My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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terribleted
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by terribleted »

Directional canceling cam P/N C8068 Clark's page 87
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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64CorvairMonza
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

Thanks, got it. Here are some photos of current doings on my Corvair. I found that the black rubber 'slip on' cover ( from the Mustang adapter) fits the hub and adapter that Seth sent me, like a glove! This will help somewhat the look of originality and the hub won't stand out ( and I didn't want to paint it flat black. After preparing and sealing the exposed HOT horn wire lead with E6000, I decided to glue it into the hub because I never need to remove the plunger but if I ever needed too, it could be pressed out. Anyway, got photos of the Corvair with the new mirrors on and even one of my boys hanging out with me. BTW, those are original GM mirrors, only listed for the 1955, 56, and 57 Chevy but they looked just like the original Corvair mirrors and the screw mounts lined up!! And yes, I know Corvair mostly only used a driver's side mirror, but, I like balance and the sporty look. Not bad for $59 a pair.

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64CorvairMonza
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

SWEEEEEEET! I have my new part on it's way now. I better start working on polishing my turn signal lever, but I may need a new chrome one. I'll see what it looks like when I'm done. I also got the engine deck lid insignia that goes below the Corvair letters!!!
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

If someone has a link to instructions or if simple, let me know what all I do to change that out. It appears to be held in with one flat head screw. My only thought is things may fall off when i lift it out LOL....

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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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Yes it is held in place with a single shoulder screw with a slotted head. And yes things may jump out of place (flat spring and roller mostly) when you remove the actuating ring, so pay attention to where they are and how things are oriented before taking it apart (photo?).

If someone has replaced the shoulder screw with a non-shouldered screw (common) it will either not let the lever move (tight) or the whole ring assembly will be unstable (loose). I have had a couple proper set screws bind the ring anyway and fixed them with either a very small lock washer on the shoulder screw or file a little off the ring to provide some clearance to the screw head.

I thought that your issue was with the lever being loose where it screws into this piece? If that is the case and the threads are screwed up you either find a way to the threads or simply replace the canceling unit (Actuating ring in the photo).

The little plastic detent roller is sometimes worn, but other than that I rarely have seen any issues with any of the parts of this assembly except the ring (they get distorted, broken, bent, lever hole stripped...). If you have all the parts in that diagram The little roller is supposed to ride on the inside of the detent spring so the roller catches in the V in the middle (signals off). I mention this because I have seen a number misassembled...of course they do not work properly either really.

Take it apart and assemble it just like the diagram:)
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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64CorvairMonza
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

Yes, just need to replace the actuating ring that I have in the photo. I hope it's a simple task. I got it today along with that new spring clip and another rubber or plastic part of sorts and it has the original pivot screw on it.

I got my headlight 'decorative cat's eyes' covers today and pulled the headlight trim and trim rings off and decided to pull the lights and individual buckets because I saw old painted-over rust holes on the main piece that holds all of that headlight assembly and uses approx 7 screws to hold it in place. I also saw some type of reversed stud at the bottom that may have a nut or a horn on the other side of it I suspect. I hope I can find new clean ones to replace them with. I don't even know what they are called or what to expect to see behind them when I pull the screws. Is it a simple removal and replacement? And directly in front of the front tires, what are those curled metal things that look like you can put your hand up and over the other side? Do they protect the horn/s?? They have two bolt holes at the top near each corner but not secured to anything and just flop when I wiggle them. If I remove the head light assembly piece, can I see through from the front of the car to what's in front of them curved sheet metal shields in front of the front tires? See photos, Thanks.
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

Found it. It's called a headlamp bucket. That bolt don't look like it does anything that I can tell.....
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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OK, I found this and a guy called them 'splash guards' and was having a hard time removing one and someone told him to throw them out and that they were useless.... I'm feeling better about removing the bucket assembly already!!

http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,596988

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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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There are supposed to be metal shields in behind the headlights under the fenders. They were to keep mud and debris off the tire from constantly flinging onto the horn and the back of the headlamp. The bottom stud on the headlamp assembly has a nut on the backside that help s retain the splash shields as well as pulls the bottom of the headlamp assembly in tight against the headlamp to body foam gasket.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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64CorvairMonza
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

OK, great! I thought there was a gasket to go between the bucket assembly and the body. I shall look for that gasket set. I don't mind using the mud shield but it appears that mine are doing no good now as water and dirt can fly off the tire and over the top of them into the rear of the light buckets. Maybe something up top was not assembled correctly and maybe why I see the TOP two bolts holes empty and they flop when I touch them. I'll know soon enough after removing the light buckets. I'll see if I need new mud shields or if I can re-install them correctly. I really need to get this up on jack stands and remove the wheels to get to everything easily. I can't turn my wheels cause I'm in the middle of changing that signal selector ring..And yes, for the photo shoot LOL..... Let me see if I can get a photo now for you.. brb..... OK, I got a few but that damn tire was in the way. My shields look healthy.
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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The shields are a good thing. Without them stuff flies right up into the front top of the fender. More of an issue where there is snow and slush but keeping debris from packing up in the area is a good thing.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

Thanks for all your help Ted and others. It's greatly appreciated as well is your patience. Well, yesterday I got her up on jack stands and removed the wheels. Always happens that one nut, somewhere, somehow, is going to fight you and I found that one nut LOL!!! I didn't realize I was using a 19mm deep well impact socket... First mistake was using a deep well socket (TIWAN) and second, was NOT using a 3/4" short socket!!! And only on that last lug nut did reality set in. I fought and fought and my electric impact was fighting with me. I finally split that Tiwan socket wide open LOL!!!! Then I looked at it and said, ut oh, wrong size and brand.That never happened to me before!!! But then again, I never found a lug nut I couldn't remove either. I then found the 3/4" short impact socket (Craftsman) while I let WD-40 soak that lug nut. 5 minutes later, I tried again and it spun off!!!!!!!! WOW, WD-40 is truly a gift to mechanics!!!!!!
OK, anyway, it started to rain last night and it was too dark to crawl under to look at the floor pan which we always dread doing!!! I've always had to replace them pans but the owner said they were clean, I trusted him, and after peeking at them in his garage at night and being satisfied ( and excited I finally got an EM Corvair w/ a dash shifter!) , I gave the guy $3000 and trailer'd it home after he drove it onto the trailer for me. AND, just now, I crawled underside with my camera and to my amazement, I didn't find any rust!!!!! I saw a lot of primer and undercoating and not thick that I couldn't see all the pan lines to know there were no repairs or bondo blobs!!! I feel like the luckiest man on earth for a change!!! I took many a photo. IF anyone wants a photo of anything while it's off the ground, let me know.

Now I can finish draining the tank and checking the condition of the filler seal. Maybe I'll be lucky and it's just that filler tube doughnut. The car is supported by a 1"x2" with a rubber pad under an area I call the tubular frame area just under that jack plate in the rear. I used my floor jack at the very forward edge just before the 'curve upward or elbow 3" in, ' in that frame like square tubing so I had room to set my jack-stand in place behind the jack. In the front, I used a 2'X2" cut to 10 inches to lay in a frame area just to the rear of the front tire wheel well criss-cross wise. It works strong and I figure it's got to be the strongest spot to use this way. I haven't seen the photos I took yet so maybe I got the jack stands in them. If not, I'll do it later. I don't think I need to, but, if I had to drop my gas tank, I have plenty of room once I remove that sway bar. Speaking of sway bar, I'll replace the bushing with high performance red ones). I lifted the car for the purpose of draining and flushing the tank and then undercoating the bottom again, because, who knows when I will have it up in the air again. Next time I will have a set of 17' wood ramp platforms to drive up onto. OH, and It may come back down with 14" tires on it. I've heard that you can comfortably use 14" X 8" wheels, but don't know if the back spacing is at 0" or what. It will just sit in my garage for weekend drives around the countryside, checking roadside farmer's markets, garage sales, and maybe flea markets ( it's what we do in Florida LOL) I want to add to my 8-track tape collection)...... Thanks for looking!!!
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

I really must say that besides the crappy (what appears to be) a DIY spray paint job( that I need to polish out), someone really took care of this car! I was told it sat most of it's life. I wonder if the 37,000 miles on the odometer is for real the more I see how pristine most areas are and the fact that the floors are original. Anyway, here are the jack-stand placements. For jacking the front, I placed a floor-jack directly in the center of the cross-member and it easily jacked upward with no stress or amountable weight factor( I spose because the engine weight in the rear was helping)... Thanks!! See ya on FB Ted!! Scott V.
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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

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That front placement of stands should work I guess. I usually just stand them where the arm your are using T's with the unibody rail about 4" inboard of where your stands are. I use a rag on top of the stand to protect the car if needed and position the stand carefully. Results in no damage. easier than what you are doing and maybe more stable. (Just aft of the vertical flange in the body rail)

I would add that your car looks to be in very good condition. You said something about 37k actual maybe? That can often be seen in wear on the gas, brake, and clutch pedals. 37k will not have a lot of wear. 137k the inboard side of the gas pedal as well as the other pedals will be significantly worn. Of course if these parts have been replaced who knows.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/

Located in Snellville, Georgia

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Re: My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

Post by 64CorvairMonza »

I agree and I usually look to replacing the pedal pads with new ones but they did look really good. they looked original and not replaced but I'm sure there's identification on how to tell anyway. Maybe the originals will have a GM stamp inside compared to aftermarket. The seats are original and sadly there's one small tear at a seam on the passenger side front and I don't know how to stop further tearing in that spot. It's approx. 2",and I'm sure the vinyl got 'tight' with age and a bad spot in production is all it takes to open up. Sitting on old vinyl seats when they are cold can make them brittle as well. Is there a repair for this? I've been in and out on the drivers side and back seat and they seem to be fine. But old, cold, and tight vinyl is bad news if sat on. Especially 55 year old vinyl.
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