Corvair Forum

Well it's been a good while but I'm finally working on this car again. Making my own wiring harness. Here's the first of several videos

Looks like you are off to a great start.
On my schematics I like to call out voltages more specifically. Some titles would not be used in all vehicles of course.

12C = always constant power.
12S = power when key in "start" position only.
12R = power when key in "run" position only.
12A = power in accessory only.
12SR = power when key in "start or run" position.
12SRA = power when key in "start, run, or accessory" position.
12RA = power when key in "run or accessory" position.
12.0RA = fully regulated 12.0 volts* in "run and accessory".

*Normal vehicle power fluctuates or course. If a power wire is voltage regulated (I sometimes run voltage regulation in more sensitive areas) I will call out a feed with a decimal point added such as "12.0RA" for instance to indicate that those devices are being fed by fully regulated power.

BTW, did you notice your video title is spelled "writing" instead of "wiring". :)

azdave wrote:Looks like you are off to a great start.
On my schematics I like to call out voltages more specifically. Some titles would not be used in all vehicles of course.

12C = always constant power.
12S = power when key in "start" position only.
12R = power when key in "run" position only.
12A = power in accessory only.
12SR = power when key in "start or run" position.
12SRA = power when key in "start, run, or accessory" position.
12RA = power when key in "run or accessory" position.
12.0RA = fully regulated 12.0 volts* in "run and accessory".

*Normal vehicle power fluctuates or course. If a power wire is voltage regulated (I sometimes run voltage regulation in more sensitive areas) I will call out a feed with a decimal point added such as "12.0RA" for instance to indicate that those devices are being fed by fully regulated power.

Hey I like that. I'm going to do a re-draw. I need to add a couple of 5v circuits to run my LED lighting in a couple parts and the charging circuit for the phone and GPS.

azdave wrote:BTW, did you notice your video title is spelled "writing" instead of "wiring". :)

Yes! Damn smart phone doesn't spell check and I don't either at 3 A.M. when I finally got that made and uploaded... should be fixed now.

Well I'm making progress. Got the new pan on and the temp sender plug put in. Probably not a great place but we'll just call it "oil pan temp"

I like it man, your wiring has inspired me, I need to start!

I have an oil pan just like that one.

Gregory_Miller wrote:I have an oil pan just like that one.

I like it. I was torn between Clark's and Otto but I was more convinced by the extensive deep fins on the inside of pan providing more cooling space.

Speaking of oil and such. I also want to put on my external oil radiator.
Q: Need the bigger pump gears?
Q: How do you attach the hoses to the engine? Had 2 ideas on that. Either delete the 12 plate cooler hookups. OR... Delete the oil filter bracket and move oil filter to external location and hose from there to the cooler, leaving the 12 plate in place.

I think most people use an adapter that replaces the stock oil coolerwith hose fittings.

I've got one of those oil pans too.. I've got one Clarks and one Otto... mine has had the oil temp sender ground halfway off by a PO.. apparently it managed to contact the road.. maybe he had a steep driveway.

cvair4life wrote:Finally got her up on a lift today.


5. Investigate changing to a dual chamber master cylinder (Has anyone does this already and have a thread in here?)

7. Tach issue.... (sticks around 3500 and 5500)
13. Add quick-shifter (from '68)

hey guys. i recently bought a 64 corvair 700 monza. I am wondering if anyone knows about the things I cc'ed that may convert to my car. My car is a 3 speed manual, but has no tach, how difficult is it to just add an aftermarket one? (including wiring) also is there a way to replace the current 3 on the floor shifter with a slightly different set up? Dont mean to hijack the thread, pm's would be awesome if the OP doesn't have the info im lookin for....

Really like that car by the way, it makes me want my next car to be a 2 dr corvair.... Also you have given me some good ideas about how to organize my engine compartment... I am doing similar work on my car by replacing front ball joints, brakes all around (probably including metal brake lines from master through the whole car). Also the video of the gauges you have for your car makes me want a cool dash / under dash setup for some kind of motor observation...... thanks for posting!

Hey I hadn't even noticed your post HondaGuy. Yeah it's coming along just fine so far.

I haven't done the dual master change yet.
The aftermarket tach is really easy to add... almost too easy. It comes with the directions in the box.. you thread an extra wire to the back and some power wires to the tach up front and voila.

I've heard that some of the dual master cyl kits are not really a dual system with extra lines , but a single system with just a 2 chamber, single outlet master cyl....is this true?....And dont get me started on oil pans and spacers

No thats not true. I have a kit on my 62. It is a bonafide dual cylinder two steel lines the whole nine yards as they say.

You raise a very important subject here!!!

The problem is that MANY people have experienced a total loss of brakes WITH the dual master cylinder kit installed when only the front or rear was compromised. I had this happen myself only a week or so after installing a Dual MC kit in my 63.

I'm about 90% certain that I've tracked down the problem... once I verify it might wind up in the Communique and I'll try to get clarks to include a note with the kits.

So my current theory is that the problem is in adjustment. If you install the Dual MC kit your brakes will work fine, but if you don't adjust the pedal up it is VERY likely that you won't have enough total travel to make the thing work when one chamber goes dry. The solution is to simply adjust your brake pedal height as high as possible/practical (make sure you don't overdo it and make them drag!).

I intended to do some hardcore testing of this problem and solution over this past summer, but the car that has the Dual MC is a daily driver and I never got around to it. I need to open the bleeders at one end of the car then test to see if the brakes work at all... then bleed it and open the other end up and test again. I know for sure that I had absolutely no brakes whatsoever last year when a front brake line ruptured.... I pumped like a madman and got nothing but a squishing noise... this has happened to many people. Fortunately I was able to stop with the hand brake.

Hope this helps some of you out!

mart wrote:I've heard that some of the dual master cyl kits are not really a dual system with extra lines , but a single system with just a 2 chamber, single outlet master cyl....is this true?....And dont get me started on oil pans and spacers

UPDATE!!! UPDATE!!! UPDATE!!! UPDATE!!! UPDATE!!!

I put my Wolff carbs on and my new pipes... this is the first start I've heard on my Vair in ALL WINTER

Bump and new subject.

Guys I'm dreaming about finally cleaning up my car and bringing it to my new home in San Antonio. Car is in northern Utah and the current "plan" is to fly home, tune up, run through the paces, get good AAA plan, and drive it back to Texas. So I want to make any heat modifications you all might have when I'm tuning and prepping in Utah.

To keep it simple - All this stuff is already done
Engine: stock 140.
No lower shrouds - clark's headers on.
Electric fuel pump installed.
New fuel and brake lines,
new wiring, new fuse block and wiring,
New brakes
stock dizzy
nothing else fancy

Suggestions for keeping these cars healthy in the 100+ heat are appreciated.