1963 Chevrolet Corvair Monza Convertible

[carking1996]

I just bought another Vair. This time, a 1963 Monza convertible. Car is extremely solid! It was stored for 30+ years. It runs but has a vacuum leak I gotta fix (I saw a diagram for that somewhere on this forum). It was in my budget and the guys who sold it to me were great people. The strap underneath is holding a tarp on top as it'll have to be outside for a couple days. :)

[Scott H]

I like it!

[bbodie52]

New Member Joining the Vair World
Post by carking1996 » Wed Dec 15, 2021 7:35 am

Hi everyone. My name is Paul and I just am joining the Corvair world. I have met a lot of great people on Facebook groups so far and just joined CORSA recently. I will be attending events next year. I don't have a Corvair yet but do have plans to purchase one within the year. [/quote]

» Sat Dec 04, 2021 2:52 pm

Hi everyone. I decided to make a new post with more information. I am looking to buy my first Corvair. Looking for a 60-64 sedan or coupe. I am in OH and willing to drive to MI, PA, IN, KY, WV, and NY. I am looking for a driver that needs work as I'll be personalizing a car to my tastes...

» Fri Apr 01, 2022 3:58 pm

Hi all. I got my first Corvair recently. Drove it almost 250 miles home with a buddy following. It drives very well and I have driven it to work a handful of times this week already. Needs some floor repair. Overall good shape.

[carking1996]

Absolutely.

Some progress. I got to drive it a bit around the yard. I started to return the carbs and they're pretty well-synced by the looks of it (I also have the Uni-Sync tool). It won't idle well and I believe the issue is with the choke coils, so I ordered some of those to replace. The chokes won't hold open when the engine was cold, no matter what they were set at. Hopefully replacing those will fix the problem.

[carking1996]

After decoding the body tag, it seems my car was originally Satin Silver with a white top and red interior.

Similar to this 64.

[carking1996]

Update :)

So I got it to idle warm. Only thing now, is I think there's a vacuum leak on the right carb (after I took it apart to clean it, it started)? I have a video here and you can hear the hiss. It runs okay so far, although I think the idle is I think a bit high as it likes to really move when you put it into drive and reverse.

Reversed it out of my garage. :)

Video (weird "Shorts" think Youtube did by itself, sorry I can't embed it here):

[carking1996]

Great news for my 63 Monza vert! After a lot of research and discussion on some Facebook groups, some people gave a few suggestions on what to do next.

I tried a few things that were suggested and also did a thing of my own:

- Adjusted left carb float (I adjusted the right one when I replaced the bad float, didn't get to the left one yet. It's now per spec).
- Blocked off the PCV valve port on the balance tube (was told it can cause a vacuum leak)
- Adjusted timing clockwise (retarding it a bit I was told? Still new to timing)

Then I started to adjust the idle. I got it around 750 right now in neutral. It does not stall anymore when put into drive and it no longer shoots off quickly, so I was able to smoothly drive it into the garage (even with the right front brake locking up and skidding down a little hill in front of the garage) and it ran great!

The next step are working on the brakes!

[Dennis66]

Familiar with drum brakes? From the experience on mine, the drums are riveted to the hubs (unless drilled out by previous owners). Yo umight need to back off the adjustment through the little slot on the back to get the drum / hub off. Dennis

[66vairguy]

Great news for my 63 Monza vert! After a lot of research and discussion on some Facebook groups, some people gave a few suggestions on what to do next.

I tried a few things that were suggested and also did a thing of my own:

- Adjusted left carb float (I adjusted the right one when I replaced the bad float, didn't get to the left one yet. It's now per spec).
- Blocked off the PCV valve port on the balance tube (was told it can cause a vacuum leak)
- Adjusted timing clockwise (retarding it a bit I was told? Still new to timing)

Then I started to adjust the idle. I got it around 750 right now in neutral. It does not stall anymore when put into drive and it no longer shoots off quickly, so I was able to smoothly drive it into the garage (even with the right front brake locking up and skidding down a little hill in front of the garage) and it ran great!

The next step are working on the brakes!

The joke around our club is you want the WRONG information go to a Corvair Facebook group. I doubt it is that bad, but there are a number of ill informed folks on there posing as "experts".

The Postitive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system works well, does not ruin the engine. It is passive and unless the engine has a lot of ring blow-by it will not affect engine performance. The carburetors were designed to allow for the very minor metered air leak. If the tubing is all good and there is not crud build up in the system it should be hooked up. The 1963 Corvair used a PCV valve similiar to other GM engines. In 1964 (except A/C cars) the PCV valve was replaced with a fixed orifice. Both have to be cleaned periodically per the manual (PCV valve can be replaced).

See article on this site in DIY section --- viewtopic.php?t=18023

[carking1996]

The joke around our club is you want the WRONG information go to a Corvair Facebook group. I doubt it is that bad, but there are a number of ill informed folks on there posing as "experts".

The Postitive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) system works well, does not ruin the engine. It is passive and unless the engine has a lot of ring blow-by it will not affect engine performance. The carburetors were designed to allow for the very minor metered air leak. If the tubing is all good and there is not crud build up in the system it should be hooked up. The 1963 Corvair used a PCV valve similiar to other GM engines. In 1964 (except A/C cars) the PCV valve was replaced with a fixed orifice. Both have to be cleaned periodically per the manual (PCV valve can be replaced).

See article on this site in DIY section --- viewtopic.php?t=18023

Thank you! I think the hose and/or valve were causing a larger vacuum leak (than intended). I’m going to buy a new valve and install new hose for it. It should improve some things. The hose was old and pretty dry. Was likely an issue causing some leaks.

[carking1996]

Well I think I have finally found the main culprit to my issues.

After it idled okay for a couple of days (at 750 RPM, drove well also), it got bad again. I went and changed the inline filter someone put on it. RUST. Tons of rust coming out of the lines. I went to dig deeper and turns out, while they had a new (then) tank, they likely reused the original sending unit and it leaked. I bought a new unit and replaced some of the line. They had a rubber line to the back of the car that connected to the original steel line just underneath the passenger seat (I used NiCopp line for now as I was recommended it, works great). I will be buying a new tank next week.

I siphoned the gas out of the lines (rusty and orange!) until I got clean gas and then cleaned the carbs again. Idles great at 750 RPM again.

[66vairguy]

That was good trouble shooting. I've had folks "rebuild" carburetors multiple times and it won't last. I inspect the gas tank and as you found it is full of rust and crud. Installing an inline fuel filter helps, but the filter can be overwhelmed and either plug up or fail.

Changing a fuel tank and fuel lines is a lot of work, but worth it in the long run. I did it on both of the Corvairs I bought.

Next you need to bleed the brake system and if you get rust you might as well do the brake lines and master/wheel cylinders.

BTW -- the front passenger brake line runs above the fuel tank on the LM cars and I'm not sure now, but I recall it also runs above the fuel tank on the 63. As long as you are replacing the fuel tank I suggest replacing that brake line while you can get at it. Sooner or later that line will rust and fail.

[carking1996]

That was good trouble shooting. I've had folks "rebuild" carburetors multiple times and it won't last. I inspect the gas tank and as you found it is full of rust and crud. Installing an inline fuel filter helps, but the filter can be overwhelmed and either plug up or fail.

Changing a fuel tank and fuel lines is a lot of work, but worth it in the long run. I did it on both of the Corvairs I bought.

Next you need to bleed the brake system and if you get rust you might as well do the brake lines and master/wheel cylinders.

BTW -- the front passenger brake line runs above the fuel tank on the LM cars and I'm not sure now, but I recall it also runs above the fuel tank on the 63. As long as you are replacing the fuel tank I suggest replacing that brake line while you can get at it. Sooner or later that line will rust and fail.

Absolutely. It was chasing an issue that was "fixed" (as in- carbs were already good to go, the tank/sending unit was the issue) a while ago. I bought a new tank today and cleaned the right carb. It runs great.

Brakes work great! I am going to replace the soft lines. It has a newer single master cylinder that I will eventually replace with Clark's dual master kit. But for now, I want to drive around town with what it has (I don't plan to go more than 5 minutes away). I think the hard brake lines are newer, also it appears. They're in good shape as far as I can tell.

[66vairguy]

If the tank is old I'll bet that one hard line above it was not changed. Be prepared for that. The other hard lines are easier to replace so the one line above the tank is often not changed. I'm assuming the EM has it above the tank like the LM, if not then ignore my advice.

The Clark's LM dual kit has poorly laid out plumbing.

Most folks who have posted use the 67 Corvair dual master cylinder (used on a number of 67 GM cars and any auto parts store can order it). You do not need the warning switch plumbing (there is NO equalizer valve contrary to what some will say - its a low pressure warning lamp switch, NOT a valve).

There have been a number of online Corvair posts on how to add hardware for the rear line plumbing that is neat and tidy and DOES NOT require bending the main rear line that the Clark's kit requires!!!

[carking1996]

Changed the gas tank and affiliated parts with it. Got to drive it out for the first time yesterday.

[carking1996]

First show with it! Smoked a bit at times as it's leaking oil on one side because the valve cover bolt is a bit loose as PO stripped is, so I will do the recommended fix and use a 1/4" longer bolt which should seal it up well (along with new valve cover gasket).