Problem with sticking acceleration
Problem with sticking acceleration
1964 monza convertible with 110 hp 4 speed 2 carbs with a Pertronix and stock coil (Pertronix wired to harness). Pulled and cleaned my spark plugs a couple days ago and reinstalled them. Sprayed electronic contact cleaner in ends of soark plug wires and distributor connections as well as coil connections. Sprayed carbs with carb cleaner, took it for a drive and a few times my gas pedal acted like it was stuck accelerating. Checked my linkeage and made sure it wasn't binding. Sprayed some lubricant on linkeage and replaced the pull back spring today and it did it again a few times. If I tap on the pedal when the engine is revving it will let go and come back to idle. Thought maybe something was stuck inside carb so I looked inside with flashlight and don't see any debris.
Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
On my 140 the sparkplug wires can sometimes interfere with the linkage causing issues.
Jeremy (cad-kid)
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
My 65 Monza thread
My YouTube page
Kronenwetter, WI (Central Wisconsin)
SOLD 9-2016 65 Monza 4spd/140
My 65 Monza thread

Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
Just reattached th pedal to crossbar linkeage and t seems to be better took it for a ride and it didn't di it once. Hope it's something simple like that
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Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
Did you check the pedal itself, could be some rust on the shaft.http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... IN&page=72
64Powerglide, Jeff Phillips
Kalamazoo, Mi..
Kalamazoo, Mi..
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Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
Is the car warmed up? An active choke could cause higher than normal rpm's that decrease after blipping the throttle. Chokes adjusted properly?
Most likely is a binding throttle though..... wear, corrosion, bent or out of alignment linkage joints are common. Have you replaced all the bushings from the pedal all the way through the throttle linkage to the cross shaft and cleaned, lubes and re-bushed the pedal itself? If not ,do so, the parts are cheap and it will fix most binding issues as long as you straighten and align damaged and out of place pieces along the way.
Most likely is a binding throttle though..... wear, corrosion, bent or out of alignment linkage joints are common. Have you replaced all the bushings from the pedal all the way through the throttle linkage to the cross shaft and cleaned, lubes and re-bushed the pedal itself? If not ,do so, the parts are cheap and it will fix most binding issues as long as you straighten and align damaged and out of place pieces along the way.
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
Would it be possible that my choke is engaging? My left carb butterfly has a plastic bushing that broke that affects the choke from working when it's cold. Might that engage when I downshift?
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Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
What plastic bushing? I know of no plastic bushing on the butterfly. There is a plastic choke lever (some are metal) that is part of the carb linkage if that is broken it can cause multiple problems. There are a couple adjustments that depend on the choke tripper during rebuild. Can not properly adjust the carb with it broken. Problems like this can not be ignored. If you have broken carb linkages I would start with a thorough complete carb rebuild before I did anything else. You can not expect proper performance from broken parts. Most common lack of power problems in Corvairs are in order Carb issues, Ignition issues, Wear issues (low compression).
Corvair guy since 1982. I have personally restored at least 20 Vairs, many of them restored ground up.
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Currently working full time repairing Corvairs and restoring old cars.
https://www.facebook.com/tedsautorestoration/
Located in Snellville, Georgia
Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
It's a bit of long shot, but check the rubber boot where the throttle rod passes into the engine compartment. Just recently I had a boot separate and the end of it traveled back along the rod, getting between the rod and the fan housing. This caused a high idle, blipping the throttle would allow the idle speed to return to normal, until the next time.
Chris Brown
Member
Corvanatics: Director at Large
Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Vice President
CORSA
Member
Corvanatics: Director at Large
Ultra Van Motor Coach Club Vice President
CORSA
Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
On the two cars I have removed the accelerator linkage setup from both had VERY stiff gas pedal pivots. Worth checking. Clarks' sells all the parts to rebuild including new pivot tube. Pressing the new gas pedal onto the shaft turned out to be more of a pain than expected. Instructions for getting the pedal angle right are in the shop manual.
Nick
1964 Monza Spyder Convertible #435 - Rotisserie restored - SOLD ON BRING A TRAILER 4/30/2019 - Check out my restoration thread here: [corvaircenter.com]
Thanks to all the awesome CCF, CF, COG, and CORSA members who helped me with the restoration!
1964 Monza Spyder Convertible #435 - Rotisserie restored - SOLD ON BRING A TRAILER 4/30/2019 - Check out my restoration thread here: [corvaircenter.com]
Thanks to all the awesome CCF, CF, COG, and CORSA members who helped me with the restoration!
Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
This same thing happened to me. After rebuilding the ENTIRE linkage, and lubing it a million times, I found out that the pivot into the transmission was SLIGHTLY bent, and was catching ever so slightly. replaced it, and no problems since then. Good luck.
EDIT: It would stick when slowly letting the gas out. A sudden jolt had enough momentum to go back to idle.
EDIT: It would stick when slowly letting the gas out. A sudden jolt had enough momentum to go back to idle.
1966 Aztec Bronze Turbo Convertible Project (Currently not on the road)
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Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
That could be. If the choke pull-off or related parts are damaged, you could have the fast idle cam engaging randomly.paulcomi wrote:Would it be possible that my choke is engaging? My left carb butterfly has a plastic bushing that broke that affects the choke from working when it's cold. Might that engage when I downshift?
Re: Problem with sticking acceleration
After the engine is warm, lockout the chokes into the full open position temporarily with a rubberband and make sure the fast idle cams are not near the idle arm. Now test drive.paulcomi wrote:Would it be possible that my choke is engaging?
It could be the fast idle cams but it could also just be a lot of wear and slop in the linkages after so many years of vibration. Some people install a really strong accelerator return sping but that can lead to excess wear on the throttle shafts.
Dave W. from Gilbert, AZ
66 Corsa 140/4 Yenko Stinger Tribute
66 Corsa 140 Coupe w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5
64 Greenbrier 110/PG, Standard 6-Door
66 Corsa 140/4 Yenko Stinger Tribute
66 Corsa 140 Coupe w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR 140/PG w/factory A/C
65 Monza 4DR EJ20T/5
64 Greenbrier 110/PG, Standard 6-Door