O.K. I feel defeated now!

[Corvair.crazy]

I just rebuilt my Carter YH carb on my Sypder. It ran great for 5 minutes. Now it drips gas into the sir horn so it floods out immediately. Does anybody know what I did wrong. I followed the instructions and made sure my float was adjusted and measured the distance on the choke and everything. The choke seems to work OK it is just the gas puddling up in the air horn . Help!!!!!!!!!

[miniman82]

I gave up completely on that POS carb, but not until fighting a very long and expensive battle:

rebuilt it myself, using a kit from Larry's
installing an electric choke to cure the perpetual high-RPM condition the stock thermo one caused
sending it to Clark's to have them rebuild it ($$$$)
installing an electric pump and good quality Holley regulator (more $$$)

After all of that, it still never ever did what I wanted it to do. I'm far from a carb noob, but it kicked my ass all over the place from day one. I sent it to someone else (who will no doubt grow to hate it as well), and will be installing a 45 DCOE along with upgraded turbocharger when the time comes.

My best advice: get rid of it, before you hate your car enough to sell it in disgust. Strombergs/SU's/Holleys are all available to replace that pile of crap, and they are all easier to tune and get parts for.

[65Ragtop]

OK....The YH carb is from the stone age and certainly not a "performance" carb, but it's not THAT bad! Ran one for decades on my 63 Spyder with only one rebuild. Now to the problem.

First, why did you rebuild the carb in the first place? The reason I ask is that it might shed some light on the current problem....

Any other mods to the fuel system? Electric or new fuel pump? Pump pressure should be within 4 to 5 PSI at idle. Any more than that and you will run the risk of overpowering the float needle. Pressure regulators are a common, inexpensive additon to the fuel system.

I presume you changed the float needle and seat. Still, check the needle for nicks or burrs, it could still be sticking.

Check the condition of the float itself. Remove it and shake. Any fuel inside? If so, seal it up or replace it.

You probably set the float level at the stock 5/8th inch. Try lowering it to 3/4" instead. It's kind of the new standard for this carb.

Often overlooked when flooding occurs on turbo cars is the gas return line from the filter to the tank. It must be open and clear. It could easily be clogged up after all these years.

The carb needs to be level. There is some play in the carb mounting boss. Loosen the carb a bit, snugg but moveable. With the car level and the carb cover removed, place a level on the bowl gasket surface and adjust. This will help keep the fuel in the bowl below the main nozzle.

Don't feel defeated, get motivated! Solving this kind of problem is VERY rewarding! Give it another go.....there are no problems that cannot be solved, it just takes time, effort and resolve. Let us know how it goes.

[Greybeard]

I rebuilt my first carb more than 50 years ago, and have done my own ever since. I've ended up with, or have worked on the carbs of others, and have had similar problems from an assortment of areas.
Seat not tightened. Gasket not installed when new seat was screwed in. Mixed needles/seats where seat bore and needle dia. allowed the needle to wobble. I've fixed units where the owners had used teflon tape and a string of it ran up into the needle/seat from the fuel fitting. The Hinge pin not in proper location allowing the float to cock to one side. (bought a totally restored GTO Convert cheap after the owner couldnt get it to run right. The center carb had the hinge pin out on one side.) Sunk floats. TOO much fuel pressure from electric pumps. I've run accross many cars with electric pumps on them because the owners thought the car's hard starting was caused by a poor manual pump when the problem was the choke didn't close.
I've used the YH carb on several inline 6's I've turbo'd. I like them because I can keep the height down. One of those I6's is still running after 20 years and I have doubts the carb has had another rebuild as the turbo is still the original untouched.
I'd stay with it, you are probably over looking an "ah ha!", and it'll be an easy fix.

[Corvair.crazy]

The reason I rebuilt it was because I recently acquired the car and it was sitting for a least a year since its last time it ran. It hasn't been licensed since 1991. I got the car running and it would start great cold but after warmed up it would be flooded. So I thought any car that has been sitting that long should be at least cleaned out. The previous owner "cleaned" the tank. And when I bought it before I brought it home I filled the tank with fresh high octane gas. Yes I did adjust the float to the spec of 5/8" and 2 3/8" drop. I also adjusted the choke to the 7/16" with full throttle. One other thing is the choke was stuck when I brought the car home and the fast idle/ unloader cam was not even postioned right. What I am getting from your input is that the float maybe overfilling. I tried taking the float cover plate off and the gas level was right at the baffle plate. I would like to keep the stock carb only because I am a restore nut. I have a '62 as well and it seems to be alright but I do appreicate the benefits that technology has brought us since 1963.

[Corvair.crazy]

By the Mike, I don't remember seeing a return fuel line. Just the two lines into the fuel pump.

[65Ragtop]

As far as a fuel return line goes, there is a chance you don't have one. 1962 and very early 1963 cars did not have one. Most 63 cars DO have one. The return line will start at your (special) fuel filter from a nipple next to the fuel filter to carb line. A rubber line will go to a steel line under the car to the fuel filler tube at the gas tank where it will be attached with another rubber line to a tee and the gas tank vent tube. See pictures.

These special fuel filters were very hard to come by for a while and sometimes were replaced with standard filters with no return line nipple. So check for your return line under the car and at the filler tube even if there is a standard filter on the fuel line. This could be the case.

If by chance you have a car without the return line, a fuel pressure regulator will be a must have item in the near future. The return line helped keep fuel line pressure within acceptable perameters (in theory) by returning excess fuel to the tank.

[65Ragtop]

An item over looked with the choke on these cars is the choke clean air tubes. They can be clogged up after 45+ years as well. Take them off and run a wire through them to clean them out. Follow with some good solvent.

[Corvair.crazy]

Mike this is great info. I don't think I have a return line. It is a '63 with the "YR" block (or whichever it is). The same block number as my '62. So I assumed it was an early. I just spent 4 hours tinkering with it. I don't think it is the float. The gas flows out the air horn when the engine shuts down.Wouldn't it come out the vent tube if it is the float? When I have the float cover plate off and work the throttle the gas flows out the air horn as well.

What about this thing called a pump discharge valve. The old one was stuck when I was rebuilding it. After getting it out I justed dropped in the new one. The exploded view of the carb shows a ball going in there as well. My kit came with a little steel ball. But I don't remember taking one out. The shop manual doesn't show a steel ball.

Thanks again it is nice knowing you aren;t alone out there.

[Corvair.crazy]

I thought I would add some photos so you can see what I do. The carb looked nice and pretty when I first put it in but now a little ragged after having it apart so much.

[65Ragtop]

OK. We need to ID your carb. There were 3 variations to the YH carb between 62 and 63. Two in 63. One version used a pump discharge needle, the other used the spring and check ball. We are also presuming you have the original carb on the car. By chance do you have the tin carb ID tag that is usually attached to the bowl cover by one of the bowl screws (#1 in pic) ? If so, take a picture of it. If not, don't fret, most of them are long gone by now.

Get some numbers to narrow our search down. There is a main body number on the flat surface next to the throttle flange (#2) in the picture. There is also a number stamped on the top surface of the main jet and another on the eyelet end of the metering rod. We might be able to figure it out from these numbers if we are lucky and you have an original carb.

In the interest of eliminating some possible problems, check out the fuel pressure regulator at Rafee's. You really need to do this since you don't have the return line. http://www.rafeecorvair.com/1962-turbo- ... -p-94.html You can probably find one locally too. Just make sure it is adjustable to the lower pressures mentioned above for carbs (similar to the Rafee unit).

[Corvair.crazy]

You are correct the tag was gone. The number on the body (2) is 0-1392. I hope you can I.D. from that. I will get on the pressure regulator. My '62 probally needs one too right?

[65Ragtop]

In this case I can. You have the first generation 1962 YH carb. It uses the pump discharge needle NOT the spring and check ball. The kits usually have both to cover more versions, cheaper and easier that way. You must have a VERY early 63.
Yes, you need a fuel pressure regulator on both cars. It will save you a lot of heartache down the road.

[Corvair.crazy]

I found stuff online about the YH but it is for the Corvette version are they close? I do see what you are talking about with the float. if the cut sheet is close the gas can seep through the metering jet and up through the nozzle right?

[65Ragtop]

The YH carbs on the blue flame 6 ('vette) are close but not the same as the 'vair turbo version. Just as a clarification on my part,, when I stated "first generation" I was referring to Corvair turbo carb versions of which there were 7, I think. mostly jet and metering rod changes, bowl baffle plates added, the 65-66 carbs had a larger venturi, etc. There were many versions of the carb prior to 1962 on other cars and marine applications. They are all "tuned" to those specific applications.

Yes, lower your float and level your bowl as stated above for that reason.

[UNSAFE]

Wow - I'm glad that I don't do turbos

To me the most obvious possibilities are -crud in the gas getting stuck in the needle/seat "I recently acquired the car and it was sitting for a least a year since its last time it ran. It hasn't been licensed since 1991. I got the car running and it would start great cold but after warmed up it would be flooded."

Or even more likely is the absense of the fuel return line. That's what it was there for. Also used on 68-69 smog motors.
On the smog motors the Tee fitting at the fuel pump outlet had an extra port to return fuel to the tank. That might be an easy way if you can't get the filter.

I'd try the return line before messing with a regulator . Even with a regulator a ruturn line would be a good idea. Some regulators have the return port built in.