Locking Up Right Rear Brake

[GasDaddy140]

If you can lock up that brake in your garage, loosen the bleeder screw, if fluid comes out forcefully, you have a brake fluid problem, either the hose or the wheel cylinder or both or could be the master cylinder, they are not that good anymore, I had to buy 3-4 for my 49 Chevy to finally get brakes. If the fluid just gently flows out, more than likely, it is the brake hardware and start looking there. I would not eliminate the master cylinder as the source of your problem. Did you re-adjust the rod at the MC. That is done under the dash. Just be sure you have a little play in the brake pedal before it engages.

1949Chevy - I purchased a new dual master cylinder (my 1965 was single) and split the lines much like the conversion kits I saw online. There is no adjustable metering block. I'll take a picture and post soon so that you can see. And, I do have a little play in the brake pedal.

[GasDaddy140]

Nope. None of those issues have anything to do with a master cylinder problem.

Joelsplace - I'll add pictures of my setup by this weekend. I'm still locking my right rear today, and I adjusted it looser, and snugged up the fronts slightly this past weekend.

['stitch']

One other possibility is a brake drum that is out of round. Many local auto parts stores can refinish a drum, usually less than $20.00

Bettcha This is it! Had a 60 Valiant that sat for years before I got it. 3 of the 4 Drums were so out-of-round, they almost looked Oval.
Having a good machine shop to turn your drums, don't cost much...

[terribleted]

Were the brake hoses replaced? How about all the springs? New? Did you rebuild the wheel cylinders or replace them with new?

Hi Not so Terrible Ted-
Yes, all hoses were replaced, new wheel cylinders and most of the springs.

I have had shoe hold down springs cause pull. I have also had different diameter drums cause pull how do they measure? Have you tried swapping drums left to right to see if it effects the issue? Are the drums turned oversized (max is 9.5" +.060" on a late model) Are the shoes installed correctly (short shoe forward) on both sides? Are both brakes actually working...have helper apply pedal just to make sure the Left side is actually applying.

[1949chevy]

Hey Gasdaddy....I know sometimes you think the problem will never get solved...but it will. Both my Corvairs have duel master cylinders. One on my 66 140/PG car I did. The one on my 64 convertible was done by the previous owner. Both have very good brakes but the 66 pulled a lot to the right for a while but has now quit pulling. One think causing the pull, believe it or not, was WASHING THE CAR. I had not put in the rubber stoppers in the drums and water was entering there and causing the pull...took a couple of times to figure that one out. And oh yes, I have stoppers in all drums now.

Are U sure that the MC is plumbed correctly? Some folks plumb them LEFT FRONT, RIGHT REAR, etc vs only one axle front or rear getting the fluid. Also , don't forget, our brakes are the opposite of most cars...our larger brake is on the rear of the car vs a "normal" car. Were the hardware kits you installed the same company, same stock number, etc. I have not been where my Corvairs are or I would investigate mine...I am at my Corvette's place for a couple more weeks or so....you might check the size of the rear drums as terribleted I think said.

I would try to re-adjust the MC rod under the dash...it only takes about 2 min to do that. You loosen one nut, turn the adjuster and then tighten down the nut to secure your new adjustment. You would shorten the rod...I would not do but about 2-3 or so turns of the treaded rod at a time. Take your finger and push down on the brake pedal, if you get about 1/8 to less than 1/4 easy one finger push before you feel resistance, try that, I would not lock down the nut until I tested what you have done. Seems a 1/2 inch and 9/16 inch wrench is needed. A wrench is used to do all the adjusting. Again, move the adjusting rod to have more threads on the dash side vs the MC side...pretty sure I am right but been a while.

Good luck. Some of the others have given great advice also.

[GasDaddy140]

Hi Corvair Bad Asses :)

I have resolved my right year tire braking lock-up! The one that caused a lot of blue-white tire smoke at times, and alarming tire screeching.
My 17 year old son and I completely disassembled that drum brake and installed a different new set of brake shoes. And two new springs. Of which the the hefty top one is really important, like they all are :). For whatever reasons I used the old one even though I bought new spring sets. The old one seemed weaker, and pinged when dropped on the garage floor. The shoes had some strange wear spots and might have been defective. Some mechanics told me that so much junk parts are sold now. We went for a short tooling-around wearing the new classic AR Torque Thrust rims and 216 60 15 rear rubber. Slamming the brakes. What a great feeling! We high-fived!! We did it. I really dislike working on drum brakes and got through a personal psychological barrier, I think. At least temporarily...

I was really wanting the classic Torque Thrust wheels out back, in silver, sans weird caps. Impulse shopping. Aggressive look.

Thanks for all your help on this completely annoying and dangerous issue. I used all of your ideas to check stuff.

[terribleted]

Sweet!!