Corvair Forum

Mike , I just started reading this topic . I think it's an interesting swap and that you've done a great job . I notice that your very first post in this thread that all of the pictures are gone , at least on my system . I'd be interested to see how you mated the alien engine to the native earthling drive train ! I know that might be a pain though . Are they available on photobucket or some other photo sharing site ? Thanks

Interesting swap - the Civics & Corvairs have similar curb weights; what final-drive options are available for the 'vair beyond the original 3.27/3.55/3.89?

didget69

you actully asked to see pictures at a good time, i have to replace the clutch throw out bearing snout on the gearbox, so that whole assembly is apart as we speak. i will take picture and update the thread!


its tough to add up total parts cost, because a few things i have revised over time, and on weather or not you justify the megasquirt system as needed. (the distributer clearance of the honda motor is a MAJOR issue)

Overall, here is a quick breakdown

JDM B20 motor with less than 60k miles --- 450$
Clutch/flywheel/throwout bearing/pilot beating (including disk re-splineing) 230$
Bell housing from broken Acura Integra transmission 75$
Bell housing machine shop labor 80$
Saab alternator (because honda one is PCM controlled and will not work with MS) 160
Throttle cable 50
radiator and cooling parts 140
Starter 90$
Clutch hydraulics (slave, master, and lines) 40$
Hardware (bell housing, and flywheel are special bolts) 60$

total ($1435)

Turbocharger And related

Turbocharger from saab 9000 Free
Manifold 100$
lines 50
exhaust and wrap 75$
intercooler (pump, and secondary heat exchanger) 200$

Total (425)

Megasquirt and related

Fuel pump 100
MS1 V2.2 ecu 270
injectors 150
EDIS 4 system 120

Total (640$)

Rough grand total 2490$

Im sure i am forgetting a few minor things, but that should give you a rough idea of what it cost. Realisticly there are just a lot of "nickle and dimes" that add up over time. Many of these purchases were spaced out over the last 2 years and some money was gotten back in selling old corvair parts

Also, Lets think about what it takes to make a corvair motor make a reliable 200 wheel hp/toque, and rev to 7000 rpms. ive seen built 140s, with EFI and every bolt on out there barely make 130whp, while throwing a fan belt, and leaking oil

on the topic of ratios, what i have works ok, the honda motor has no issue singing along at 3400 rpms on the highway.

Below are some pictures of what i had to do to make the honda bell housing/clutch work!

Clutch with extended spline



Stopper put on input spline to prevent it from sliding to far towards the flywheel


Bell housing on gearbox, not cut made in trans to make room for the starter


Trans without bell housing installed



Anuther angle of bell housing installed on transmission



here is the area i had to have cut to center the new bell housing, and to be used to trans clearance

Are the images i just posted working properly??

MikeDTuning wrote:Are the images i just posted working properly??

Look good from here

MikeDTuning wrote:Are the images i just posted working properly??

I had trouble viewing them yesterday in IE but not Chrome.

Thanks for putting those up Mike . They're coming through fine on my windows 7 in IE . So I swear it looks like you welded the acura bell housing to the top of the vair transaxle . I haven't done much welding in my time but I would assume the honda housing is aluminum . This has me a bit perplexed .

i had to install a spacer on the top of the bell housing to make sure everything stayed "in line" what is welded is the steel spacer plate. not the bell housing

its probably time for an update

The new input spline came in earlier this week, and i have installed it, and put about 100 miles on it so far,, Overall, it fixed many of the issues i was having, so although it cost $$$ it was well spent. Below is what the Spline looks like



i remember how much i miss driving this scar, Rolling burnouts area riot

Mike d

sp after a few good months, and many miles of driving, i think all the major drive train issues are sorted,

Here is the hit list for this winter

-louvered engine cover (being done now) as well as some paint work on a few other panels that need some help
-Rack and pinion steering (I would really love a good parts list for this one, i have heard people use Mustang 2 racks???)
-Convertible top
- rear spring spacers. Under high acceleration/turning i am getting some rub
-Wheel bearings on all 4 corners
-Turn the turbo past 6psi?? the car is already pretty fast at 6lbs, im sure anuther 4 would only add to the fun

I've also fouind that rear camber was shifting during hard cornering, it looks like the main cause was the drivetrian rocking back and fourth Below is a support i made which seams to get rid of a lot of the problems

Nice update

I figured it was time to put it on the dyno, and see what it makes! overall i am very happy with the results

Running at 6psi, on a junkyard turbo from a saab 9000, it made 183 Wheel hp, and 167 wheel torque,, If we account for 15% drive-train loss that is 210 Crank horsepower, and 192 crank torque. Once i get the steering sorted out, i plan to add anuther 6-8 psi which should put me around 250whp. I cant wait!


below is a link to a video of it on the rollers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=390sd1ApW08" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


Mike D

Watched the video on the dyno...so much power it blew the O2 sensor out of the tali pipe!

Glad to see you're still making improvements.

Second dyno video;;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qjRJyYUNbyc" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

i turned the boost up yesterday, Things just got real.