New to the forum-

[kpitts]

Purchased a non-running 64 Corvair Monza 110 a few months ago. Glad to be a part of the forum. Posts on the forum have been very helpful. Will be posting some questions with a video later.

[66vairguy]

Welcome --- The 64 was the best of the earlies, IMHO.

As Brad would say ---- what are your skills? A non running old car can be a challenge, but sometimes you get lucky and it's minor.

[bbodie52]

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

"Non-running" could mean anything from a frozen engine with a broken crankshaft or a fractured camshaft timing gear to a good engine that is suffering from nothing more than a bad ignition coil or a worn-out set of ignition points! A description of your mechanical skills and knowledge, availability of hand tools and having a place to work on your Corvair also means a lot by "setting the stage" over the Internet to help the knowledgeable Corvair enthusiasts on the Corvair Forum to assist you in achieving your goals as a new Corvair owner. Knowing your location may also be of help, since knowing where you live may suggest some possibilities for assisting you with bringing your Corvair back to life! Detailed pictures of your Corvair, the engine compartment, and other places of interest will also help us to help you.

[bbodie52]

I just discovered your other post, which is helpful!

I have a 64 Monza 110 purchased a few months ago. All new parts listed below were purchased from Clarke's. Began with replacing the fuel tank, fuel lines and fuel pump. Car would start but would cut out. Assumed it might be stuck needle valve, took carbs off, decided to use rebuild kit from Clarke's- new floats, needle valve, needle seat, gaskets. Adjusted floats to spec using 62-64 Shop manual supplement. Adjusted fast idle to spec. On the electrical side, replaced the points, condensor and gapped to spec. I have a video link below of what I am getting- a couple pumps of the accellerator before turning the key. Strong start, then cuts out. Met a helpful corvair owner at a car show, he suggested a test, pouring in gas into carbs after start- did that with some squeeze bottles and sure enough it runs. I am assuming I am gas starved, but after replacing everything and then taking the carbs apart again and double checking spec adjustments I can't figure the next step. Any suggestions?

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/dEsZX2cDlgk

It does sound like you may have a fuel starvation issue. This may be helpful...

To set, or position the "automatic" choke, it is necessary to depress the gas pedal one time to allow the fast idle cams to move into position. Depressing the gas pedal allows the cold choke spring pressure to move into position, when the throttle linkage is momentarily moved out of the way.

If you suspect a fuel starvation condition, a faulty mechanical fuel pump could be developing. The pump output volume and pressure can be tested, as described below and in the Corvair Shop Manual.

As outlined in the Shop Manual instructions below, the mechanical pump should be tested for BOTH adequate pressure and fuel volume delivery. (A pump can have the correct pressure output, but fail to deliver adequate fuel volume to refill the float bowls).



NOTE: A fuel pump that is not delivering adequate fuel volume to support an engine that is being driven on the road could conceivably produce enough volume to support an idling engine.

The second test measures fuel flow at the fuel pump outlet. The standard in the shop manual states that the pump should be able to deliver 1 pint of fuel over a period of 40 seconds or less at engine cranking speed. If your pump does not appear to have any leaks and can pass the output pressure test, but fails to deliver the needed fuel volume, the problem may not be with the pump itself.

There is a long fuel line that runs the length of the car from the fuel tank to the fuel pump.



In order to pressurize and deliver fuel to the carburetors, the pump must be able to create a continuous vacuum in that fuel line to draw the fuel from the tank to the pump. Most of the fuel line is made up of steel tubing and is unlikely to develop a leak. However, there are two short lengths of rubber fuel hose in the fuel path. One section of hose is found at the fuel tank outlet, while the other is found adjacent to the starter motor — just before the line enters the engine compartment. The purpose of the second hose is to absorb vibration from the engine and prevent it from reaching the rigid steel fuel line. If either one of these two hoses develops a leak, the leak itself may not be apparent because the line is not under pressure so fuel will not be forced out. Instead, the leak amounts to a vacuum leak, which can allow air to enter the fuel line. This can prevent fuel from being drawn from the tank to the fuel pump, much like you might experience with a drinking straw if the straw was to split and developed an air leak in the side of the straw.

What appears to be a faulty pump that is causing fuel starvation problems in the carburetors often turns out to be a leak in the fuel line at some point between the gas tank and the fuel pump. So if fuel starvation becomes a problem with your carburetors, there is a tendency to question the condition of the needle and seat valve inside the carburetor, or to blame the fuel filter at the carburetor inlet (thinking it is clogged), or to blame the fuel pump itself. Before you blame the pump and toss it, or abandon it and replace it with electric fuel pump, be sure to check the condition of the rubber fuel hoses at each end of the long fuel line between the fuel tank and the fuel pump. You may find that a couple of hose clamps and a few inches of replacement fuel hose is all that necessary to get you back on the road!

There is also a fuel tank strainer inside the gas tank on the outlet tube. It was listed as a part used in 1960-1965 Corvairs, but it could be installed on any model year. It is conceivable that this strainer could become plugged and could restrict fuel flow to the fuel pump.

An indication that the fuel level is low in the float bowls might be observed by leaving the engine off when it has stalled and then looking down the throat of each carburetor while you manually open the throttle quickly. (Although the pictures were taken with the carburetors partially dismantled, the accelerator pump fuel-squirt action can be observed by simply removing the air cleaners and looking down each carburetor throat while holding the choke open and out of the way).

If the running engine has drained the float bowls, it is possible that some fuel may still remain in each accelerator pump reservoir. Try the test a few times to see if the reservoir is replenished by fuel in the float bowls. If you do not see a squirt of fuel into each carburetor throat when you open the throttle, the float bowls may be nearly empty, leaving no fuel to be pumped manually by the accelerator pump plunger into the carburetor throat...





Here is the identification of the early 1960-1961 pump (no longer available) and the 1962-1969 design (getting harder to find). The later mechanical pumps are interchangeable and mount the same as a direct replacement for the early design, as long as you change to the matching later model push rod.





Clark's still shows all mechanical pumps "currently out of stock", and this has been the case for months. There are apparent manufacturing errors, as shown above, and questionable pricing and availability (especially with Airtex). Carter pumps may be better, but that is uncertain. The listings fail to differentiate between fitment for 1961-1969 Corvairs and the unique 1960 fitment (which would work if the pump push rod is changed to match the new, later pumps).

To remove and reinstall the fuel pump, be sure that you have installed it properly. It is important to ensure that the fuel pump is correctly seated and installed. There is a hole in the side of the pump shaft that the tapered bolt tip must seat into. If the pump is sitting too high and the bolt is simply pressing against the side of the pump housing, rather than seating inside the tapered hole, the pump push rod will not be doing its job. Fig. 57 in the shop manual page shows the tapered hole that the tip of the bolt fits into. This ensures proper installation and seating of the pump.




Even Clark's Corvair Parts seems unable to find a good source for mechanical fuel pumps!

I gave up last year and ultimately switched to a new electric pump. The Corvair mechanical pump market may eventually sort itself out, but with ridiculous pricing variations, faulty fitment with improper drive rod lengths and missing anchor holes in the pump shaft, I would wonder how good the internal diaphragm material is (this was a problem years ago with older replacement pumps).

Although changing to a good electric pump is somewhat complex (to ensure a safe, well-designed installation), we may have reached a point where the aging Corvair mechanical pump is on its way out.



If you find the mechanical pump faulty and you decide to switch to an electric fuel pump, be sure to route your fuel lines safely away from the fan belt and pulleys to prevent potential physical damage and dangerous fuel leaks or engine fire hazards.


ELECTRIC FUEL PUMP CONVERSION IDEAS & SUGGESTIONS
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