A question about cylindar head temperature

[Jake]

Thanks for the info

No, when I start my car the temp gauge is at 200. I usually don’t drive it till it budges just a tick and under normal driving it usually sits just got under 300.

I’ve had it for one summer and just took it out of storage.
Driving it yesterday in around 35 degree weather I saw it bump up to maybe 205-210 and never got hotter.
As of right now I’m not really worried about it not working because I’ve never driven it in weather that cold and my overheat sensor light is still working.
It comes on when I start the car.

I’m going to reserve any judgment about it till it gets a little warmer around here and see if it performs like it always has.


I really do appreciate the input

[66vairguy]

Thanks for the info

No, when I start my car the temp gauge is at 200. I usually don’t drive it till it budges just a tick and under normal driving it usually sits just got under 300.

I’ve had it for one summer and just took it out of storage.
Driving it yesterday in around 35 degree weather I saw it bump up to maybe 205-210 and never got hotter.
As of right now I’m not really worried about it not working because I’ve never driven it in weather that cold and my overheat sensor light is still working.
It comes on when I start the car.

I’m going to reserve any judgment about it till it gets a little warmer around here and see if it performs like it always has.


I really do appreciate the input

That doesn't sound like a problem. Do you have the thermostats and rear doors working . If no thermostats and doors, then the engine won't warm up as much at 35F versus summer weather. As others have said --- GM would not have spent the money for thermostat cooling control if it was not needed. Keep in mind your thermistor sender mounted in an adapter for the 110HP head will cause it to indicate lower on the gauge based on my experiences. You might have the newer Clark's electronic sendor to replace the thermistor. I have no experience with them.

Usually a NON-Turbo Corvair engine will not overheat unless the fan belt comes off or breaks (that assumes there are no shop rags or rodent nests in the engine). When the belt quits the GEN/FAN lamp comes on and that means STOP the engine as soon as possible and fix the belt. The over temperature snap switch doesn't illuminate the light until the engine is very hot.

Just me, but based on the ratings for the aluminum alloy GM used for the Corvair heads - anything over 450F can cause head damage, especially with decades old alloy that went thru many heat cycles. Over the years folks have stated the NON 140HP/Turbo engines used a course thread thermal snap switch that turns on the warning lamp at 525F. The 140HP/Turbo engine used a fine thread thermal snap switch that turns on the light at 575F!!!!!!

[Jake]

Yes, my flaps open under usual driving conditions, I didn’t check them yesterday after my half hour to 45 minute shake down cruise after taking it out of storage but will check them tomorrow when I’m planning on taking it out again.


I have to say it’s always a fun car to drive but having the top up rubs the car of about 40% of the joy of driving it!

It’s much more rattly and just not at its peak
Can’t wait for some warmer weather here in Boston.

[Jake]

I've got the original sensor in there.
I don't think its particularly accurate, I use it more as a "normal operating temp" vs "oh no, somethings wrong" sensor.
I've driven it for more than 3000 miles and the 300 degree really seems to be a very healthy temp.
Watching it go from 200 stone cold to 300 during strong consistent operation has given me some confidence in it.

Another thing I've got to mention, I love everything about the Corsa. The gauge cluster has to be one of the greatest faces of any car ever made. It performs beautifully but I've often fantasized about the original turbo engine and how much fun that must be or a 140 4 bbl set up.
But when I really think about what I've got, the 110 is fantastic. For getting around the city, suburban back roads and taking it on the highway periodically it's incredibly spirited and zippy. I've literally never felt it was underpowered.
There's still plenty I don't know about the car, since I spent more time driving it than working on it last year so I don't know what heads or rear end its got but this summer I'm planing on finding out just what the car has.

The only drawback is the drop in performance if I load it up with friends and family. If you put several hundred pounds of people in it performance suffers but it still has never felt dowdy or particularly strained.

I have been imagining getting a 180 turbo to put in my garage on a stand and rebuild in case I ever want to sell the car with the correct motor.
There's also this, I never, ever could have afforded the car if it came with its original 180 turbo in the same running shape as the 110 I've got.
In some ways I think the 65 Corvair Corsa Convertible with a well running 110 is a pretty perfect car.

[66vairguy]

Just my thoughts for what they are worth (a buddy says free advice is worth what it costs - ).

I have always recommended the 110HP engine to folks who don't have a lot of mechanical ability, or don't like to "tinker" with an old car. It performs as well as the 140HP or Turbo below 3,500 RPM (where most driving is done). It requires little attention if well maintained.

Of course a buddy always says "So why do you have 140HP engines in your Corvairs". I reply "Because I like to show off those four carburetors". That and I like to tinker, but in reality I'm lucky if I get to "open" it up even once when I take it out due to traffic. The turbo engine in stock form has always been criticized for tubo lag so you get very little boost in first gear. Once the turbo does provide boost then it really goes. Many do modify their turbo engines for better performance, but they have serious skills.

Bottom line -- enjoy your Corvair with the 110HP engine.