Rear Motor Mount

[Monzaguy]

65 Monza with a 95HP and PG. Slowly replacing worn out stuff. Took a good look at the rear MM and it looks to me like it is definitely shot, but I have nothing to compare it to, would appreciate feedback on the pics.
Checked Clarks and it seems 65 was a one off year for this mount, but the 66 thru 69 MM is a viable replacement. Looking at the 1965 service manual, it looks like an easy swap, however service manuals assume you are an experienced Corvair mechanic. When the engine is dropped a bit to replace the MM, do any fuel lines or other items need to be disconnected to avoid damage? As always, I appreciate the help this forum has given me over the years, Mark.

MM1.jpg (31.16 KiB) Viewed 290 times

MM2.jpg (74.92 KiB) Viewed 290 times

[Spectre]

No need to disconnect anything, you’re just going to lower maybe 2 inches.

[erco]

Yep, it's shot, so kiss $140 goodbye for a 66-69 style.

Easy to replace, just get a jack and a 2x6 under your oil pan to hold the motor up while you replace it. No need to disconnect any lines or linkages IIRC, you just lower the motor enough to clear the 2 downward studs on the motor mount.

[66vairguy]

Yep, it's shot, so kiss $140 goodbye for a 66-69 style.

Easy to replace, just get a jack and a 2x6 under your oil pan to hold the motor up while you replace it. No need to disconnect any lines or linkages IIRC, you just lower the motor enough to clear the 2 downward studs on the motor mount.

Please don't put a 2X6 under the oil pan to hold up engine. Some of the engines I have dismantled had the oil pump pick up "squashed" from someone holding the engine up via the oil pan. Use the rear skid plate.

[Frank DuVal]

Once the four bolts are out of the mount just lift it up, no need to lower the engine....

Of course this is after you support the engine (avoid the oil pan, use the rear bracket), remove the rear air grille, remove the cover over the two nuts, and possibly remove the oil filter for easier access).

The hardest part of this is removing and replacing the rear air grille.

Every other fastener should be easy to get to.

[RexJohnson]

A block of wood all the way across will not hurt the pan but I'm sure some people would be capable of hurting it. You do not want to lower the engine but raise it up. As you are removing the nuts off of the 2 studs the body is raising up from the engine if the tires are still holding up the car. I have changed motor mounts without removing the rear grille. It is harder to do the mount but easier than replacing the grille.

[Monzaguy]

Thanks for all the quick responses, very helpful. Got the order in to Clarks today and with luck all the snow will be gone by the time they get here. I appreciate all the help from this forum, Mark

[gbullman]

All good advice, the 66 and up mount supersedes the one off 65 mount. Taking the grill off and putting it back on is a pain but doable, don’t remember how accessible the lower nuts are with the grill in place. My preference is to support the engine under the heavy skid plate in the rear, your mileage may vary.

Hope it goes smoothly.

[dryenko]

Once the four bolts are out of the mount just lift it up, no need to lower the engine....

[Monzaguy]

All good advice, the 66 and up mount supersedes the one off 65 mount. Taking the grill off and putting it back on is a pain but doable, don’t remember how accessible the lower nuts are with the grill in place. My preference is to support the engine under the heavy skid plate in the rear, your mileage may vary.

Hope it goes smoothly.

Yeah, had the grill off once, was not fun.

[Monzaguy]

Once the four bolts are out of the mount just lift it up, no need to lower the engine....

Thank you sir

[Dennis66]

But you have to support the rear of the engine. Dennis