Corvair Forum

Ok, I got the new bearing from Clarks and the shaft on it was longer on than the one on the original bearing. I figured this was not an issue as the excess shaft would be recessed in the engine cover and there didn't seem to be a shoulder or lip to stop the shaft from going through. Here is the original (short shaft) bearing and the new (long shaft) Clarks bearing with the flange pressed onto it.



Here is what happened when I tried to press the bearing in to the engine cover.



After the fact, it seems there was more lip than I thought.



Here are my questions:

1. Is the longer shaft the issue? Should I have called Clarks and tried to get a short shaft bearing? Did I order wrong?

2. Am I going to have the same problem if I get another engine cover that needs a a shorter shaft? Is there an engine cover that takes the longer shaft with no problem?

3. Does anyone have an extra engine cover? How much do these cost? Will early or late matter? Although the car is a 63, the engine is a 65.

4. A I a dumbass for breaking my stuff?

I heat the top up a bit with a torch before I press the new ones in..
Just my .02

Were are you located? I have a 64 engine cover, I just swapped over to a late model engine cover for the bigger bearing. From what I understand 65 and up use a different bearing. Also according to most of the articles I have read, you should heat the cover up pretty good before inserting the new bearing.

Nope, I didn't apply heat. Figured since I had a press it would slide right in! Wrong! By the way, I am in Atlanta. I think I will need a late cover for this bearing to fit. Don't think the 64 will work?! I'm not sure.

HEAT!

Clark's Corvair Parts offers a used top cover without the bearing or a top cover with a new bearing properly installed, with approximately a $60 core charge that is refunded upon receipt of a serviceable core top cover.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... ow_page=15

They differentiate between a 1962-1964 top cover and a 1965-1969 top cover.

You could also likely buy a good used top cover from a source like the Corvair Ranch.

http://corvairranch.com

Since you already have a new bearing, a broken top cover, and the uncertainty of how to install the bearing without damaging the aluminum casting, perhaps a phone call to one of these sources might reveal the optimum solution. (I would suggest shipping your new bearing unit to a selected top cover source, and pay them for a good used top cover for your engine model year and for professionally installing your bearing in the replacement top cover).

Wonder How much he could get for his core? If you look at the new bearing you can see score marks on it from the resistance from pressing it in,when you heat the cover and chill the bearing,the hot aluminum expands and the cold steel shrinks making an easier press fit and does not score the metal on either part,once the aluminum top cover bearing surface is broached the bearing will eventually move when the engine gets hot and the top cover is ruined. ALSO, your top cover has 4 extra holes in it at each end? was the baffle cut under the cover and screwed on to the top?

Yes, the baffle was screwed to the top. I suppose that is not normal?

NOPE! that is an old racers trick to only use one gasket when removing the cover,show a pic of the baffle plate? get a new top cover with baffle as that old modded one should be replaced as well,,a lot of the trimmed baffle plates got sucked into the crank!

Heat. AND, support the top cover directly under the bearing, not along the mounting surface.