Doors and parts adjustment.

[66Corsa]

I recently had my 1966 Corsa Convertible painted and both doors where removed for painting. Besides that, the inside window regulator parts where taken out for cleaning and refurbishing. I am now ready to put all window parts back together but need information as to where to start adjusting doors, window mechanism, door weatherstrips and convertible top seals (have a new top and seals also).

Is there any technical manual for the Corvair that will give me a step by step rundown on all the adjustments?
I have searched the internet and have come out empty handed on this.

I also remember hearing that on cars that are convertibles or hardtops, the doors should be adjusted lower that the final resting place (when the door is completely closed). Once the door goes past the first latching (at the point when the door is not fully closed but not free to open) the striker will finish lifting the door on the final 1/2 inch or so, as to make the window glass be pushed againt the upper seals for a watertight seat.

I would appreciate input on this.

[bbodie52]

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

I would like to encourage you to post a brief Corvair-related biography and some pictures of your Corvair in the Introductions section of the Corvair Forum. Tell us a little about your interest in Corvairs, where you live, and your personal assessment of your technical knowledge and mechanical skills. Telling us something about yourself and your Corvair helps other members of the Corvair Forum to better-understand your needs, and helps us to form better and more-meaningful answers to your questions.

Use the first link below to download the 1966 Fisher Body Service Manual. Section 7 explains door and window adjustments. I think this material will help you.

Having the proper reference materials – including the factory shop manual – is important. You can download all of these references at no cost onto your computer in Adobe Reader format from the links below. You can then read through the procedures and print the appropriate pages that you will need to refer to as you go through the procedure on your Corvair. Of course, you can also purchase hard copies of the shop manual from Clark's Corvair Parts or other sources. I hope you will find some useful references at these websites to add to your personal technical library.

Free Downloadable Corvair Shop Manuals, Parts Manuals, Service Manuals, etc.
http://1969corvair.com/techpages/Corvai ... Index.html

Free Early Model Corvair Shop Manual & Other Useful Manuals
http://www.corvair.org/chapters/corvanatics/manuals.php

Adobe Reader - Free Utility for viewing files in Adobe Reader (.pdf) format...

If you don't have this fee application installed on your PC, you can download it here:
http://get.adobe.com/reader/

This Corvair Forum section will provide you with some useful Corvair-related Internet links...
DIY - Explanations and Demonstrations
CORVAIR FORUM viewforum.php?f=225

Again, welcome!

[terribleted]

I also remember hearing that on cars that are convertibles or hardtops, the doors should be adjusted lower that the final resting place (when the door is completely closed). Once the door goes past the first latching (at the point when the door is not fully closed but not free to open) the striker will finish lifting the door on the final 1/2 inch or so, as to make the window glass be pushed againt the upper seals for a watertight seat.

I would appreciate input on this.

This is not the case. Starting with an empty door assembly and the striker removed from the door opening as follows:

1. Mount hinges to body

2. Mount empty door to hinges and align as necessary at the body and at the front of the door to obtain a fit that leaves the door with even gaps front and rear. Also ensure that the side body line is aligned from the front fender thru the door onto the 1/4 panel. Also ensure the door is as flush as possible with both the rear of the fender and the front of the 1/4 panel. Body to door hinge bolts provide up/down and front/rear adjustments. Hinge to door bolts provide in/out and up/down adjustments. (note: it is somewhat normal for the front of the door to not be flush with the fender at and a bit above and below the side line.) Adjust for flush top and bottom and vertical alignment at side line. Also be sure at the front of the door that there is adequate clearance so that the door can not contact the fender while swinging. Closest gap during door opening should be at least 1/8" (risky, cars flex on uneven surfaces) or more. Pay particular attention to the clearance at the very forward tip of the side line on the door. This spot is usually where any clearance issue arises. Sometimes dead equal front and rear gaps are not possible and the door needs to be moved a touch rearward for proper clearance.

3. Install all hardware in the door excluding interior parts and water-shield Leave vent assembly and window adjustments loose for the moment. Once all these parts are installed You will likely find that the door has dropped a little in the rear from the added weight. (if the door will not close properly simple move the vent window assembly as needed.....remember we left it loose.....to get it to close to flush) Realign the door higher in the rear if needed to attain side line alignment (I adjust this just a touch high...perhaps 1/16 to 1/8" to allow for settling, a slight push from the weather seal, and the weight we will add when we install the trim panel and parts.) If the door is a touch high or low when we are done it can usually be adjusted by bending it (the door) slightly up or down at the rear to tweak that last little bit.

4. Adjust the vent window for a good fit at the windshield post. Be sure it is hitting the seal all the way and that the assembly is high enough to allow the glass to hit the weather strip when you adjust it in a min. Vent assembly must be tipped in and out properly to hit the seal fairly evenly and not being forced out at the top as you close the door to flush.

5. Adjust the glass to track nicely in your well aligned vent window track so that seals evenly to the groove in the roof rail weatherstrip for its entire length. Often at this point you will tweak the vent window angle and or tip to perfect the fit.

6. Install the door weatherstrip to the door.

7. Check side line evenness again and tweak as needed.

8. Install latch striker. The part should be adjusted so that it hits the center of the latch slot. The door should not "ride up" nor down onto the striker. The adjustment is dead center and in toward the interior enough to flush the rear of the door once again.

9. Install 1/4 glass and track assembly and adjust it to seal to the door window and the roof. ( I have had pretty good luck fully installing the assembly into the 1/4 panel, fiddling it into alignment, and tightening the bolts.

Hope this helps. There is a lot of adjustment available in every one of these steps. They can be a pain in the bum sometimes. Some cars go easy and others give you fits. Good luck.

[Latrgatr]

When you say the latch striker, is that the one on the door or on the frame?


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[terribleted]

The striker is the post mounted on the 1/4 panel vertical jamb. The latch is the mechanical assembly that mounts inside the door.

[66vairguy]

There is a GM body manual with diagrams - BUT be warned that door and glass fitment is an acquired skill.

Patience, patience, patience is required. Also you'll find one adjustment can often affect others.

[Corventure Dave]

I basically do what Ted posted. However, I have found it is best, for me at least, to install the door striker before the weather strips. The weather strips need to squeeze-crush to fit. This will take several weeks. If the striker is adjusted after the weather strips, the door will not close properly after the weather strips start to take their set. And the doors will need to be re-adjusted several times to close completely and properly.
Adjusting the door to fit and close flush is always the first thing. If one adds all the other hardware and then tries to adjust the door t fit and close, it can be a long battle to get things right.
The old Fisher bodies were never perfect or symmetrical like modern cars today. The fit was only fair to good, at best.

Corventure Dave

[terribleted]

In my mind there is only one best alignment of the door. That is where it is as flush and even with the body as possible. That is where I adjust them and the weatherstrip should crush as necessary to conform. Any adjustment to compensate for weatherstrip fit would make the door slightly out of perfect alignment to the body, but, perhaps in better adjustment ;) (this is sometimes necessary for best function of the door).