Good afternoon
I have a 1961 Monza and the warning light on the dash for the oil/temp does not illuminate when the key is in the on position. I read the shop manual and decided to use a test light to see if it was getting power and the test light lite up, so I decided to change the bulb hoping that would help. So changed the bulb and nothing, so I am wondering what other test could I run to make to find out why it is not illuminating.
According to what I have read it should illimunate in the on position and cranking like the generator light does.
Thanks for any advice, oh by the way been driving it that way for a while so I know I have oil pressure just concerned with the over heat part.
Jdflight
how to test the temp and oil pressure warning light
how to test the temp and oil pressure warning light
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma

61Monza aka Wilma

- bbodie52
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Re: how to test the temp and oil pressure warning light
The three schematic diagrams below may help you to better understand the warning light circuit you are troubleshooting. The diagrams can be enlarged for better viewing by simply left clicking on each image. The second diagram is a combined complete diagram for the entire car, and can be enlarged a second time by clicking on it again. This allows you to zoom in and trace around each circuit by simply scrolling from side to side or up and down. The 1961 shop manual wiring diagrams are of poor quality and difficult to follow. But comparing the top diagram with the 1962 diagrams shows that the color codes remained the same in 1962. You may find it easier to trace the circuit from the engine sending units all the way to the instrument panel warning light.
The warning light bulb in the instrument panel gets its power from a tap of the primary voltage wiring that's provided from the ignition switch. The wire is tan in color and is connected to the warning light bulb socket to provide voltage. The other wire from the same socket is dark blue in color and is routed through a couple of multi-connectors all the way to the engine compartment and terminates at the two warning light switches. A ground of either switch should cause the bulb to illuminate. By default, the oil pressure sending unit provides a ground when there is no oil pressure, so turning the ignition key to the ON position should provide voltage to the bulb. The blue wire should be providing a circuit ground to the chassis via the engine.
If you have a multimeter available you should be able to check to confirm that 12 V DC is available at the bulb socket via the tan wire when the ignition key is in the ON position. The dark blue wire can be tested with the multimeter set to measure resistance in ohms. You should be able to connect the multimeter to the blue wire and touch the other lead to chassis ground and show a connection. If you cannot find a ground connection on the blue wire you should check the multi-connector in the engine compartment. Sometimes the metal connectors inside the plastic housing become corroded or damaged and failed to provide continuity through the multi-connector. You can unplug the two halves of the engine compartment multi-connector to examine the blue wire on both sides to confirm that a good electrical connection exists when the two halves of the connector are pressed together. You can test the circuit when the two halves are separated to see if the blue wire that leads to the engine is providing a ground connection via the oil pressure sending unit switch.
Hopefully these diagrams will help you to understand how this warning light circuit operates and will allow you to do the necessary fault isolation and troubleshooting to resolve the problem with the warning light circuit. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
The warning light bulb in the instrument panel gets its power from a tap of the primary voltage wiring that's provided from the ignition switch. The wire is tan in color and is connected to the warning light bulb socket to provide voltage. The other wire from the same socket is dark blue in color and is routed through a couple of multi-connectors all the way to the engine compartment and terminates at the two warning light switches. A ground of either switch should cause the bulb to illuminate. By default, the oil pressure sending unit provides a ground when there is no oil pressure, so turning the ignition key to the ON position should provide voltage to the bulb. The blue wire should be providing a circuit ground to the chassis via the engine.
If you have a multimeter available you should be able to check to confirm that 12 V DC is available at the bulb socket via the tan wire when the ignition key is in the ON position. The dark blue wire can be tested with the multimeter set to measure resistance in ohms. You should be able to connect the multimeter to the blue wire and touch the other lead to chassis ground and show a connection. If you cannot find a ground connection on the blue wire you should check the multi-connector in the engine compartment. Sometimes the metal connectors inside the plastic housing become corroded or damaged and failed to provide continuity through the multi-connector. You can unplug the two halves of the engine compartment multi-connector to examine the blue wire on both sides to confirm that a good electrical connection exists when the two halves of the connector are pressed together. You can test the circuit when the two halves are separated to see if the blue wire that leads to the engine is providing a ground connection via the oil pressure sending unit switch.
Hopefully these diagrams will help you to understand how this warning light circuit operates and will allow you to do the necessary fault isolation and troubleshooting to resolve the problem with the warning light circuit. Please let me know if you have any further questions.
Brad Bodie
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina
1966 Corvair Corsa Convertible
Lake Chatuge, North Carolina

Re: how to test the temp and oil pressure warning light
Brad
Thank you very much that should help, I know I have power from the power lead to the light bulb but I will run your test and see with the multi meter.
Jdflight
Thank you very much that should help, I know I have power from the power lead to the light bulb but I will run your test and see with the multi meter.
Jdflight
jdflight
61Monza aka Wilma

61Monza aka Wilma
