New Choke Rod Install

[Rider62]

Hi Everyone,

My choke rod coupler broke off, so I'll like to install a new one. Since I already installed a new choke coil with new rivets, I'd hate to drill it out again just to install the new rod. Even the old rod seems hard to remove without removing the coil. Any suggestions would be appriciated.
Thanks![[/img]

[davemotohead]

Well first of all you never drill those rivets out in the first place, they are not a standard rivet they are a spiral push in rivet, you pry the T-Stat up a little then grab the head of the rivet with a small vice grip and twist and pull and they come out, you can reuse them. there is only one rivet per T-stat and the other hole is the lower shroud bolt.

[Frank DuVal]

They are Drive Rivets. Used to hold electric motor nameplates on. You can also start under the head with a small cold chisel. That’s what we used in the motor shop. Then grab with small Vise grips or linesman pliers with good teeth. Reused them all the time.

Just a good hint for the day from us.

[66vairguy]

What others said. The rivet just needs to hold the choke coil in place until the sheet metal bolt goes in. DO NOT DRILL THE RIVET OUT or you will go off center and end up with another hole in the softer aluminum!!!

Getting the new choke rod in the coil with our removing the coil is unlikely, at best you'll bend up the coil bracket. I've seen it.

[m37aswell]

I did get the rod into the coil without removing that coil but it was tricky and a royal pain. It can be done if you want to spend the time to do it that way. Much easier to just back the rivet out, if it is still there, if I remember right someone had hammered some sort of stud or nail into the head. It actually looked good but would have been tough to remove.

[Rider62]

Thanks guys, I'll try again this weekend.

[Frank DuVal]

"if I remember right someone had hammered some sort of stud or nail into the head."

You mean the factory drive rivet I mean screw? Looks like a round head screw with NO slot/cross/hex hole.

OK, years have clouded my memory, these are Drive SCREWS, not rivets...

Drive rivets have those protrusions one hammers in to set...

https://www.rivetsonline.com/drive-screws

[Rider62]

Wow, that was easy enough.

[Rider62]

Now I have the choke rod installed with the upper rod all screwed in, the assy is too long (about 1/2") I've notices this before in a previous build. The choke rod is not easy to bend and break easily.

[Dennis66]

The choke rod is supposed to go up past he closed position for the choke plate. The tension is what closes the plate. What you need to do is install, warm up, and make sure the choke is fully open after it is warmed up. That is what the adjustment is for. Dennis

[Frank DuVal]

There are two different length upper and lower rods. Clarks only sells one length. AFAIK. If you have to bend the upper rod to shorten it a lot, take it off the car first and bend then reinstall. Otherwise it can break leaving the screw portion in the lower rod.

[manvair]

If it is threaded all the way in in your picture, I'd cut off some of the threaded end.

[Rider62]

Thanks Guys, this helps me alot!

[66vairguy]

See attached link to an article here about the different choke coil and rods. Last time I checked the Clark's catalog INCORRECTLY listed what choke coils and rods work together!!!!

See viewtopic.php?t=18072

[Rider62]

[davemotohead]

I explain all this in the video I posted at the top of this thread, there are 2 different choke coils, 3 different center rods and 2 different upper rods. you must use the correct parts for whatever choke coil you have.