Re: County98's Learn as I Go Thread
Posted: Sat Aug 29, 2015 5:29 pm
Next I finished hand scraping the floor with a couple sizes of metal putty knives. After all that shenanigans, I went over the whole thing with a wire cup on my cordless drill.
Super NOT a good time. PLEASE wear some good eye protection and at least a painters mask over your breathing holes. No joke. Rust, metal, mouse poop, rotted cloth fibers, dust... you hopefully get the picture.
Okay, mildly more fun, but still a long sweaty day was the actual coating. I did 2 full, thick coats of Rust Bullet. I didn't mess with the black Topshell, this will all be covered.
There is a forever debate on the "proper" way to fix rust. The hardcores will swear you must cut it all out and weld in new steel. They're not wrong. BUT, my floors were 98% intact with a few pin holes and a couple spots I could see through. Like literally 3 spots. My goal is just a car I can seal up and feel safe that my wife's feet won't go through the floor. I'm comfortable with this fix FOR ME. DO as much as your budget, time, and skills allow.
Sample fix for full disclosure: This is the little spot on the rear seat bottom I found. It's reflective of all 3 of my patch areas and about the same size. Again, none of these areas are in a weight load bearing area. The actual places you press your feet were all fine in my car. Also, none were of structure members, just low spots in the tin.
Coated area:
Got it good and wet and applied a fiberglass cloth patch at least twice the area of the repair.
Coated over the patch, soaking it solid in Rust Bullet (this stuff dries hard like an epoxy coat, same as POR-15) Viola'. That's it. Not sexy, but I think effective for my needs. Sealed and solid for probably many years.
Full monty: I only did the pans up to about the height of the sill area. Except the rear, that got done up to the rear window for fumes and stuff. The darker gray on the rear window sides, kick panel steel, and up under dash is just Rustoleum self-etching primer I picked up at Harbor Freight. After the metal putty knives and wire wheel, I just wanted it all mostly coated with SOMETHING.
None of this will ever be seen again after re-assembly.
Going to let it cure out and harden for a couple days and then maybe Monday I'll give the seat mounting a shot. Excited about that, lol.
Super NOT a good time. PLEASE wear some good eye protection and at least a painters mask over your breathing holes. No joke. Rust, metal, mouse poop, rotted cloth fibers, dust... you hopefully get the picture.
Okay, mildly more fun, but still a long sweaty day was the actual coating. I did 2 full, thick coats of Rust Bullet. I didn't mess with the black Topshell, this will all be covered.
There is a forever debate on the "proper" way to fix rust. The hardcores will swear you must cut it all out and weld in new steel. They're not wrong. BUT, my floors were 98% intact with a few pin holes and a couple spots I could see through. Like literally 3 spots. My goal is just a car I can seal up and feel safe that my wife's feet won't go through the floor. I'm comfortable with this fix FOR ME. DO as much as your budget, time, and skills allow.
Sample fix for full disclosure: This is the little spot on the rear seat bottom I found. It's reflective of all 3 of my patch areas and about the same size. Again, none of these areas are in a weight load bearing area. The actual places you press your feet were all fine in my car. Also, none were of structure members, just low spots in the tin.
Coated area:
Got it good and wet and applied a fiberglass cloth patch at least twice the area of the repair.
Coated over the patch, soaking it solid in Rust Bullet (this stuff dries hard like an epoxy coat, same as POR-15) Viola'. That's it. Not sexy, but I think effective for my needs. Sealed and solid for probably many years.
Full monty: I only did the pans up to about the height of the sill area. Except the rear, that got done up to the rear window for fumes and stuff. The darker gray on the rear window sides, kick panel steel, and up under dash is just Rustoleum self-etching primer I picked up at Harbor Freight. After the metal putty knives and wire wheel, I just wanted it all mostly coated with SOMETHING.
None of this will ever be seen again after re-assembly.
Going to let it cure out and harden for a couple days and then maybe Monday I'll give the seat mounting a shot. Excited about that, lol.