EM Turbo power pack removal

[Deadwolf]

Got either throw out bearing or transmission issues with my 1963 spyder. She squeals like a banshee unless I have the clutch pushed in. When I first started the car everything was going good, but then I decided to be adventurous and see if the transmission made any weird sounds. So I pushed in the clutch and put it in first gear and let off the clutch (Car sitting up on jack stands without tires, but lug nuts to hold drums on) and I heard a slight squeaking that I think was just the result of new brakes and the E-brake being a little too tight. Shifted it out of gear into neutral and that is when she started squealing like a banshee.

So now it looks like at a minimum I need a new throw out bearing. I am a little concerned with it being the shaft from the clutch to the transmission as the story of the car says the previous owner started the engine after overhaul, but that was it. Before I started the engine I checked the fluids and found the transmission and differential bone dry. That means that even if he was in neutral the clutch shaft would have been spinning without lubrication.

Now that it is coming out I have a couple of questions.
1. Do I have to remove the turbo and carburetor?
2. A specialist shop with a good reputation in my area charges about $500 to perform a Transmission overhaul, if I find the smoking gun to actually be the throw out bearing would it still be in my interest to overhaul the transmission as insurance? I don't hear that these 4 speed transmissions are prone to failure, but I don't want to have to pull it out in another month just to overhaul the transmission.
3. Is their anything else that I should do for the warranted cost while it is out? I already have plans to repaint the new accessible areas, but again don't want to pull it back out later for something that would have cost very little to make new.

Anything else I should look at or do before the power pack removal or after the power pack removal that people can think of?

Thanks in advance.

[joelsplace]

That symptom is not your throw out bearing. The bearing is most loaded when you push in the clutch and does nothing when you aren't on the clutch pedal. You are probably hearing input shaft bearing issues. Since the transaxle was dry I would expect that it isn't rebuildable.

[Deadwolf]

Does anyone know the best way to reliably determine what the issue is before removal?

I would like to get parts on order before it is on the ground and apart, but that is looking like the only way to currently figure out extent of damage.

[vairguy63]

Agree with joelsplace. Sounds like input shaft bushing! Since you’ll have it down I’d replace the throw out bearing anyway along with the shaft bushing. Replace the shaft seal(s) in the diff snout, open the side cover on the 4spd so you can see inside and rotate the input shaft and listen to the needle bearings in the clutch gear at rear of trans (front of car).

If it was all done and not driven but left dry it may be ok. Lots of grease or assembly lube goes in to all those needle bearings in assembly so...

Open the top of the diff cover as well and rotate the ring and pinion and listen to the bearings. If you hear anything grinding and crunching stop and rebuild!

If not follow the shop manual for clearances and patterns before putting back together and filling with lube. Only use gl-4 90 that’s ok for brass! Redline MT-90 is my preferred


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[Deadwolf]

I was planning on using Valvaline 75W-90 as it is listed as a GL-4 gear oil.

I have a line on another transmission, so I might just do a swap and then I can fully investigate the old transmission at a different time.

So nobody knows if I can get this out without removing the turbo and carb?

[joelsplace]

Sure you can. You'll just have to have the car higher up and be careful as you come down.