a few questions on new build for the experts

[krimepays]

Ok I have few more questions I have a 110 block 140 heads 2 carbs plated off.
Here are my questions:
I have a what sounds like a light knock, not catastrophic rod knock but its enough to hear over stinger exhaust. I can't pin point where it's coming from but it seems slower than rpm. Doesn't change when I push the clutch?
Is there a way to check flywheel without pulling motor? Would improperly adjusted valves make this noise? Possibly sticky lifter?
I am also getting an occasional pop out of the drivers side carb. And sometimes on deceleration it will backfire through the exhaust.
I know the exhaust has some pin hole leaks from sitting with water in them (thus the rebuild)
Any thoughts and or experiences you guys could share would be great

[krimepays]

Here's another pic of progress so far

[azdave]

Is there a way to check flywheel without pulling motor? Would improperly adjusted valves make this noise? Possibly sticky lifter?
I am also getting an occasional pop out of the drivers side carb. And sometimes on deceleration it will backfire through the exhaust.
I know the exhaust has some pin hole leaks from sitting with water in them (thus the rebuild)
Any thoughts and or experiences you guys could share would be great

I'm not expert compared to many here but a bad flywheel (rivets loose) will make the most noise at idle while in neutral and clutch fully out. The noise will almost disappear when you put slight pressure on the cluth or while driving in gear.

Backfire through the carb can be many things but an intake valve not closing correctly could allow combustion gas into the intake and fire off the fuel/air mix in the runner.

Valve clatter is a sharp quick noise that usually is heard after a long period of non-use even when the valves are properly adjusted. The noise typically goes away within a few moments or a few miles of driving. An improperly adjusted valve or bad lifter could make this noise constantly or may come and go.

Backfire at deceleration can be caused by a leaky exhaust system or with some types of header designs (quite often) when enough oxygen enters to fire a rich mixture exiting the engine.

If you have the means to load a short video to youtube with audio that is the best way for us to hear the knock and make a better diagnosis.

This is an example of valve clatter noise
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Td7MT5oEgqQ

[Jerry Whitt]

Back fires, pops can be caused by electrical problems, such as a distributor cap with carbon tracks.

I really like to test things. The testing usually will be more accurate than the guess.

Start with compression tests. This is done with all the plugs out. The readings should be within about 10 lbs of each other.
If some readings are not up to par, a leak down test will help isolate problems.

The leak down test involves putting air pressure into the cylinder, with the piston near top dead center on compression stroke. Usually the leakage of 10 percent or less is
ok. If the percentage is higher, put your ear to the oil filler tube. A hiss noise would suggest a ring problem Should a hiss be heard at the tail pipe, this in indicator of an exhaust valve leak. Hissing at the carburetor would indicate an intake valve.

Another test involves a really good inspection of the distributor cap, and rotor. While in that area, check the points.

[krimepays]

Thank you for the replies!
I readjusted the valves today and it seems to be running better still has a pop through exhaust but I think like you stated Dave it could be from the combo of headers and the exhaust leaks.
The knocking noise is still there but mainly only at idle speeds. Does not get louder or more violent at higher rpm.
And Jerry you may be on to something, I replaced the point with an electronic ignition but have not yet replaced the cap rotor and wires. I'm gonna try and get over to california corvair tomorrow and pick them up.
It's hard to tell where the knock is coming from because of the loud exhaust but it seems to be louder towards the rear of the motor.
Will pulling the starter give me an indication of a failing flywheel? I seem to remember reading that you could possibly see wear or feel that it is loose?
Also when I push in the clutch it drops the rpm, is that normal?
Thank you again for your help!

[azdave]

T
Also when I push in the clutch it drops the rpm, is that normal?

Not at all. Something odd there. How much does it drop RPM?

[krimepays]

If I had to guess I would say from from 700 to 500.
Also Dave I don't have a you tube account yet but I'm working on it.

[krimepays]

Oh and Jerry I did a compression test all were within 10psi of each other, I know that might change a bit after the new rings wear a bit.

[krimepays]

Ok I replaced cap rotor and wires, still getting popping out of carbs and exhaust. Next question, fuel pressure? I'm running and electric fuel pump with a regulator I have read on here that the pressure is anywhere from 2-4.5 when I pulled the carbs the intake was wet inside so I think that it's pushing to much fuel. I originally had the regulator set to 4.
Would flooding cause serious of the symptoms?

[Jerry Whitt]

Excess fuel would not cause the popping. A lean mixture could cause popping.

Your mentioned the valve adjustment made it run better. An idea that might help.

The engine is basically an air pump. Therefore, measure the engines pumping. To do this, add a vacuum gauge to the port on the carburetor below the throttle plate, intake manifold vacuum.

Readjust the valves on that side and watch the gauge. Adjust the valves slowly to get the highest vacuum gauge reading. I also use a stethascope touching the bolt holding the valve adjusting nut. While adjusting, and listening, quiet is good, and high vacuum reading is good.

Now move to the other side.

Good luck!