shocks and springs 65 Corsa

[Jake]

I've got my 65 Corsa convertible out of storage and I'm getting ready to get some things done.

It's running great but It doesn't ride great. It tends to bottom out, especially if I've got a couple of people in it with me.
I'm not a racer or anything but I am looking for it to perform as well as it can. The car originally had a 180 Turbo but now has a very strong, well running 110.
I know you don't want stiff springs and shocks on a convertible so I'm wondering if anyone has any experience with this particular set up.
I'm planning on using Clarks for my parts because they're pretty local to me.
My original plan was Clarks Heavy Duty Convertible specific springs (they supposedly lower the car a little bit and improve handling over stock convertible springs) my real question is about the shocks. Again convertibles demand a softer set up and I'm wonder ing if the gas shocks, either Clarks or Koni are the right choice.

I'm not married to the HD Spring idea, just something that sounds good to me as its supposed to improve handling, also I'm a pretty big guy and better springs makes sense to me.
I know shocks and springs have been discussed here plenty but I couldn't really find an answer to this specific question.
How are the gas shocks, either the Clarks stock gas ones or the Koni ones, on a convertible?
or are the stock original Clark shocks and springs the way to go?

Thanks for any info!
Its greatly appreciated.

[66vairguy]

I run stiffer shocks on my 4 door 66 (the old Clark's adjustable no longer made), but I run stock springs. Handles well, but a little harsh on rough roads.

On my 66 convertible I set the shocks on the SOFTER setting and use stock springs. The convertible body is not as torsionally stiff as the fixed roof cars. Stiffer springs and shocks need a stiffer platform to work and with a convertible the body just "gives" essentially negating the stiffer springs and shocks. Also on rough roads the body "give" from a stiffer suspension results in greater cowl shake and door "jiggling" (there is a reason the Corvair convertible has door "shims" and the fixed roof cars do not).

The convertible body can be modified to be stiffer (in addition to the factory welded in additional braces), but then you have a car heavier than the coupe which is a negative when racing.

Note: it is common wisdom the LM convertible bodies were NOT as torsionally stiff as the EM convertibles.

Over the years I've found superior tires (wider and stickier) make a car handle better than a stiff suspension. Just me -----

[Jake]

That all makes sense.
Guess I'm really wondering how stiff their Heavy Duty convertible shocks are.

[Jake]

...and also ask just how adjustable the gas shocks, both stock Clarks and Konis are.

[gbullman]

I did Clark’s standard convertible springs and gas charged shocks all around on my 66 Corsa Convertible. I love the ride and handling, even on washboard highways. I’m running 14x7 wheels with 215/60 R14 tires. I really push the car in turns and it just sticks. Attached photo is how it sits when the springs were on about 6-8 months, some time to settle.

[66vairguy]

That all makes sense.
Guess I'm really wondering how stiff their Heavy Duty convertible shocks are.

I do not know who stiff they are, I bet someone here has the factory load rating.

IF the front springs are NOT cut then I don't change them. Corvairs sat a little high in the front when new to meet the trunk load capacity. Over the years the rear springs seem to sag more vs. the fronts. Most don't like the "nose up" attitude and cut a coil off the front spring (which makes them stiffer).

I ONLY change the rear springs to new standard springs (note convertible springs have a higher load rating due to the weight of the top mechanism) and leave the original front springs as is (if not cut or damaged). This results in an even stance, no nose high attitude.

Unlike many 60's cars, the Corvair did not ride too SOFT, in fact at the time the ride was highly regarded by magazine testers as a good balance between ride and handling. I'll add that in my younger days I installed stiff springs in cars and ended up with what I call "Ricky Racer" ride. Harsh and the car jumped around on rough roads making it a handful in wavy pavement corners. Only handled good on very smooth pavement - like at the track. Unpleasant for daily driving.

[Jake]

Thanks so much for all the info guys.

This is what I think I'll be going with.
New Stock Convertible springs in the rear, I'm going to leave the front springs as they are.
Clarks Gas shocks front and back.

[gbullman]

Think you’re making good choices, just make sure the front springs don’t have any helpers. I was going to do the same but discovered my left front had helpers in it.

[66vairguy]

Think you’re making good choices, just make sure the front springs don’t have any helpers. I was going to do the same but discovered my left front had helpers in it.

Agreed - that is why I mentioned to check for "cut" front springs. If cut, then I find a good pair of original springs.

[Jake]

I also have to mention I need to install the rear cocktail shaker/dampers this weekend.
The fronts are in.

I'd like to think the dampers and the new shocks and springs should have an affect on the ride.

Can't wait to get it all done and report the difference.

My only reluctance in installing the dampers is the passenger side lower mounting surface, where the bottom of the damper is bolted in, behind the brake lights is rock solid, absolutely good as new, but the driver side mounting metal just aft of the battery isn't quite as perfect.
It just a bit corroded, thinner and not as solid as the other side.

Part of me thinks it could be a waste of time bolting the damper to a bottom tray thats not perfectly solid, compared to the other side. I imagine anchoring and balance is pretty vital to the function of the dampers
Anyone have any thoughts on that?

The car is basically rust free and I'm not looking forward to replacing a "pretty good" piece of metal to make the mounting surface for the damper "perfect"

[Jake]

You guys with a 65 Corsa convertible...

Is there any difference between the gauge of the metal on the passenger and driver side rear tray where the dampers are mounted?
I said the metal was perfect on the passenger side and "corroded" on the driver side but thats barely correct.
The metal on the drivers side is thinner and seems less solid but it doesn't seem damaged or particularly rusted.

The passenger side just seems thicker and more solid and the driver side seems just a bit thinner and flimsier.

[66vairguy]

Clark's list that panel c9161, but it is out of stock (most likely forever). It was a popular item along with the battery tray that are usually rusted out.

On the convertible the tray has extra material to support the welded nuts the damper bolts go into.

I'd get up under the car and examine it. If it is just surface rust on both sides it should be fine. If badly rusted you'll have to weld in new steel.

[Jake]

I have taken a pretty good look and it just seems kinda surface corroded.

I'm going to go ahead and install the dampers and see how it feels.

Thanks for the input.

[Jake]

I just took another quick look (in the rain here in Boston) and the metal still feels very solid, it just doesn't look as "finished" as its opposite number on the passenger side.

Hopefully I'll find the time tomorrow to mount the dampers and really tell.

[66vairguy]

I just took another quick look (in the rain here in Boston) and the metal still feels very solid, it just doesn't look as "finished" as its opposite number on the passenger side.

Hopefully I'll find the time tomorrow to mount the dampers and really tell.

You never know what someone did to an old car before you got it. Eventually you will want to remove ALL the rust or it will eventually win out.

The battery side tends to get corroded due to the battery leaking. I found a solid West coast car and the battery tray and lower fender were rusted away due to a leaking battery while it was in storage. This is why Clark's sells the patch panels.

I always buy good batteries and put a vinyl catch tray under them.

[chris]

I installed the Clark's regular shocks in my car (LM coupe and previously in a LM 4 door). Of course, they're great quality and were easy to install. For being the regular (not gas) shocks, they were a bit stiffer than I anticipated but I'm okay with that.