66 Corsa 140/4spd to 65 Monza

[MonzaMan]

I would like to swap all drive train components, shift linkage, front suspension and steering gear from a 1966 Corsa (body is shot) onto my early, 65 Monza PG. Is the 65 body and frame able to bolt on all of the 66 mechanical parts?

[bbodie52]

I believe all of these components will transfer into a 1965 body. Having both cars available to transfer each component, item by item, should make things easier if you do the work item by item, rather than pulling everything from the donor vehicle and box it all up, and then try to remember how those pieces go together! The clutch and shift linkage components might be a bit confusing, but transferring each item, a little at a time, will likely keep those things fresh in your mind! (There may be some differences in the steering column mount between the 1965 and 1966 Corvair). There was also a change in the manual transmission in 1966 when the 1965 and earlier transmission was abandoned.


In addition to the 1965 Corvair Chassis Shop Manual, I would suggest purchasing a copy of the 1965 Corvair Assembly Manual. There is a lot of information in the Assembly Manual that you won't find in the Shop Manual.


CORVAIR ASSEMBLY MANUALS
https://ssl.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalo ... _page=243B


Part number C7315: ASSEMBLY MANUAL-65 CARS

Weight: 2 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Page(s): 243B
Price: $ 16.40




Free Late Model (1965) Corvair Shop Manual & 1965 Corvair Assembly Manual
viewtopic.php?f=80&t=17994


I have attached many of the 1965 Assembly Manual sections below...

[MonzaMan]

Thank you for a quick reply.
I do have both cars side by side and will exchange components in order of removal. I am envisioning pulling the motor package out on it’s wheels for clean up and maintenance as the car was parked outside for 30 years. It is hard to believe that the PO left a beautiful CORSA to deteriorate in the weather.

[terribleted]

pretty easy swap. Youi need the entire 66 transaxle including input shaft and differential ujoint connection parts as the bolts on the 665 unit are larger than the 65 ones. You also need to use the 66 shifter tube (or at least the stabilizing link) as the stabilizer rod at the back is a different length.

[gbullman]

Is there a particular reason you want to swap the front end components? Steering box & column will just require paying attention to the differences.

The bolts retaining the U joints in back are different sizes between 65 & 66 but I believe the U joints are the same.

Other than that and what has been mentioned you are going about this the right way, should be a fun car when you’re done.

[66vairguy]

I've installed a 66 4 speed drivetrain into a 66 PG car.

I've also corrected a 66 from a 65 drivetrain back to a 66 drivetrain. Some of the 65 4 speed drivetrain parts are different vs. the 66 4 speed.

Having a reference car is very helpful. Since you are dismantling one car to move the parts you'll loose your reference. However you can take A LOT OF PICTURES. No matter how many books you have, or how good your memory is you will probably come to a point you can't figure something out. The pictures will be a valuable assistance.

It will not be as easy as moving parts. The clutch pedal mechanism will need to be dismantled and cleaned and worn bushings replaced if needed.
The floor has a shifter hole cover you'll need to remove from the PG car. Since the 4 speed car is rough I bet the shifter will need to be rebuilt, although if badly corroded it will need to be replaced. The inner and outer shift tube from the shifter to the transaxle will most likely need new bushings. The clutch release pivot unit bolts to the rear seat bulkhead and has a rubber pad under it. On the PG car the bolt holes may be full of sealer. Well you by now you get the point. A lot of work to do it right, but certainly is doable. The pulley mechanism near the gas pedal has to be installed. Same bracket, but different spacers and the pulley may be bad. I recall Roger Parent makes a correct unit as it is suggested the Clark's replacement pulley groove size is incorrect (strains cable).

Unless the 66 4 speed car is low mileage you'll have to determine how good the transmission is and at about 80K miles the differential ring and pinion shaft will most likely need replacing due to inner splines wear. No new ones -- you must use a good 66-69. If you install the more common 65 style it will destroy the transmission and differential. OH!! Unless the flywheel was "bolted" it will have the factory rivets that come loose around 50 - 100K miles. Clark's has rebuilt bolted flywheels (a precision job, not to be done by an amateur).

Bottom line is I suggest you make sure the 66 4 speed transaxle is good before installing it in you PG car. You also mentioned " I am envisioning pulling the motor package out on it’s wheels for clean up and maintenance as the car was parked outside for 30 years. " LM cars have the rear suspension parts mounted to the body, no subframe like and EM car. So the drivetrain can't come out with the rear suspension and roll around. The axles and lower control arms have to be unbolted (DO NOT unbolt the lower control arm brackets from the differential as the control arms twist the brackets with the wheels down and undoing the bracket bolts will BREAK the cast iron bosses on the case -- I've seen this done a few times. You have to jack up the wheel about level (like sitting on the ground, then unbolt the control arm from the axle/brake hub. After that you can remove the control rods from the differential easily.

I'll caution you are working with heavy parts and coils springs, caution must be used if you value life and limb. It took me a while (you'll need at least a two by garage), but ever-thing works well and it shifts and drives like a new car.