PG O Ring Replacement

[Monzaguy]

My O ring on the PG shift cable needs replacement. I have read my service manual, and watched Larry Claypools video on the PG. Neither have made the replacing clear to me, so I need some help. I am assuming that you remove the bolt on the bracket to remove the cable, at that point I am stumped. There is a ball at the end of the cable that gets unhooked from something inside to be able to pull it out and slide the new O ring on. Does the trans pan need to be removed to gain access to disconnect then reconnect the cable after putting on the O ring? And does the shift selector need to be in a certain gear before disconnect of the cable? Thanks in advance for help. Mark

[bbodie52]

The second page of the attached Servicing the Corvair Powerglide Transmission - Part 2 illustrates removing and reattaching the control cable for the Powerglide. This may help you.

The attached manual, Corvair Powerglide Automatic Transmission Service Guide - PART 1 OF 5 also has instructions on the removal and reattachment of the Powerglide control cable. These instructions (beginning on the bottom of page 3-L) may be helpful.

[davemotohead]

It's a relatively simple thing to do that constantly gets screwed up. Also it might not be the O-Ring leaking but rather the cable itself as they all leak, even the new ones, we will address that as well.

1st you must disconnect the throttle linkages on both sides of the TV lever sticking out of the transmission.

2nd you want to clean the area that the cable goes into the transmission, most times it's filthy and you need a screwdriver or small putty knife to remove all the built up dirt and grime on top where the cable goes into the trans, you don't want to get dirt in the hole and inside the trans when you remove the cable so clean the area really good.

3rd you want to put the shift lever on the dash into Drive.

4th take the small retaining bolt out that holds the cable into the transmission and pull the cable out, be prepared for some transmission fluid to come out the hole, if you jack the front end up there will be less, but always some, once the cable is out pull it through the hole in the trans crossmember to free it up from the assembly completely so it hangs from where it comes out of the belly pan and is free from everything.

5th Clean the cable really well the entire length from where it comes out of the belly pan to the end including the metal all the way to where it goes into the transmission, Where the cable goes from plastic to metal is most times where your leak is coming from and not the actual O-ring.

6th, Once the cable is cleaned and free of all dirt and oil, Wrap the cable with Genuine self fusing "Rescue Tape" Start on the metal about 2 inches from the joint to plastic, Wrap the tape around itself at the end and overlap the tape as you go up the cable, Stretching the tape as you go, I mean really stretch the stuff and wrap it tight, Having someone hold the end of the cable to make the cable easier to wrap helps, but Stretch and Overlap all the way from the metal starting point to where the cable goes into the tunnel pan, wrap the entire exposed cable. Stretching the Rescue tape is what activates it and it will fuse together making a tight seal that will last the life of the cable, ya Rescue Tape is good stuff.

( I don't recommend the method Claypool uses, splitting a piece of rubber hose and filling it with sealer is a temporary fix for cable leaks IMO, as I have fixed a lot of them done that way, the Rescue Tape is the solution. )

7th once everything has been cleaned and the tape in place, replace the O-ring and put a little grease around it so it will slide in the hole and seal easier, Once you get the cable through the trans crossmember and in place, make sure its still in Drive on the dash. Grab the TV lever and rotate it all the way counterclockwise until it stops, you might feel a little spring tension 3/4 of the way but rotate it all the way until it stops, hold it there with one hand and slide the cable into the hole and you will notice it hits the TV lever and starts to move it clockwise, push the cable in until it stops and the TV lever will now be in its normal position and the cable ball end should be captured in the trans shifter mechanism. Put the retaining bolt in place and reconnect the throttle linkages.

Once back on the ground start it up and check the trans fluid level and top it off if its low, then check that all gears work, if you followed these instructions it should shift fine, All these instructions are in the shop manual as well but people constantly screw this up and end up and needlessly removing the pan to get the cable captured, I have never had to remove a pan to do this, most times people do not rotate the TV lever all the way counterclockwise, OR they don't have the Shift lever in drive.

[Monzaguy]

Thank you Brad and Dave, both of you have helped me out several times. And Dave, your videos are great! Thanks, Mark

[Monzaguy]

Just wanted to follow up on the repair. The O Ring was indeed sort of squashed, and the shift cable had been previously repaired at some point with the Claypool fix. Both were leaking. The car has been sitting awhile due to NE winters, and I have been checking the cardboard under the fixes for awhile and am thrilled there is no puddle. The rescue tape is holding. Thanks again for the help, Mark.

[davemotohead]

Cool thanks for the update!

[Rick4130]

Excellent write up Dave!!

[erco]

Great detail, davemotohead! That would make a great video!

For reference, below is the Claypool repair video you mentioned. I'd add several zip ties around the split hose, or mebbe fuel line clamps to help seal and hold it in place.