Adjusting carb float spring

[miatawnt2b]

I've been battling flooding carbs on my 140 for a few months now. I initially found two of the orig floats were full of gas. Purchased 4 new floats from Clarks and re-assembled. Ran for a day and flooded again. Found one of the new floats was full of gas because the pinhole in the side of the float wasn't properly soldered. So I fixed that, and the car ran well again for a week. Last night I pulled out of the garage and the car would barely run and smelled heavy of raw fuel.
I don't know yet which carb is flooding, I didn't have time to diagnose it. I wanted though to discuss the float helper spring and how to adjust it. I read the float is supposed to be almost weightless at full drop. I am pretty certain that my springs are either much too weak or I haven't adjusted them properly. They are installed like the picture in Bob Helt's book. However, when you install them, are you supposed to give them a full twist prior to sliding the pin through or are the springs supposed to have proper tension simply by positioning them correctly and sliding the float pin? How are you supposed to adjust the spring so the float is weightless at full drop?

I am also going to test the fuel pressure as I do have an electric pump, but the pump is rated at 4psi max.
Thanks!
-J

[66vairguy]

Are the float springs original, or new ones from Clark's?? Original springs get a slot worn in the spring shaft were it goes through the float arm hole (very small - hard to see) that will cause the float to bind.

Based on original carburetors, I "adjust" the springs so when the float is at full drop (holding carburetor top in the same position as when it is installed on the carburetor) it is almost weightless, just drops to the stop and a simple touch of the float will make it "booble" a little. I AM NOT SAYING THIS IS CORRECT, just what I observed and it's worked for me when I installed new springs.

The springs should not be rotated for an extra turn. Getting the one leg, near the float valve, in the wrong position is easy to do.

As discussed here before --- the float bowl valves seem to vary in height and if you bend the tang on the float (that pushes the valve needle closed) you have to make sure it moves smoothly as it moves float needle in and out. If it binds the carburetor will flood.

BTW - the reason there is a float drop limit is to keep the float from hitting the bowl floor when the bowl is empty so the float won't bind against the bowl floor.

[Frank DuVal]

I've started filing the area where the notch is worn, as most every spring seems to have that notch these days. Yes, it makes the wire thinner, but it already was thin and without the sharp edge of a notch should tend to break less.

I agree on spring adjustment, just enough to bobble the float at drop. Or maybe not quite reach full drop.