LMs, the easiest place is behind the defroster duct extension:

In both cases, the dark blue wire gets cut, stripped, and combined with a 4" pigtail. The connection is sealed with shrink wrap tube. While the process is simple, it does take time.

I've developed a "Plug n Play" alternative that I'm considering but I'd like some input.
The plug n play version goes like this: Unplug the cars' Temp/Press light, plug a short pigtail into the cars' light socket and plug the socket into my adapter. Plug the adapter's new Temp/Press light into the dash. No cutting or splicing needed.

The bad news is the potential price increase. The existing LOP module & kit runs $30. If I go to the plug n play version, the LOP kit would likely go up to around $60.
In your opinion, is it better to keep the price down and do the extra work of splicing or is it worth the extra to just Plug n Play?
Thanks in advance for your input and advice!

[isucorvair]

Speaking as the potential future owner of several members cars....

Make it Plug and Play, easily reverted back to stock, without extra wires hanging.


Eric P.
DeWitt, IA

[RexJohnson]

If you could make it so that you pull the wire out of the connector and then make your harness plug into the connector and the removed wire. Not quite as easy as the plug and play but faster and better than cutting wires. If I was installing one of your kits that is how I would install it. I don't like cutting wires.

[chris]

My vote also goes to plug-n-play. It is added cost but it's cleaner, done right, and is way more "plug and play".

[66vairguy]

My fuel pump kit is "plug n play" with its included, pre-made harness.

However, the optional Low Oil Pressure module is currently "Splice n Play" as it requires splicing into the wire for the existing "Temp/Press" light. The pigtail, butt-connector, and shrink tube that's on the right in the photo below is what gets spliced-in to the car harness.
DSCF7213.JPG
For EMs, the splice is made at the popped out and hanging lamp socket.
20241002_142412 (Medium).jpg
On LMs, the easiest place is behind the defroster duct extension:
DSCF7231.JPG
In both cases, the dark blue wire gets cut, stripped, and combined with a 4" pigtail. The connection is sealed with shrink wrap tube. While the process is simple, it does take time.

I've developed a "Plug n Play" alternative that I'm considering but I'd like some input.
The plug n play version goes like this: Unplug the cars' Temp/Press light, plug a short pigtail into the cars' light socket and plug the socket into my adapter. Plug the adapter's new Temp/Press light into the dash. No cutting or splicing needed.
DSCF7250.JPG
The bad news is the potential price increase. The existing LOP module & kit runs $30. If I go to the plug n play version, the LOP kit would likely go up to around $60.
In your opinion, is it better to keep the price down and do the extra work of splicing or is it worth the extra to just Plug n Play?
Thanks in advance for your input and advice!

IF you can leave that option to a final step, then build kits to that point and offer BOTH configurations. If folks want to pay for "plug and play" then add that and ship at greater cost. If they want to cut and splice, then ship the kit that way for less cost to the customer. Just a thought ----

[Scott H]

From a person who is comfortable with wiring, I would still say make it plug n play.

[cnicol]

Thanks for all your input... it seems there is a preference for "plug n play" even if it is more expensive.

@ Rex: Pin-removal was my first idea too. It would be possible for early models with their body and dash harness being readily available Series 56 connectors and terminals however access to the EM dash connector is rugged. On lates, pin-substitution isn't practical as Twin-loc terminals are hard to source and connectors are basically impossible. Additionally, Twin-Loc pin-release is relatively difficult.

@ 66vairguy: I can easily offer the modules both ways, "splice n play" and "plug n play"; that's not a bad idea.

My initial offering was "splice n play" because I'm adept at that kind of thing with OE quality results. After launch I began to wonder if folks would choose to pay a little more to have their labor time reduced and how folks felt about splicing into intact wiring. I think I have my answer.

I found a really good deal on NOS two wire sockets and that makes this practical. Reproduction two wire sockets are $25 to $35 each! Yikes. The adapter housing is something I designed and 3D print.

Any other input or thoughts? I'm all ears.

[joelsplace]

I like the dual option.

[Frank DuVal]

The adapter housing is something I designed and 3D print.

Ah HA! I wondered where those parts came from. Great design. Offer both.

[Lane66Monza]

On lates, pin-substitution isn't practical as Twin-loc terminals are hard to source and connectors are basically impossible. Additionally, Twin-Loc pin-release is relatively difficult.

Any other input or thoughts? I'm all ears.

I replace Twin Loc terminals in my 66 Vairs with no issues in the engine harness connector, body harness connector and the dash connector. Just restricted to 18-20 ga wires, since no 12 ga terminals are available. I also add wiring to open connector terminal holes in the connectors, when I feel it is beneficial to do so. I agree Twin Loc connectors are impossible to find. I save the ones from harnesses I scrap. I usually find a way to put a Packard series 56 connector M/F into the wire, if I don't want to mess with the Twin Loc terminal at the main connector.

To remove the Twin Loc terminal, just slide something skinny like a small screwdriver along the terminal's right and left side and pull the wire/terminal to back itout of the connector. Here is a photo of tools for removing the terminals from the connector housings. The bottom row is what is used on Packard 56 Series connectors and the Delphi Twin Loc connector terminals.

Here is a video on the working with the Twin Loc Terminal.



Here are some sources for Twin Loc terminals.

https://theelectricaldepot.com/index.ph ... c+&x=0&y=0 (bag of 26 for $28.67 + 9.50 ship. $38.17 or $1.47 each)

https://bluewireautomotive.com/products ... -terminals (10 for $17 + shipping)

Only one lead on ebay and price is $3.95 for one terminal.

I hope this makes the terminal use more palatable.

[cnicol]

Thanks for all of your ideas.
The purpose of this improvement is to make the job simpler, less invasive, and less time consuming. The job also has to be something an average Corvair owner can accomplish using common tools.

Reworking an EM dash harness by pulling a pin on the gang connector is feasible but fails to make the job simpler, in fact it's quite a bit of work just to get to the gang connector. If I'm not mistaken, one has to pull the instrument cluster just for access to that gang connector.

Reworking an LM dash or body harness with a Twin-lock terminal and connector is not feasible because twin-lock connector housings (need two per kit) are long gone and I need up to ten a week. Add to that the task of pin removal requires an unusual tool and some skill. In the end, this idea is a non-starter because of the unavailable and unique connector housings.

I think I'm going to go with the suggestion of offering both the splice-n-play version and the lamp-socket based plug-n-play version. No special tools, skills, or difficult access required for the lamp-socket based system.

Thanks again for the great ideas and allowing me to access your toolkit!

Below: My Daughter about 20 years ago...

[joelsplace]

Mouser has the Twin-lock 2973915 connectors for $.766 each at 20. If you want 2500 you can get them for $.325
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=2973915

[cnicol]

Mouser has the Twin-lock 2973915 connectors for $.766 each at 20. If you want 2500 you can get them for $.325
https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=2973915

Terminals are easy, it's the housings that are NLA.

[Torskdoc423]

Got my kit Friday. I prefer a plug and play if available but have no problem doing spliceing and wiring(restore 1950's and 60's FISHER Hi-FI and Stereo receivers and Amps as a hobby).

Having both available can/should bring in the owners who want to install a kit, but aren't totally adept at reading a schematic or a vehicle's wiring diagram and would send it off to have it done rather than doing it themselves.

Larry