HELP! 65 Monza 110 dying

[65corvaircopnj]

I am at my wits' end with my ride! It is as stated above a stock 110 with 4 spd. I have changed plugs, points, cap, gas, rebuilt carbs, new regulator, get good spark, changed the timing +\-, and had the alt bench tested.

Here is what happens - it fires up just fine, drives for about 5-10 mins and starts to stutter, cough, misfire, and eventually just loses power and dies. The engine compartment is super hot but no idiot temp light goes on. My next plan is to yank the shrouds and make sure no critters stuffed the fins full of nests over winter then pull the oil pan to make sure nothing is stuck in the sump. Any ideas guys?

It has been perfect top-down weather and I don't want to walk home AGAIN from my Vair! Thanks in advance.

Chris

[Bobby65]

have you changed the coil and condenser? i have had a bad rotor give me the exact same problem, the car would start fine then i could drive a few mins and it would die, i later had a condenser go bad and i caused a similar problem, you say you have good spark? is that when it wont restart? it still could be a condenser, or it could be a fuel related, have you checked the sock on the sending unit in the tank, or your fuel filters? one more thing is, do you have a vented gas cap? i do not and sometimes my car will randomly stall (happened twice) and its cause there is a vacuum in the tank and the engine cant pull gas, so next time it dies go take off your gas cap and if you hear a "woosh" then you most likely found your problem

[scottydont]

x2 on checking the fuel system. Check filters, check fuel pump for good measure. Depending on how long you've had the car, maybe go looking for an aftermarket filter that the PO added somewhere in the fuel line which might have clogged up. Also, check any old flex lines to see if they're getting porous and sucking air. What you're experiencing sounds a lot like either vapor locking or a weak fuel pump to me. How are your fuel lines routed? You could always try moving or insulating the fuel lines anyplace they come close to the engine or exhaust to see if that helps.

Next time it happens, look down the top of a carb and pump the throttle before you try to restart the car. If you're vapor locking or have weak fuel delivery for some other reason, there's a chance the float bowls will be empty and the acc pump wont spray. For vapor locking, this can remedy itself as the engine sits because as the fuel boils it can "percolate" and bubble up the line, refilling the float bowls, so the car will start perfectly or even be flooded the next time you turn the key.

Take off a fuel line and turn the engine over once or twice to check the flow of the fuel pump. I'm not familiar with the mechanical vair pumps (I put an electric on mine almost before anything else) but most mechanical fuel pumps will push a good solid stream of fuel with each pump. If it just bubbles out or if you don't get at least a table spoon or two of fuel with each pulse, I'd suspect the pump might be bad.

[65corvaircopnj]

Thanks guys. I'm looking at picking up a pertronix 2. The fuel pump is new last year and I cleaned out the gas tank when it was removed to replace all brake lines 2.5 yrs ago. I've had an inline filter in until I removed it. (Thought it might be clogged) but might put another 'clear' one in to see if debris is still getting in. I do have a locking gas cap but never noticed a vacuum when opening. I'm to the point of sending it away to the local old car guy and getting some enjoyment instead of grief! Thanks again

[ronsouthan]

I agree with Bobby65, sounds like the coil breaks down when hot.