Corvair Forum

I want to put a 64-69 clutch system in my 61 corvair, I know that I have to change the flywheel clutch and pressure plate. But I'm not to sure if I would need to change the bell housing on my 145ci engine

I know there is a difference in the depth of the rear main seal. There may be other things to consider like the clutch fork pivot ball height but I don't do earlies so I don't know all of the problems you might run into.

Info here part way down the page.

http://autoxer.skiblack.com/swap.html


I'm just curious. What is the reason you want to mix the early and late components?

Clark's Corvair Parts catalog does list a different part for the 1960-1963 Standard Transmission bellhousing and the 1964-1969 Standard Transmission bellhousing, but does not explain the difference. Some different part numbers were also reflected in the Chevrolet Parts Catalog, as if something changed in 1964. The crankshaft stroke changed in 1964, but the length and clutch mount at the end did not. The final page shown below from Clark's discusses the use of a 1961-1963 clutch assembly in a late model Corvair, and the reverse. The main concern seems to be matching the correct throw out bearing and differential housing pivot ball stud with the selected clutch assembly (flywheel and pressure plate). I suspect that any bellhousing designed for a manual transmission clutch assembly will work, regardless of the model year. The primary differences is in the casting for a clutch vs. a Powerglide torque converter. Whatever combination you decide on, I believe that the Clark's catalog can provide you with the correct guidance to bring the correct component combination together. If there is any doubt, an email or a phone call to the parts supplier (i.e. Clark's, the Corvair Ranch, etc.) should help to ensure the right choices.


http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=10

Part number CU57: USED BELLHOUSING 64-69 STD
Weight: 12 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 10(7),U,2(8)
Price: $40.00

Part number CU55: USED BELLHOUSING 60-63 STD
Weight: 12 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 10(7),U,2(8)
Price: $17.00

bbodie52 wrote: Some different part numbers were also reflected in the Chevrolet Parts Catalog, as if something changed in 1964. The crankshaft stroke changed in 1964, but the length and clutch mount at the end did not.

According to the article linked in my first post...
When they stroked the crank in 1964 the seal and the flywheel face moved .070.

Here's another thread with info when someone was mixing early and late parts and had issues with the rear seal.
http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,295662

That's about all I can remember seeing about this subject.

The following is a partial chapter article from the book Performance Corvairs: How to Hotrod the Corvair Engine and Chassis. This is an excellent book, and I would highly recommend purchasing the book as a valuable reference and learning tool for all Corvair owners.

Left-click the image with your mouse to enlarge for better viewing... If you don't own a copy of this book, I would strongly suggest that you buy a copy and read it to help you with your Corvair upgrades and improvement investments. I have owned the earlier version of this book since 1970, and bought the updated version when it was published last year. It is filled with a great deal of informative material that has been developed and collected over decades of Corvair ownership and racing. At $20.80 it is a good Corvair "bible" that will help you to make educated, informed decisions for your Corvair before you actually spend time and money.

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Corva ... th+emerson

Jonathan's61vair wrote:I want to put a 64-69 clutch system in my 61 corvair, I know that I have to change the flywheel clutch and pressure plate. But I'm not to sure if I would need to change the bell housing on my 145ci engine

No, you don't have to change the bellhousing.

In addition to changing the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate, you need the 64-69 throwout bearing, and you need a shorter 64-69 style clutch fork pivot (screws into the transaxle housing). You'll probably have to adjust the clutch pull rod quite a bit.

Do you know the history of the car? It might be a good idea to change the crank seal in the bellhousing, and also the pilot bearing.

I'm also curious as to why you want to do this

Marty Scarr

martyscarr wrote:
I'm also curious as to why you want to do this

Marty Scarr

I would like to change this setup because I want to buy a performance clutch but it does not fit to my cars setup... Well thats what it says. But now seeing how much more stuff I need to change I might just pass.

Jonathan's61vair wrote:

martyscarr wrote:
I'm also curious as to why you want to do this

Marty Scarr

I would like to change this setup because I want to buy a performance clutch but it does not fit to my cars setup... Well thats what it says. But now seeing how much more stuff I need to change I might just pass.

I see in your posts you are looking for more power for your car, and are hoping to build up a 140 or 150 engine. Well, you don't need to upgrade your clutch for either of those engines (unless you have an 8 inch disc, in that case you should upgrade to a 9 inch disc). The stock (non-turbo) early pressure plate and flywheel will handle either of those engines just fine.

My "stage III yenko" clone engine has an early flywheel and clutch. Why? Because the flywheel is aluminum but it's an early 60-63 flat style. It has worked very well for me, both in local autocross and at the CORSA national convention autocross.

Save your money for cylinder head work

Marty Scarr