Corvair Forum

(repost with updates from Parts for Sale)

What if your Corvair has a corroded or damaged fuse box? Up until now, the only alternative was a replacement underdash harness, which runs $400 give or take. Now we have another choice! A replacement, updated fuse panel custom made for Corvairs.

As many of you know, I manufacture custom fuse panels for street rods and custom cars. My standard 17-fuse panel, at 9" x 3.75", is great but won' t fit in the stock Corvair location.

Recently, I've designed and built a 5" x 3.75" 9-fuse panel scaled to fit in the stock location. It's called the "BlackBox Hp and it can be the root of a custom electrical system or, more importantly to us, it's designed to replace a damaged, corroded, or inadequate panel in a car with a factory underdash harness that's otherwise in good condition. With Corvairs being over 50 years old, it's very common for the fuse contacts to be weak or rusty.

Original panels mostly have six-fuses; this panel has nine, plus it includes an option relay that can be used for an electric fuel pump or other accessory.

There are specific kits and detailed instructions for 60-64 EM, 61-65 FC, 65-66 LM, and 67-9 LM models, all are priced at $145 + shipping. Installation isn't hard and should take one to two hours. If you're interested, you can check them out at http://www.racersrods.com/product-p/wb-15-corvair.htm

Got any questions or want more information? You can reply here or at vairstuff@aol.com

Craig Nicol

Below: Installation in a '60 and below that a '66

Craig, can you post the installation manual ?

Sure! - Here's the "step-by-step" installation guide for 65-66. The whole process takes between one and two hours for a first-timer. If you have any questions, "just holler".

I saw one of the first of these to go out that delivered to my friend Joe in Chandler for his 65 Corsa vert. Looks like a great product!

Quite a few folks have downloaded the installation instructions. I'm wondering about the level of detail. Too much? Not enough? I could edit them down if they're too long; I could even get them down to a single page! What are your impressions and feedback? TIA!

I think the length of instructions is fine. Especially what tools are required. I think novice DIY folks will find it somewhat overwhelming, especially once they see the tool list.

Very nice, very nice!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Craig,

Thanks for posting a link to the installation instructions for the Fuse Panel on the Corvair Forum. I read through it and it looks easy.

Just 2 questions.

Step 4 of the Installation states;
"4) Install baseplate to body using existing holes in firewall. Use 3/16” pop-rivets (included). You may have to drill (enlarge) body holes to 3/16” to fit rivets."

Does the panel/baseplate HAVE to be riveted to firewall to get a good Ground or can I use the original screws?

Screw heads too tall and might short something inside panel? For LOOKS inside the trunk, I would Like to reuse the 'plastic screw covers' removed in step 5 of the Fuse Panel Removal.
"5) Open trunk and remove fuse-block’s plastic screw-covers. (near master cylinder)"

Step 11 states;
"11) Install Heat-Shrink labels (cut from included strip) onto each extension according to table below. First letter should be at free end. Use a BBQ lighter (heat from sides and bottom only) to shrink label onto connector. Once labeled, install connector to fuse panel terminal."

Is using a Heat Gun for the Heat-Shrink labels Not recommended due to TOO much heat?

Thank you for your help and a Great product.

OK, I just counted 3 questions so--- Just 3 questions.

Thank you for your questions, Mark. Use of Pop-Rivets for installation is just a good idea, plus the original screws would be 1/2" too long. If the panel is installed with screws and the screws loosen for some reason, the screw could create a short circuit between the circuit card and base-plate. I wanted to eliminate that possibility. I think you *might* be able to install the original screw covers over the rivets if you were concerned about appearance from the trunk's point of view.

As for "Heat Gun" vs "BBQ Lighter", I recommend the BBQ lighter because its heat radius is small and the tip stays fairly cool. Heat guns tend to have a large blast radius making it sketchy to hold the wire during the process. Also, once heat shrinking is done, the heat gun tends to have an extremely hot nozzle which is a risk to skin, upholstery, and carpet. Thinking about it, there are so many caveats surrounding the heat gun I should probably take it out of the instructions.
BTW, yours went out in today's shipment. Thanks for your order!

Hey Craig,

Can you explain the "option-relay for those who want to get creative and use it to power a fuel pump". Does this mean that if the engine dies, say in an accident, the electric fuel pump will stop?

Any electric fuel pump installation should include a safety cutoff switch system. Typically the primary cutoff switch is linked to engine oil pressure. If the engine stops, a lack of oil pressure cuts power to the fuel pump. A secondary safety switch is typically an inertia switch that senses a vehicle impact or rapid deceleration. If that occurs, the switch cuts power to the electric fuel pump.