1966 Corsa Convertible

[66vairguy]

I looked at plumbing in a fuel pressure regulator, but by the time I modify all the lines to add the regulator on the output of the mechanical pump, I decided to make the move to an electric pump. Some fittings are on the way, along with a Revolution Electric fuel pump controller, and some tubing to make new lines to the carbs. I picked up the fuel pump plug from Clark's a while ago and plan to run the lines to the front of the engine bay. I've got a Carter P4070 pump, suggested all over the Internet for the carbs I'm running, and hopefully I can get the install started this weekend.

I looked up the Carter P4070 and Summit says it is a 4-8 PSI pump. Electric fuel pumps usually have TWO pressure ratings. The lower one is at MAXIMUM fuel flow rate (something you will never approach on a Corvair) and the higher pressure is WHAT YOU WILL SEE AT THE CARBURETORS. so the Carter is an 8 PSI fuel pump. I recall you saying your carburetor preferred 4 PSI. Hmmmmm.

The other issue is a rotary vane pump runs cooler if there is a by-pass line back to the tank which only the Turbo Corvair used.

The simple old pulse pumps don't need a return line and have a proven reliability. Unfortunately the AirTex pump everyone used is no longer made (company was sold). The Facet pump 40105 or kit 40101 is rated at 3.0 to 4.5 PSI (4.5 PSI at carburetors). Many have used this pump for year without issue.

[JohnDB]

There is a lot of information out there about the P4070 pump, but not a lot directly from Carter. It does have some sort of internal regulator and a return line is not required. I'll be plumbing in a gauge so we'll find out soon what the real story is. Shops that sell weber 32/36 retrofit kits suggest this pump, especially for multiple carbs.

[66vairguy]

There is a lot of information out there about the P4070 pump, but not a lot directly from Carter. It does have some sort of internal regulator and a return line is not required. I'll be plumbing in a gauge so we'll find out soon what the real story is. Shops that sell weber 32/36 retrofit kits suggest this pump, especially for multiple carbs.

O.K. Let us know what the fuel pressure is. Good to know a return line for cooling the pump is not needed.

[JohnDB]

It’s hot, but good progress today. I’m mounting the pump in the rear, behind the left tire where the fuel line comes into the engine bay. This pump says to stay near the same level as the bottom of the tank, but no more than 24” above the bottom, so I’m taking advantage of that. I tried a number of mounting points, but decided on the “horseshoe” - installed 2 rivnuts and the bracket is in:

With the bracket mounted, I removed the old fuel line. A long time ago most of the hard line out of the tunnel was replaced with rubber - made in W. Germany even!

Pump and lines (and pushrod) removed, plug installed with regular bolt and jam nut since there is no indentation in the plug for the normal fuel pump bolt:

Also setup a bracket for the fuel lines and gauge at the front of the engine, right out of the electrical section at Lowe's, still a bit more adjustment but I think it will work:

Mounted the fuel pump controller near the rear on the driver side, this spot reaches everything without having to lengthen any wires, coil was the one that decided it:

Started wiring but will need to finish another time. Hopefully tomorrow, the rest of my tubing got here today so I can make new hard lines to the carbs.

[JohnDB]

I was hoping that I could get finished today, but also not surprised that I wasn't able to. Overall, still a good day of progress though. I mounted the pump to the bracket:

And got some of the plumbing done - ended up moving the gauge and cross junction to the other bolt that holds the balance tube, made access for the input not try to go through the PCV hose. Also used part of the original 5/16" fuel line to make the new input line, I thought I had a long enough piece of new line but it wasn't even close. I might remake the input line with a new piece, it could be a little longer where it goes through the grommet.

And then I finished all of the wiring. Nothing too exciting, but it takes a lot longer than it seems like it should. Overall I'm pretty happy where everything landed. I also had to fix the body harness where it comes into the engine bay, the 12v keyed pink wire was spliced with a guillotine connector way back when for the electric chokes, I removed that and ended up adding 2 spade connectors into the fix - 1 for keyed 12v for the chokes and the other for keyed 12v for the fuel pump controller.

I still need to run the hose and filter under the car and make the new hard lines to the carbs. Too tired to start messing with that now, so hopefully I can make some more progress this week on it.

[66vairguy]

Nice job

The "PINK" wire is only hot with the ignition switch ON, not in ACC which is what you want, BUT that "PINK" wire gauge is marginal considering it runs all the way from the ignition switch and through a bulkhead connector. When your are done check the voltage. On one car I did with a number of items running off the "PINK" wire I had to add a parrallel wire to avoid too large a voltage drop.

BTW --- A worn ignition switch can cause a voltage drop. If you see a voltage drop, then remove the ignition switch and check voltage at the "RED" wire vs. voltage out "PINK" wire.

NOTE: I've bought two aftermarket ignition switches that were DEFECTIVE. They seemed O.K. until I put in the lock tumbler and they were intermittent on START. The internal contact was not in the correct position relative to the switch casting!!!! The first time it took me a while to figure it out. Now I check the switch with the lock tumbler installed BEFORE I install the new switch.

[JohnDB]

Slow progress during the week, work keeps getting in the way... But I was able to get the lines to the carbs bent, and I ended up getting another length of pre-flared 5/16" line to remake the inlet tube into the engine bay. I also borrowed the flaring tool from the FLAPS, and did some practice flares on scrap tubing. I am not good at making flares, even with the nickel/copper tubing I'm using. I think a lot of it is the kit, but I wasn't feeling good about trying to flare the lines I made to go to the carbs. I called a hydraulic hose shop, but he didn't have the equipment to do 1/4" tube, so I stopped in at the shop that does my annual inspection. I had the lines with me, and about 5 minutes later I had all 4 ends flared in their fancy machine.

Way better than mine were looking:

Got out in the garage this morning and finished plumbing:

Really happy with how it all came out. Had my wife come out and run the key while I checked for leaks, had a small one where the 5/16 flare connects, but easily fixed. Fired it up and got exactly what I was hoping for on the fuel pressure gauge:

Have to go to a family function, but should get some test miles on it tomorrow and hopefully dial in the carbs a bit as well!

[66vairguy]

I'm glad it worked out so well.

Yes I learned the "hand flare" tools do not produced good results. You need a quality "fancy" tube flare machine to make good leak free flares.

[JohnDB]

Had to return the "flare" tool to the FLAPS, so I took the Corsa out for some shakedown miles. Idle was a bit high after it was all warmed up, but so far it seems to run pretty well. Had my long screwdriver with me so I backed the idle down a bit in the FLAPS parking lot. Ran some highway miles on the way home and it seems to like that fine too. Also noticed that it is no longer popping on deceleration, I had thought it might have been too lean, but I think it was actually too rich from fuel getting pushed past the needle and overfilling the bowl. I think I need to disconnect the linkage and re-sync the carbs a bit better as well, but that will be for another day. Need to work on an adaptor for the Unisyn also, it doesn't really fit on these carbs.

[Dennis66]

There are a number of Weber round filter adapters on ebay. These are made to allow the stock air filter housing to be used with a Weber. The bad news is the best price seems to be about 44.00. Way back, I made my own (had a 32/36 on my '87 Isuzu Trooper). I traced the shape of the Weber air filter gasket, cut 4 pieces of 1'' wide Nylon, notched one or two where they needed it, and made a "box" to fit my Weber. I fastened the ends with plain old counter sunk drywall screws. I then took a flat piece of thin steel with a round hole close to the needed diameter of my air filter housing and welded a short piece of exhaust pipe of the appropriate size. Worked fine. We had emissions inspections back then and they couldn't tell it was an aftermarket carb under the air cleaner, but if you didn't have the stock air cleaner, you got gigged. Dennis

[JohnDB]

Now that you mention it, I remember seeing the round adapters when I was looking at various air filters. Too bad they are so expensive, it would probably work pretty well. I decided to attempt a free solution, and raided the recycle bin:

Didn't get a picture when it was running, needed too many hands to get a good seal on everything. Overall it worked pretty well and it seems like the carbs are balanced pretty well. Did a few more test miles and it is running well. Ready for some more miles!

[JohnDB]

I've put some more miles on the Corsa in the past weeks, and the fuel pump seems to be very happy.

Great weather today for a car show, so we took both cars:

Almost 250 cars, and we were the only 2 Corvairs.

I was talking to some folks, and a man walked up and handed me this Sept. 1965 copy of Car and Driver - he said he had been looking for the right person to give it to, and I seemed like that guy

It's in pretty good shape, thinking I might get a sleeve to put it in and have it on the seat or the dash at shows.

[66vairguy]

Taking a Corvair to a show, or just the weekend cars and coffee can be fun. Most folks are curious and enjoy looking at the engine.

Rarely do I run into a negative Naderite. When they say "Don't those Corairs roll over?" I reply "When I opened my garage today it was on it's roof". They look baffled and walk off - LOL.

I remember that Car and Driver issue (yes I'm old as dirt) and years ago I found a copy at a swap meet. A good coverage of the Corvair options at the time. Enjoy.

[gbullman]

Taking a Corvair to a show, or just the weekend cars and coffee can be fun. Most folks are curious and enjoy looking at the engine.

Rarely do I run into a negative Naderite. When they say "Don't those Corairs roll over?" I reply "When I opened my garage today it was on it's roof". They look baffled and walk off - LOL.

I remember that Car and Driver issue (yes I'm old as dirt) and years ago I found a copy at a swap meet. A good coverage of the Corvair options at the time. Enjoy.

I’ve had very similar experiences at shows or cruise nights, the majority of people are curious what it is and are really surprised when I open the hood in back. I get the very occasional “those cars are dangerous” or “they are a death trap” but I usually explain they are no worse than their contemporaries and they handle better than most cars from that period if you know how to drive them.

John,
So glad you have them both sorted out! Talk about a fun activity to do as a couple.

[Project65]

Just wanted to comment on the fuel pump install. I like how you did that. A nice clean look! You do nice work! That and the Carb rebuilds. Great photos too!

[JohnDB]

The Corsa got some new jewelry last week - got my vintage plate all setup with PA. I'm happy with the new look!

It's running great with the electric pump and carb rebuilds, but I need to chase the oil leak again as it's been getting worse over the last couple hundred miles. Next steps are to do the oil cooler seals - not convinced it will be the fix - then after that the plan is to pull the rear housing and reseal everything on the back of the engine.