Corvair Forum

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 12:54 pm**

Good afternoon everyone

I am new to the forum and in the process of finding my first Corvair, trying to avoid the rust not having any luck. This will be my first project car have many years experience working on aircooled porsches but really love the Corvair body especially the 66 and up models.

I currently live in Dallas and the corvair I am looking for will be a weekend driver and to events, I have not decided completely on keeping it original or building a true performance one. My background is in aviation but before going to college I worked at german car shop as an apprentice under the owner who was a porsche master technician. I learned a lot and though I love porsches i have always loved the looks of the corvair. I have no body work experience but mechanically I feel comfortable on most items. I have only help rebuild two engine though a 1963 911 E and 928 engine completely different and I did most the grunt work.

I am currently looking at a 66 monza and 61 monza both are in houston. The 66 is supposed to be rust free but has a clouded front windshield and needs paint and interior the 61 needs nothing but a touched up paint from what I see. I have only driven one 67 model and it was horrible steering was all over the place and front end need repaired from what I felt. Any and all suggestions are welcomed I have been looking for the right car for couple of months.

JD

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 2:03 pm**

Welcome, glad you found the site. Lots of info, help, and pics here.

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 2:31 pm**

Welcome to the Corvair Forum!

jdflight wrote:... I am new to the forum and in the process of finding my first Corvair, trying to avoid the rust not having any luck. This will be my first project car have many years experience working on aircooled porsches but really love the Corvair body especially the 66 and up models.

Part of the difficulty in answering your questions is that we know little about you. Here is an opener that I have posted several times to try to help out new prospective Corvair owners a little. Hopefully you will find some useful information below. At the end I also posted some contact information for a local Dallas area club chapter of CORSA (Corvair Society of America). Members may be aware of decent Corvairs in your area that might interest you, and their experience with Corvairs may also help you as you evaluate possibilities.

As you will read below, owning a classic Corvair as a daily driver is certainly a possibility. I have been doing it all over the USA and in Germany since the 1960's, and at age 62 my wife and I are still plugging along with enjoying Corvair ownership and driving it regularly.

The cars are certainly capable — they have been survivairs as daily drivers with owners all over the USA and Canada, and we have Corvair Forum members who drive them regularly in South Africa, many European countries, Australia, South America, Japan, etc. The cars survive because the owners generally take the time to become DIY mechanics and hobbyists. It requires some monetary investment, but not nearly as much as many other classic car breeds. In that sense it is still something of an economy car. They can be a money pit if the body and sheet metal are in poor shape, so it is important that the car is carefully inspected so that cars suffering from extensive body rot and rust, and perhaps many patches with plastic body filler will be avoided. A DIY "shade tree mechanic" can master almost any mechanical repair. Parts suppliers are good, and generally make all things possible on the mechanical end. Local parts sources are not a reality for most people, as few auto parts supply stores can support Corvairs adequately. But Corvair specialists like Clark's Corvair Parts have been highly successful supplying Corvair owners for decades. Without them most Corvairs would have disappeared from the road long ago. The supply is good and the prices are reasonable.

As I mentioned, the other side of the coin is the Corvair body. It is of unibody construction and subject to rust and body rot — especially if the car has been driven extensively in Winter months in areas that use road salt. Few body parts are bolt-on in nature, so welding and sheet metal skills are essential for Corvair body repair. Owners who have adequate body repair skills are relatively rare, and it is an art form that is difficult to master. You really should try to start with a Corvair that is in good physical condition.

Anyway, what follows is a somewhat lengthy broadside that covers Corvair configurations, maintainability, ownership, and personal commitment. You will have to realistically assess your own abilities, financial and time commitment, etc. While a Corvair can certainly be a good daily driver, you should have a backup plan if something breaks — since even a minor breakdown can mean several days awaiting delivery of replacement part(s).

Since there is a local CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapter near you, members may be willing to help you to assess any Corvair you are considering. Their experience with Corvairs can help you by identifying issues you might not notice. Alternately, posting a quantity of detailed photos here on the Corvair Forum can help Corvair Forum members to potentially spot issues and to provide you with useful recommendations.

Joining CORSA (Corvair Society of America) — if you are not already a member — and a local Corvair club chapter is another good way to see and to learn more about Corvairs. You might check out the CORSA chapter in your area. Contacting a local club and making Corvair-knowledgeable friends can often be a big help.

CORSA (Corvair Society of America) Chapter Locator
Locating a local CORSA chapter near you can be very helpful, and attending meetings, parties, Corvair shows, etc. can greatly add to the enjoyment of your Corvair

NOTE: Information on the CORSA Chapter Locator is generally badly out of date. Names, phone numbers, email addresses, etc. are often inaccurate. Your best bet is to find the nearest club chapter on the list, and then use the chapter website link to move on to the club website. Contact information on the actual club website is often much-more accurate and up to date!

https://www.corvair.org/index.php?optio ... crmSID=3_u

I would like to encourage you to expand on your initial post and tell us more about yourself, the Corvair you are considering, and your goals for that Corvair. If you can describe your personal assessment of your mechanical skills and abilities, that would help a lot. Members of the Corvair Forum love to be helpful in assisting other Corvair owners with technical support and advice, but it helps a lot if we have some understanding of your technical background and mechanical abilities, Corvair-related knowledge, etc. Helping us to know more about you and the Corvair will help us to write comments to you that are tailored to your needs and experience. Pictures are great too, because pictures of your Corvair will help us to visualize where you are with your Corvair and its condition at the present time. Knowing your location is also useful, because knowing where you live can sometimes suggest possibilities to resolve some issues or problems.

The Corvairs are vintage 1960s technology and design — easy to learn and easy to maintain. I would say that learning to work on a Corvair is analogous to an experienced home DIY "shade tree" car mechanic learning to work on a motorcycle. The concepts and procedures are very similar, but the details and the way it is put together is a little different. With the Corvair engine (like a motorcycle) you are dealing with a lot of aluminum. The metal is soft when compared to steel and cast iron, so the use of a torque wrench, anti-seize compound and carefully avoiding cross-threading becomes more important. Also, (like some motorcycles) you are dealing with multiple carburetors so tuning procedures are a little different. The use of Corvair shop manuals and supplements, other technical guides, and information sources like the Corvair Forum, and perhaps joining a CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapter can help you to quickly learn about Corvairs. Information resources, like good Corvair parts suppliers, are plentiful if you know where to look. Suppliers like Clark's Corvair Parts have been well-respected and extremely supportive since 1973, and suppliers like that make Corvair ownership more practical and much-more possible. I taught myself how to remove a Corvair powertrain, overhaul the engine, and rebuild the Powerglide transmission during my summer vacation in 1969, when I was sixteen years old. I was working alone (my father had been transferred by Lockheed from northern California to southern California, and we had not yet moved to join him). I had a shop manual and a garage full of tools. There was no Internet, no Corvair Forum, no CORSA club — I was pretty-much on my own. Yet I learned and was successful (in 1972 that engine carried me and my new bride on our wedding day and on our honeymoon).

So you should be able to master working on Corvairs without too much trouble — except watch out for rust and body rot! The Corvair is of unibody construction, so most body repair involves cutting and welding. The doors, trunk lid (in the front)

, and engine compartment lid (in the back)

and maybe the gas filler door are the only bolt-on body components. Everything else is cut and weld, and the body serves as the main chassis frame. So unless you are a master body repair technician, you need to select your Corvair carefully and avoid excessive hidden rust or a "Bondo bucket". The door frame areas, fenders, floor pan, the bottom of the trunk, lower windshield and battery area often rust and rot.

What follows is an attempt at introducing new prospective Corvair Owners to Corvairs and some of the issues involved. Food for thought, before you take the plunge. This is a copy of something I wrote earlier, but I think it may be helpful in your quest for the "right" Corvair...

bbodie52 wrote:I will try to provide a quick summary of the 1960-1969 Corvair lineup, and will also try to provide some answers regarding the use of a Corvair as a "daily driver".

EARLY MODEL: 1960 - 1964 Corvairs were the first generation. Their body style emulated other Chevrolet body styles from the early 1960s. The rear suspension was a swing-axle design that was similar to the Volkswagen "Beetle". The 1960 model year was the only year with a 140 cubic inch engine, and there were some characteristics that were unique to that model year only. A number of refinements were implemented in the following year, including some restyling of the front end and an increase in displacement to 145 cubic inches (CI). A manual choke was used in 1961, and this was changed to an automatic choke design in 1962 that remained with the car through 1969. A turbocharged 150 hp Spyder was introduced in 1962, and the Spyder name remained with the turbocharged engine through 1964. In 1964 the engine displacement in all Corvair engines increased from 145 CI to 164 CI. There were also some suspension refinements, including a front anti-sway bar and a rear transverse leaf spring to improve handling in all 1964 Corvairs. Here are a few pictures of Early Model (EM) 1960-1964 Corvairs...

LATE MODEL:The 1965 Corvair introduced a completely new body style, that was also seen later in similar styles in the Camaro and Pontiac Firebird. The drum brake size was increased, and the swing-axle rear suspension design used in EM Corvairs was abandoned. The new rear suspension was a design lifted from the Corvette Stingray.

1965 and 1966 Corvairs were nearly identical. In 1967-69 the top of the line Corsa was dropped, leaving the Monza and economy 500 until production was discontinued in the spring of 1969. During the 1967-69 production period, there were minor safety changes, such as a dual master brake cylinder in place of the single unit used in 1960-1966. Interior seats and trim changed somewhat, paralleling the items used in Camaros and some other GM products during that period.

All 1965-66 Corsas came with a standard 4-carburetor 140 hp engine, and an optional 180 hp turbocharged engine. The 140 hp engine remained optional in the rest of the lineup. Other engine options in the Monza and 500 were 110 hp and 95 hp dual carburetor engines. All engines could be had with a manual 4-speed or 3-speed transmission, or with a 2-speed Powerglide automatic (with the exception of the 1965-66 turbocharged 180 hp engine, which was available with the Corsa only, and only with a 4-speed manual transmission).

Air conditioning was a rare option, but can be found in the 1965-1967 lineup, and some of the EM Corvairs as well. The following link will provide you with some air conditioned Corvair background and history...
http://www.corvair.org/chapters/airvairs/

The brakes, front and rear suspension, transaxle and body were essentially identical in the Corsa, Monza, and 500. The primary differences in the cars were the instrument panel (the Corsa had more gauges), trim details, and the engine option.

The late model Corvairs were available in a 2-door Coupe, 2-door Convertible, and 4-door Sedan. In 1968, the four-door hardtop was discontinued, leaving three models—the 500 and Monza Hardtop Coupes and the Monza Convertible. Air conditioning was dropped as an option. The weight of the cars was very similar in all configurations.

bbodie52 wrote:Here is something I wrote over a year ago — Brad's Admonition, or some words of advice — based on over 50 years of exposure to Corvair ownership — that I wrote to try to give new Corvair buyers some idea of the issues involved. I'm sure you have some idea already, but I also think this is worth considering...

Since you are new to Corvairs, I want to give you some information that I have written to other new prospective first-time Corvair owners. I have been involved with Corvairs since I was nine years old, when my parents bought our first Corvair – a brand new 1961 Monza 2-door coupe, white on red with a 4-speed transmission. I now own Corvair number ten, which I purchased in June 2012. (If you want to read a brief personal biography that outlines my family background and our experiences with Corvairs, go to CORVAIR FORUM > Introductions > New from Lake Chatuge North Carolina. viewtopic.php?f=13&t=4032 ) I want to encourage your enthusiasm in developing your plans to buy your first Corvair, but at the same time I want to help you to think through just what you are getting into. So please read and consider these comments below...

I have listened to many potential Corvair first-time owners. Many have no prior experience with owning any classic car, and many have never driven a Corvair at all, or have not driven one in decades. Some are motivated by childhood memories of a family Corvair. They typically describe the desire to locate a perfect, restored, ultra-clean example, and look to the Corvair Forum Corvair enthusiasts and aficionados to tell them what to do.

The first thing I think that needs to be done is to try to set-aside the usual emotion-based enthusiasm that any car buyer might feel when visiting a dealer and gazing with emotional eagerness at the vast array of new cars displayed in the showroom, on the car lot, and in factory brochures and advertisements. There is an extreme difference between owning a 40+ year-old Chevrolet that was likely engineered, designed and built with pre-planned obsolescence in mind — a car that GM only envisioned having a life-span of ten years or so. Many of the potential Corvair buyers are captivated with the exciting idea of owning something different — something not normally seen on the road — something that your neighbor will not buy! Certainly that is the case with a Corvair, but owning a Corvair and enjoying that ownership demands a certain dose of reality before you "buy-in". Many are unprepared for the maintenance and upkeep demands of a Corvair. "Where can I find a good Corvair mechanic?" is a common question — often displaying an inability or unwillingness to do some mechanical work and maintain that car yourself. Yet qualified Corvair mechanics can be distant, expensive, inconvenient, and all-too rare. At a time when finding even a spark plug, fan belt, or oil filter for a Corvair often means an Internet or mail-order purchase, finding local support may be unlikely or impossible. Even searching automobile junk yards will often not help, because these cars are so rare and infrequently found that they have all but disappeared from the scrap yards too. Even locating and buying a used part is a mail-order proposition. And even if you spend $15,000-$20,000 for a fully-restored Corvair in mint condition, it still comes "as-is", with no warranty and little in the way of a local support system — far different than what most car buyers are used to expecting! These are the realities of owning an older classic car.

Corvairs are popular and affordable classic cars, and enjoy a good infrastructure of maintenance supporters, owner's clubs, and parts suppliers — and that REALLY helps! But I suspect that most happy Corvair owners are something of "shade-tree mechanics" and hobbyists who are prepared to deal with the risks and problems related to Corvair ownership. It requires a long-term commitment and a dose of reality to happily own a classic Corvair. The "first date" infatuation with the attractiveness and uniqueness of a Corvair will not sustain you in a long-term relationship with a Corvair. It is far-better to have a realistic idea of just what you are getting into before you "take the plunge" and buy your dream car.

A cautious, knowledgeable and educated search for your dream Corvair is a great start, and a careful and realistic analysis of your own mechanical talents, skills and abilities is also useful. If you plan to have a mechanic do most of the work for you, the availability of a Corvair-skilled mechanic and the associated costs involved must be taken into account in your financial planning to own a Corvair.

I try to not be too negative, but I have worked with others who came to realize that Corvair ownership was more than they could handle. I just feel that new prospective Corvair owners come here to this forum to learn from others who have more experience, and we are not doing them any favors by "candy coating" the issues involved. If they pass the "sanity check" and still want to pursue buying a Corvair, then GREAT! This Forum and perhaps some local Corvair club members can potentially help them pursue that dream. But it should be a realistic dream, and not a frustrating "nightmare" experience. Better to make a clear-headed, informed decision early in the game!
I hope that these comments are useful to you. I know I get "long-winded", but I also know you are trying to make an important decision, and I hope all of these comments will help you.
Corvairs can suffer from rust and body rot problems, especially in areas that use a lot of road salt in the wintertime. While you may be able to learn and successfully attack most mechanical issues as a DIY effort, body decay can be much-more difficult, time-consuming, intimidating, and expensive to correct. So look for hidden rust or rot problems that may have been covered up with plastic filler, and be cautious in your Corvair selection.

A Corvair can serve well as a daily driver. But I would recommend a backup car or other alternatives, since ANY breakdown can put the car out of service for days until replacement parts can be obtained (if needed). If you have the skills and ability to work on the car yourself, repairs can often be completed fairly quickly. But if you have to rely on professional mechanics, downtime can be long and possibly expensive — if you can find a good mechanic to do the work for you.

Let us know how you wish to proceed. If you have good prospects, I urge you to seek opinions from experienced Corvair enthusiasts before you commit to a purchase. Good luck!

Finally, one or two pairs of experienced "Corvair eyes" can tell you a lot. If you are inclined to join the local CORSA (Corvair Society of America) club chapter, I would encourage you to do so. You might be able to enlist some Corvair aficionados to join you in your Corvair hunt. Their opinions could be very helpful. Here is some contact information.

I must say that this club chapter appears to be very well organized with excellent member participation, based on the content of their website. Membership in this club could really add to your enjoyment of Corvair ownership.

CORSA Chapter Locator - North Texas Corvair Association

Chapter ID: 750
Organization Name: North Texas Corvair Association
Street Address (Primary): North Texas Corvair Association, P.O. Box 170796, Irving, Texas 75017-0796

CHAPTER OFFICERS FOR 2015

President: Fred Rehders, 972-272-0049, fred@thepegasus.us
Vice President: Tommy Wright, 972-345-3449, twmotorcraft@msn.com
Secretary: Bob Gill, 214-686-0289, recycled.roadkill@verizon.net
Treasurer: Susan Wright, 972-438-6209, txbluegrass95@yahoo.com
Activities Coordinator: Mike Boyle, 817-909-7874, txboyle@sbcglobal.net
Director 1: Tom Fricker, 817-821-5094, tomcat.vair35@gmail.com
Director 2: Sam Baker, 214-636-2207, sam.baker101@verizon.net
Director 3: Nick Raeber, 469-863-4416, nraeber@gmail.com

Newsletter Editor: Gail Fricker, 817-821-5094, ntcanews@live.com
Newsletter Name: Transaxle Telegraph
Sample Newsletter:

North Texas Corvair Association - Transaxle Telegraph Newsletter - March 2013.pdf: North Texas Corvair Association - Transaxle Telegraph Newsletter - March 2013; (1.28 MiB) Downloaded 63 times

Website: http://www.northtexascorvair.org
Email (Primary): contactsmu@yahoo.com

Next Meeting: NTCA September Meeting

♦ Saturday, September 5, 2015, 2:00 PM
♦ Regular Meeting
♦ Presentation to be announced

September 5, 2015, Saturday - 2 p.m.
Meeting Program: To be announced
Regular Monthly Meeting at the Senter East building, 228 Chamberlain St.

Regular Monthly Meeting. Meet at the Senter East building, 228 Chamberlain St

Visitors and guests are always welcome. Come and join the fun!

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 2:59 pm**

Thank you for the information it was very helpful and I am going into this with my eyes wide open now. I plan to join the club already have been to one meeting as a guest and it was very informative. My budget is okay but not endless, like I said I have to get one with minimal rust since I am not a body person and I realize I will have to save up for a decent paint job.

Posted: **Sat Aug 22, 2015 3:38 pm**

This is the 66 I am looking at, if any one has any words of wisdom would apperciate, i have the pre purchase checklist.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5106014422.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

This is the other one already know it has rust on the passenger floorboard and door jam but the rebuilt engine makes this one appealing.

http://houston.craigslist.org/cto/5168928328.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Posted: **Sun Aug 23, 2015 7:08 am**

Welcome JD!

After looking at both ads, each car looks to me like it needs interior work and exterior work (gold with stripes really isn't my thing).

I would recommend taking each one on an extended drive. Get to know the cars and see what you think. The best advice I have ever seen offered is WAIT - and find the best structure possible.

Posted: **Sun Aug 23, 2015 9:54 am**

Thanks CAD-KID. I figured on the interior and paint on both but want to make sure the structure is sound as you mentioned. I am taking my time finding the right one that is for sure.

Posted: **Tue Aug 25, 2015 6:37 pm**

Well my 1966 Corvairs did not work out. The ones that said no rust well guess what rusted through the floor pan and the second had rust on the left connecting point of the suspension. I did find a sweet 1961 corvair, can anyone tell me has built up the engine on a 1961 ie increased performance and upgraded brakes. What is the weak point on the drive train.

Posted: **Wed Aug 26, 2015 12:06 am**

The 1961 Corvair has improvements and upgrades over the prototype 1960 Corvair. It is unique in that the carburetors have a manual choke (the only year with that feature). The original brakes must be manually adjusted, but I believe that the automatic adjusters can be fitted to the brake assemblies. I think the master cylinder is unique and does not permit using the later 1962-1966 master cylinder or upgrading to the 1967-69 dual master cylinder.

The 1961 engine cylinder bore was increased to increase the displacement from 140 CI (1960 only) to 145 CI (1961-1963). Early engines were fitted with the original distributor (with the snap-on cap and the centrifugal advance above the points, and under a large round rotor). In late 1961 the distributor was redesigned to the version found in late 1961-1969. The 1960-1961 fuel pump had a unique drive push rod, so if the original is still in place and you have to replace the fuel pump for any reason, the push rod must also be upgraded to match the newer fuel pumps. The 1961 oil cooler worked well, but tended to clog easily to block air flow. No PCV system was fitted to Corvair engines until 1963, so you will find a road draft tube on a 1961 (which meant contaminated oil was more of a problem — with sludge buildup more of an issue with early engines).

Many later engine enhancements, such as automatic chokes, newer distributor designs, alternators in place of generators, PCV systems, etc. could be adapted to the 1961 engine.

The front suspension in Corvairs was very similar from the beginning through 1969, but an anti-sway bar became optional in 1962 and was fitted on Spyders, and in 1964-1969 become standard on all Corvairs. The rear suspension was enhanced in 1964 with a transverse leaf spring to limit rear camber changes, and in 1965 the rear swing axle suspension went away and was replaced with a design copied from the Corvette Stingray. The drum brakes were enlarged significantly in 1965.

Overall, a clean 1961 Corvair can be a very nice Corvair to own. Any model year Corvair engine can be adapted to it. The style and appearance of the body and interior remained fairly constant from 1961-1964.

Weak point of the drive train? 1960-1964 Corvairs copied the Volkswagen beetle with its swing axle suspension. Rear camber changes accompanied wheel travel, so there were handling issues. This completely changed with the 1965 redesign. Both cars have their appeal and drawbacks. I like all the years, but I don't expect the 1960-1964 Corvairs to handle and brake as well as the 1965-1969 cars. You should try to drive samples of both Early Model and Late Model Corvairs to see how they feel and look to you, and then settle on the model you like the best. You may have to extend your search to southern climates to try to find clean, relatively rust-free bodies, because body rot is expensive and hard to overcome. It is worth taking your time to find the Corvair that is right for you.

Posted: **Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:31 am**

Brad

Thank you for the information. I have driven both of them and I have settled on this 61 just to sweet to pass up. I will post pictures when I have it in the driveway. It doesn't look like I can upgrade the master cylinder like you point out. I would like to add the swap bar and up date the bushing once I have her, need to find another engine to build out so I can replace it at a later time.

Posted: **Fri Aug 28, 2015 8:40 am**

Brad

I want to make sure I understand that any year Corvair engine will work in a 61 model. I was not sure if there were motor mount issues and will the transmission work as well?

Posted: **Fri Aug 28, 2015 12:19 pm**

The bell housing will match up correctly. The manual and automatic transmission bell housings are different, but either will attach properly to the Corvair engine. If you are converting from an automatic transmission transaxle to a manual transmission transaxle, or vice versa, the bell housing from the old engine must be attached to the new engine, and the associated torque converter/flex plate or clutch assembly must be transferred. If going from manual to automatic, the pilot bushing in the end of the crankshaft should be removed. If going the other way, a pilot bushing must be inserted to go along with the switch to a clutch assembly.

If the new engine is from a 1964 or later manual transmission Corvair, and the destination 1961 Corvair is also a manual transmission car, either clutch assembly may be used (whichever is in better condition). However, there are differences in the pressure plate, flywheel, throw out bearing, and pivot ball stud used with 1964-1969 Corvairs and those found in 1961-1963 Corvairs. Either assembly can be used, but ALL COMPONENTS MUST MATCH. You cannot mix some bent finger clutch parts with some flat finger clutch parts. The pivot ball stud mounted on the differential must also match the clutch assembly chosen.

The perimeter engine sheet metal on 1965-69 engines is different than the perimeter sheet metal on the 1961-1964 engines, because of the differences in the early and late model body styles (and associated engine compartment layouts). The 1961 perimeter sheet metal would have to be swapped if you are installing an engine from a 1965 or later car.

Engines from vans, trucks or station wagons have a unique oil filler tube that attaches to the bottom right side of the crankcase, near the oil pan. If your new engine is from a van, truck or station wagon, the provisions for adding oil would be different.

1965 and later engines have an alternator, instead of a generator. Many early Corvair owners prefer the alternator. Either will work in the 1961 car, but fitting an alternator to a 1961 car requires some wiring harness modifications and a voltage regulator that matches the alternator. The oil filter/generator adapter casting is different than the oil filter/alternator adapter casting, because of differences in the generator or alternator mount. Either will bolt to any Corvair engine, but the oil filter adapter chosen must match the charging system (generator or alternator) chosen.

The rear engine mount bracket for a late model engine has two holes, while the early mount has only one. In 1964 the engine displacement increased from 145 CI to 164 CI, and a different crankshaft pulley (cast or harmonic balancer) was added. Because of the added bulk of the 1964 and later crankshaft pulley/harmonic balancer, the 1961-1963 engine mount bracket shape does not permit adequate clearance to install or remove the fan belt from the newer pulleys. A 1964-1969 engine would require a rear mount bracket specifically from a 1964 Corvair to clear the pulley or harmonic balancer found on a 1964-1969 engine. This 1964 bracket has a shape that allows clearance, but it still has the single hole needed for the 1961-1964 rear engine mount.

1962-1969 engines all had automatic chokes. The carburetors that are mounted on those engines have the necessary hardware for the automatic choke mechanism. On a 1961 Corvair with a manual choke, the manual choke cable assembly is simply abandoned and removed when a 1962-1969 engine is fitted.

1960 engines have a lot of differences that only appeared in 1960, and disappeared the following year. You should avoid fitting a 1960 engine to a later Corvair.

If you fit a harmonic balancer, be sure to use the correct 1964 rear engine mount bracket, as shown below. The wrong bracket from 1963 or earlier will not leave adequate clearance for changing fan belts, and the 1965 or later design will not properly mate with the 1964 engine mount.

1960-1963 Motor Mount Bracket

1964 Motor Mount Bracket (Single Hole)

1965-1969 Motor Mount Bracket (Double Hole)

Skid Plate

Posted: **Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:36 am**

Brad

Thank you for the information, I will probably convert to alternator when the Generator fails or when I swap motors out. The 61 is a manual car.

Posted: **Sat Aug 29, 2015 10:57 am**

There were some unique configuration characteristics in the 1961 model year. I wrote the piece below to inform a California buyer who was considering a 1961 500 sedan. Some of the material may be useful to you...

The 1961 Corvair was the second production year for this car. There were quite a few engineering changes that were implemented between the introductory 1960 model year and the 1961 model year. The 1961 car was the only year that utilized a manual, cable-operated choke system. 1962-1969 Corvairs were all equipped with an automatic choke. This makes the carburetors on the 1961 Corvair unique in that they are not equipped for an automatic choke, and the automatic choke carburetors that were introduced in 1962 cannot be easily fitted to the 1961 Corvair.

The fuel pump design was modified in 1962 also. The pumps look identical but the original 1962 fuel pump utilized a different pushrod to actuate the pump. The later fuel pump design can be utilized on the 1961, but if you do the pushrod must also be changed to the later design. (This may have already occurred at some point during the 53 years of your car's existence. But if you ever have to replace the fuel pump you will have to examine the pushrod and pump design and compare it to the illustrations in the Clark's Corvair Parts online catalog to determine if your pump is the old design or the new design. Since the early design pumps are pretty much unavailable, purchasing a new design pump to replace an original pump normally requires the purchase of a replacement pushrod also.

The original 1960-1961 Corvair distributor design was also changed in 1962. The early design distributor used a different distributor cap and rotor and different internal components. The two distributors are shown in the picture below. The distributor on the right is the obsolete 1960-1961 design. I cannot tell in the picture of your Corvair's engine compartment whether or not the distributor in that car is the new or older design. The newer design distributor can be bolted in as a direct replacement, but if this is done the selection of a 1962-1969 distributor with a similar advance curve is usually recommended. The later design is somewhat easier to maintain and maintenance parts are easier to find for it. Also, the later design has the advantage that it can be modified to eliminate the ignition points and condenser and replace them with an electronic ignition that utilizes either a magnetic pulse or an optical trigger to control the ignition coil. Such a conversion improves reliability and eases maintenance chores. Both conversion kits are listed in the Clark's Corvair Parts online catalog, but as I mentioned this upgrade can only be done on the later design distributor.

This 1961 Corvair has the original all steel construction cooling fan. There were three cooling fan designs utilized over the years — with the final design being a lightweight magnesium fan that was implemented in 1964. The lightweight design of the magnesium fan did a better job of tracking engine speed changes while placing less strain on the fan belt. This upgrade in fan design, as well as fan belt design improvements did a lot for eliminating the Corvair's reputation for throwing fan belts. While not an essential modification, many Corvair owners choose to upgrade the cooling fans on 1960-1963 Corvairs by replacing it with a 1964 cooling fan. As a part of your inspection you should examine the cooling fan bearing assembly and the idler pulley bearing assembly for smooth, noise-free operation. It is possible that these bearings are the originals. If they are they are lubricated by grease in the sealed bearings that could be over 50 years old. Failing bearings can also produce fan belt reliability problems, so you should monitor the condition of the fan and idler bearings in this car. If either one becomes noisy or starts producing a howling sound, the bearings should be replaced. Upgrading to a magnesium cooling fan at the same time is a relatively inexpensive change that can also produce improved reliability in this critical area. Finally, if a fan belt is ever flipped while driving the car do not attempt to reinstall it — even if it appears to be intact. There are hidden support strands embedded in the belt to give it strength. A belt that flips is often damaged internally, and any attempt to reuse it will often result in the belt flipping again. It is a good idea to keep a spare fan belt and tools to replace it in the trunk. Never attempt to drive the car without a fan belt. The air cooled engine will quickly overheat and can be damaged by attempting to drive it without a fan belt.

If you decide to purchase this car I would suggest trying to find out as much as you can about its previous use and maintenance history. If the car is currently registered it may have seen regular use. But if it is not been driven for a long time your approach in putting it back on the road can be quite different. If you suspect that the fuel in the tank is old and stale, you should not attempt to start the engine until you have drained the old fuel and replaced it with fresh gasoline. Your comments about a leaky carburetor gasket is probably not an accurate diagnosis of the problem. The gaskets in the carburetors primarily keep fuel from splashing and leaking through the gap between the carburetor top and the carburetor main body. If fuel is leaking steadily it is more likely that the fuel level in the float bowl is not being properly controlled, causing the carburetor to flood. The Delco Rochester carburetors on the Corvair are of a relatively simple design. It would probably be wise to remove them, dismantle them, clean them in carburetor parts dip, and rebuild them with a pair of carburetor rebuild kits (which are relatively inexpensive). Following the Corvair shop manual instructions and carefully rebuilding the carburetors can establish a "known quantity" in the quality and condition of the existing carburetors. At the same time the fuel pump can be examined and tested for correct fuel pressure and volume output.

At the same time the spark plugs should be removed and a compression test should be performed on all cylinders to determine the condition of the pistons, piston rings, head gaskets and valves. This also establishes a known quantity with regard to the engine condition. The condition of the ignition parts can also be examined at this time, and any worn or questionable components can be replaced as a part of an initial tuneup.

Of course, it is a good idea to replace the oil and filter, and to inspect and possibly replace the air filters at the same time.

The original 1961-1964 Corvair utilized a battery that had a unique size and shape. Attempting to locate and install the original style battery can be expensive and is not necessary. The battery shown below will fit properly and is more economical…

The information below pertains to the Interstate battery line that fits the limited, odd sized battery box area in Early Model Corvairs. Feedback I've heard from buyers of the Interstate battery line seems to indicate that this brand is a quality product.

If you need a new battery, the odd size and shape of the EM battery box might confuse things a bit. Clark's charges quite a bit for a battery that is similar in appearance to the originals...

Part number C12541: 61-64 CAR & 61-65 FC SCRIPT BATTERY *1960 SEE C13056

Weight: 30 lbs 0 oz
Catalog Pages(s): 79, SUP-34
Price: $ 259.35

But there are some other choices that will fit, will provide better service, are locally available, and cost less. The battery information below has proven to provide a good fit in the standard early model Corvair (1961-1964) battery box.

Here is a battery tip for early model Corvairs like yours that may help you to get an affordable battery for your early Corvair. Be sure to compare the battery dimensions with the available battery space in your Corvair. The dealer catalogs and references are unlikely to tell them if this battery will fit your car...

freedo wrote:In my EM i ran a Interstate 51 battery, might have been a 51R can't remember off the top of my head. its a honda civic batter, its small so it fits in there, but it doesnt fill in the whole space. worked perfectly fine for me. cranked everytime, never let me down
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_e ... +++500+CCA

MEGA-TRON 51-R AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY 75 MONTHS 500 CCA

Get long life and premium performance with Interstate Batteries' Mega-Tron 51R. With 24-months free replacement and five-year performance, this 500 CCA automotive battery will meet or exceed your vehicle's starting requirements in any hot to moderate climate.

Sugg Retail Price: $107.95
List Price: $129.95
Dealer prices will vary

Product ID: MT-51R
Amps: 625
Cranking Amps: 625
Cold Cranking Amps: 500
Voltage: 12
Termination: A
Weight: 27.9
Width: 5.13
Length: 9.38
Height: 8.88
Plates: 24
WET/DRY: W

Here is some additional info on the use of the Interstate 51 battery...

freedo wrote:you have to make sure your tie down is tight or it will slide side to side. or you can make some plastic pieces to wedge it into shape. but interstate are strong good batteries. when i blew the motor up i had the lights on and the interior light on for almost a hour and when i went to start it up the next day it cranked right over
It appears that the only difference between the Interstate MT-51R and the MT-51 is the location of the positive and negative battery terminals...

MEGA-TRON 51-R AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY 75 MONTHS 500 CCA
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_e ... +++500+CCA

MEGA-TRON 51 AUTOMOTIVE BATTERY FIVE-YEAR PERFORMANCE 500 CCA
http://www.interstatebatteries.com/cs_e ... L4%2f1.3L)

As shown in the picture below, the correct battery appears to be the Interstate MT-51R, which places the positive terminal correctly on the right when the battery is placed in the battery area with the terminals facing the engine.

Whenever the battery is disconnected from the vehicle for any reason the polarization procedure should be performed.

The recommendation on how to polarize a charging system is the following: After the installation of a battery, generator or voltage regulator follow these procedures. The terminals on the voltage regulator are labeled with letters and this is where you will do the polarizing procedure. Both of the components will have battery power so do not start the vehicle or turn on the ignition switch before polarizing them. You will need a small piece of wire fourteen or sixteen gauge with alligator clips on the ends. Find the "Batt" terminal on the regulator and attach one of the alligator clips, find the "Armature" terminal and touch the terminal with the other alligator clip. You can touch the terminals a few times and it will produce a soft light spark.

Under no circumstances touch the "Field" terminal or any other part of the regulator or you could damage the regulator.

http://www.vv.corvair.org/pipermail/vir ... 13475.html

What you want to do is polarize the generator. If in fact it ran with reverse polarity, everything should be fine after this process. You should not have damaged anything yet.

With key off, use a piece of 14 gage or larger wire to jump between the battery and armature terminals of the voltage regulator. I am at work without a shop manual, so I forget the actual writing on the terminals. BUT, it is the top and middle terminal on Corvairs (with the regulator mounted stock position, red wires on top terminal).

It will spark! Hold for 1 or 2 seconds. The wire may also get warm, be prepared.

Start engine again and check for red light going out.
IT IS IMPORTANT TO POLARIZE A NEW GENERATOR BY FOLLOWING THE PROCEDURES IN THE CORVAIR SHOP MANUAL. THIS PROCEDURE IS DESCRIBED ON PAGE 8-18 OF THE ATTACHED SHOP MANUAL SECTION. This polarizing procedure applies ONLY to vehicles equipped with a GENERATOR. It does not apply to vehicles equipped with an alternator.

When working on the Corvair engine, you will need to develop good habits with regard to working with aluminum components. Much of the Corvair engine was manufactured using aluminum, which is a relatively soft and easily damaged material. Bolts that screw into aluminum threads should be carefully threaded by hand to avoid the possibility of cross-threading. The use of anti-seize compound to coat the threads is recommended. A torque wrench should be utilized to properly tighten all fasteners using specifications listed in the Corvair shop manual. This will help you to avoid damaging any threads in the Corvair engine.

The Corvair clutch and parking brake are both controlled by cables. These long cables are routed through several pulleys on their way to the back of the car. Over the years the cables and pulleys can deteriorate, and a cable can break without warning. Obviously a broken parking brake cable can be a disaster if your car rolled away! (I usually leave my Corvair in gear as a backup to the parking brake). A broken clutch cable can be a "show-stopper" that can leave you stranded with an inability to drive the car and shift gears. For these reasons the cables and pulleys should be inspected regularly, following the procedures outlined in the shop manual. Many Corvair owners who own a Corvair with a manual transmission choose to keep a spare clutch cable in the trunk. If you find that your clutch cable is serviceable but aging you may choose to purchase and install a new cable. (The old but serviceable cable can be retained as an emergency spare in the trunk, if you choose).

I have covered a lot of engine-related material here. It would be a good idea to also thoroughly examine the remainder of the car before driving it. The function of all electrical components should be tested. If you don't know how old the brake fluid is you should consider flushing and refilling the brake system. Regular brake fluid is hygroscopic, which means that it readily absorbs moisture from the air. Aging brake fluid can contain a relatively high percentage of water (which has a lower boiling point than brake fluid). Operating brakes with brake fluid that is contaminated with a high percentage of water can result in brake fade as the water content reacts to heat buildup in the brake system. Also, a water buildup in the brake system can cause rust and corrosion in the steel brake lines, master cylinder, and wheel cylinders. You should examine the condition of the brake assemblies, components, and check for leaks. A thorough brake inspection and flushing, refilling and bleeding the brake system will help you to ensure a safe vehicle. (The use of DOT 5 silicone brake fluid is often recommended in place of the original DOT 3 fluid. Silicone brake fluid is not hygroscopic. The cost is a little higher, but it's use will eliminate water contamination problems and will reduce the possibility of corrosion in the hydraulic brake components).

All suspension components should be examined. Ball joints and other front suspension components with grease fittings should be lubricated. Front wheel bearings should be cleaned, inspected, repacked and adjusted. With regard to the rear axle bearings (which are difficult to maintain and service, and are often neglected), here's a quote from the Clark's Corvair Parts catalog…

Clark's Corvair Parts Online Catalog, Page 165 wrote:REAR AXLE (WHEEL) BEARINGS — 1960-1964 CARS

The rear axle bearings are probably the most dangerous part of the whole car. It is not uncommon for the axle shaft to pull right out. In some cases the axle shaft just worked out and others the bearing has failed. The 1965-69 style fixed this but people with the earlier style should not ignore any possible bearing noises!
Rear axle universal joints also tend to be neglected — especially if they are not equipped with grease fittings. These also should be inspected and serviced or replaced, if needed.

Common and Useful Corvair Websites

Corvair Forum viewtopic.php?f=225&t=6007

Corvair Forum

New Member in Dallas

New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas

Re: New Member in Dallas