Longer Wheel Studs

[erco]

After 43 years of running stock steel 13" wheels I finally got some nice 14" wheels. Need 1/2" longer studs. Never replaced studs before. WikiHow says to use a ball joint puller, is that kosher advice?

I have a press, so I can probably use that for the fronts but the rears may be irksome.

A quick search here implies that "wheel studs" is a loaded topic so TIA for any tips on what to get and how to replace.

https://www.wikihow.com/Replace-Stud-on ... %20tighten.

[m37aswell]

After I installed Torque-thrust Ds on my 65 Corvair I found nice black lug nuts on Ebay that reach further back into this thicker wheel. They have a longer "shank".

[erco]

Like zeeez? https://www.ebay.com/itm/113137177566

[Dennis66]

I've replaced a LOT of studs. Everything from lawnmowers to heavy equipment. We used to pull all 4 wheels on our police cruisers every PM, which was every 30 days, so we went through a lot of studs there too. Just did one on my daughter's Subaru Saturday (part of a project which kept me away from my Corvair). My preferred method is a whack or two to remove the old stud, align the splines of the new stud with the splines in the hole, lightly grease the threads, use the stacked washers like they say, and I reverse the lug nut so the flat face is against the washer rather than the tapered face. I also lightly grease the face. I then hand tighten until it is pulled up tight against the hub.
A note on lugs, lug nuts, hubs and wheels: The center of the wheel should fit tightly against the protruding hub. This is what supports the weight of the vehicle. This is also a reason I don't use aftermarket wheels or Uni-lug wheels (unless aftermarket has the tight fitting hub hole). The tapered end of the lug nut and the tapered hole in the rims also tend to compress the lug nut threads, which wears out the stud threads. For this reason you should not grease them, not use an impact, and follow torque recommendations. For impacts, there are "Torque Sticks" which flex at a given torque so they can't be overtorqued (this cut way back on replacing Police studs). Dennis

[66vairguy]

I've replaced a LOT of studs. Everything from lawnmowers to heavy equipment. We used to pull all 4 wheels on our police cruisers every PM, which was every 30 days, so we went through a lot of studs there too. Just did one on my daughter's Subaru Saturday (part of a project which kept me away from my Corvair). My preferred method is a whack or two to remove the old stud, align the splines of the new stud with the splines in the hole, lightly grease the threads, use the stacked washers like they say, and I reverse the lug nut so the flat face is against the washer rather than the tapered face. I also lightly grease the face. I then hand tighten until it is pulled up tight against the hub.
A note on lugs, lug nuts, hubs and wheels: The center of the wheel should fit tightly against the protruding hub. This is what supports the weight of the vehicle. This is also a reason I don't use aftermarket wheels or Uni-lug wheels (unless aftermarket has the tight fitting hub hole). The tapered end of the lug nut and the tapered hole in the rims also tend to compress the lug nut threads, which wears out the stud threads. For this reason you should not grease them, not use an impact, and follow torque recommendations. For impacts, there are "Torque Sticks" which flex at a given torque so they can't be overtorqued (this cut way back on replacing Police studs). Dennis

A good description! The one issue that complicates things is serious rust. I'll add that with a wheel that is thicker were the lugs holes are, need a longer reach lug nut that is preferred to a longer lug stud. I've had a few buddies that used "UNI-LUG" wheels and if they DO NOT fit snug on the spindle center protrusion (rear axle flange also has a protrusion) then the wheels tend to go off center and cause vibrations!!! Some companies sell plastic center rings to make the wheel center hole fit, but I have my doubts about durability. Just me.

[Dennis66]

I may have mentioned it here before. I had a '68 Chevelle Malibu convertible. I put a set of Keystone Classic mags on it (Uni-Lug). I had taken the car from St Pete to Lakeland several times during the course of a week (about 50 miles each way). I'm driving across town doing 35 MPH when thump, thump, and my right front wheel departs from the car. All 5 lugs sheared off. The 3 we found still had the lug nuts on them. Put in new lugs, put the spare (steel) on, and within a week I switched to GM rally wheels. Dennis

[Doug L]

In general thicker aluminum wheels should use longer, reduced shank lug nuts and should not need longer studs. Some like these from Amazon. These are not for uni lug wheels, but are for typical lug nut centered aftermarket wheels.

[Whozaa]

I'm running modern cast wheels(with 5mm spacers) on my EM and needed longer studs. Dorman 610-186 worked well for me. I forget the specs, but you can look them up if interested.

To remove , I used my shop press on the front hubs and a harbor freight ball joint press (looks like a super heavy duty c-clamp) on the rear hubs.

[Amagalla]

To remove the old studs, put an old lug nut on the stud and thread till the top of the stud is flush with the top of the nut. Pound it out with a 4lb mallet hammer. Should take 2 or three swings. To install, first freeze the new lugs, then feed them in from the back and draw them them into place by tightening a lug nut on till it's in as far as it can go. Replacing each stud should take about 3 min.

Hope that helps.

Tony

[davemotohead]

I use a air chisel/hammer and they pop right out. Takes 2 seconds and much better for the wheel bearing than beating them with a hammer.

[erco]

I use a air chisel/hammer and they pop right out. Takes 2 seconds and much better for the wheel bearing than beating them with a hammer.

Perfect, easier than I thought. TYVM Dave for this and all your amazing videos.