Single or two stage paint?

[Amagalla]

Hello all,

I'm hoping to get my car painted soon. I have 65 Monza that I'm going to paint in Rally Red (corvette color). I'm wonder if it would be better to use a single stage paint or a two stage (with a clear coat). What is your opinion?

Thanks,
Tony

[jfreez]

I prefer base/clear. just looks better.
If you're going for originality, single stage looks closer to the old Magic Mirror lacquer.

[66vairguy]

Hello all,

I'm hoping to get my car painted soon. I have 65 Monza that I'm going to paint in Rally Red (corvette color). I'm wonder if it would be better to use a single stage paint or a two stage (with a clear coat). What is your opinion?

Thanks,
Tony

That is a tough question to answer. Depends on equipment and experience. Based on my experience, with a metallic color you best color/finish is with a base/clear coat. With a solid color a single part is easier IF you get it on properly. You don't have much to work with if you have to sand it to "level" the finish and the color may change (especially a light paint over a dark primer).

The better base/clear paint jobs, usually 3 to 4 clear coats are laid down over the base color and then after a couple weeks of curing 1 or 2 coats are sanded and buffed off for a nearly perfect finish. As you cut down the clear coat IT WILL NOT CHANGE THE PAINT COLOR.

Some complain about the "patent leather - too shiny" look of urethane paints. If you block sand and buff with the proper products you'll get a finish that looks just like the old factory GM finishes.

Others can add their thoughts.

[Wagon Master]

Exactly. Look closely at a new car. Body shops these days have to alter their techniques to match the differant factory orange peels, or the panels won't match

[jimbrandberg]

I left this question to the guy painting my car silver and he's going with a base coat and clear coat.
I think it's single stage for the satin black in the interior, trunk, engine compartment, rear cove and rocker panels.
I figure if I don't like the black trunk I can spray something over the black paint later.
I got this car as a bare shell 49 years ago so I'm getting excited about finishing it.

[jjohnsonjo]

Did mine 25 years ago with Dupont Chroma 2 part. Still looks great, glad I did it that way

[66vairguy]

20240628_120149 (1).jpg

Did mine 25 years ago with Dupont Chroma 2 part. Still looks great, glad I did it that way

Looks good - AND it I forgot to mention YOU WILL ONLY get the 60's metallic look with a SOLVENT base coat covered with a clear coat. Yes solvent base paint went away for a few years after "water based" base coats came out, but they are back now and all LOW VOC complient (even sold in Californai ).

Before some of you start ranting about the EPA, note water based paints took over in NEW car manufacturing because they are LESS EXPENSIVE to use and NEW cars use the bulk of automotive paint so the big paint companies stopped making solvent base paint. Simple economics. However a number of small offshore companies still make solvent base coats and compatible clear coats for the hobby, custom car folks, BUT it is expensive due to the low demand.

I've been gearing up and trying the new paints and the first thing you learn is a HVLP spray gun is a must and you have to learn to regulate pressure AT THE GUN. The up side is a HLVP puts less paint into the air so you will use about 35% less paint for the same body area!!!! The other issue is to meet the LOW VOC requirements the paint may be a little "thick". Illegal to thin, but many do for a better flow.

With a solvent base coat you can control the metallic as a base coat goes on thin (you need three coats) dries almost as fast as it hits the metal. A water base coat lets the metallic SINK like the old 50's enamels. If you look at the new cars the metallic is subtle. Solvent base dries fast and FLAT and after about an hour, but now more than three hours you apply the clear coat (best bonding time range). Let each coat tack then apply the next. Three clear coats minimum, four if you are going to block sand before buffing.

DO NOT WORRY ABOUT THE BASE COLOR when it dries as the clear coat will change it. The place that mixes my base coat always gets it right on the money so the color is correct when I put on the clear coat. Just what I've learned so far.

[66vairguy]

I should have explained the issues with thick paint and thinning paint better. When mixing the paint you are suppose to follow the directions to be LOW VOC compliant. Some fine this results in a "thick" paint that is harder to flow. They add move solvent than specified.

[belaraphon]

Another consideration for single stage versus two stage is scratches. If you get light scratches on the paint, I find a clear coat will buff out better than a single stage when you want to get rid of the scratches.