Can’t keep engine running

[italiansub52]

My 1965 140 Corsa starts right up, but doesn’t stay running. The engine gets to only about 400 rpm then quits. Can’t increase rpm with accelerator. Timing is supposedly set to 18 degrees BTDC, but I can’t check it without engine running. Any ideas? Firing order wrong?
Thanks for any help.

[Dennis66]

Well firing order should be a total nobrainer to check. It's printed right on the blower shroud and each cylinder has a number on the shroud.
As far as the "won't get above 400 RPMs, all you'll get are guesses. It could be carbs, or it could be ignition. For starters, do you still have stock points? Or has it been converted to electronic?
Are you getting a good strong fuel spray from the accelerator pimps (PUMPS) in the carbs when you manually pump the throttle with the air cleaners off?
So many things it could be, and worse when you have 4 carbs instead of two.

Second cup of coffee consumed and a little closer attention paid to posting

[Torskdoc423]

"Accelerator Pimps"?

[66vairguy]

My 1965 140 Corsa starts right up, but doesn’t stay running. The engine gets to only about 400 rpm then quits. Can’t increase rpm with accelerator. Timing is supposedly set to 18 degrees BTDC, but I can’t check it without engine running. Any ideas? Firing order wrong?
Thanks for any help.

This doesn't add up. Engines don't start up and go to 400 RPM and THEN quit. Also firing order doesn't change UNLESS SOMEONE CHANGED IT! When was the last time the car ran fine and what did you did to it since then????

If the car starts up and QUITS just after you release the ignition key from START to RUN - let us know as there is a fix for that. (This is a "are you a BOT" filter).

[Wittsend]

... If the car starts up and QUITS just after you release the ignition key from START to RUN - let us know as there is a fix for that. ...

My first thought too. The only other thing is there a fuel restriction? Just enough getting through to briefly run?

Italiansub52 what can happen is during cranking the starter bypasses the "regular running" ignition until the key is released. Thus a car can appear to start via the bypass but if the regular ignition is faulty it will die when the key is released from start and the bypass connection ends. BREIFLY jumpering a wire from the positive side of the battery to the + side of the coil will provide continuous voltage to the coil. Note that the coil should not be run this way for any length of time and that turning the ignition switch to off will not stop the engine! The wire has to be disconnected to stop the engine. So these are "do at your own risk" tests. IF the car starts and runs then there is an electrical wiring issue.

The other thing you can do is get gasoline into the float bowls through the carburetor vents. I'd think the bowls will hold about 1-2 ounces. Something like a turkey baster is helpful, don't try and pour it in from a gas can. Again, these are "do at your own risk" tests. If the car starts and runs (briefly 10-15 seconds) then you know it is a fuel delivery problem.

Again, DO NOT TRY THESE UNLESS YOU DETERMINE YOU CAN DO THEM SAFELY.