Corvair Forum

Tony how did you get the hub apart to put on the adapter? Do you guys have a press?

We indeed had to go get them pressed out at the local mechanic shop.

Tony, do you think you could make the the plate in two pieces so you would not have to take the hub apart? That would seriously make this a bolt on at home set up. Can't wait to see the ebrake hook up.

SpyderMan wrote:Tony, do you think you could make the the plate in two pieces so you would not have to take the hub apart? That would seriously make this a bolt on at home set up. Can't wait to see the ebrake hook up.

Or, better yet, cut a "U" shape in a area that does not have any bolts holes so the plate can simply slip over the hub. It just depends upon whether there is enough space between the bolt holes to accommodate the width of the hub.

You'd still have to remove the backing plate, and I THINK you have to take it apart to do that anyway.

Indeed. the backing plate must be removed that way anyway.

Hacksaw or torch to the backing plate and no hub disassembly required!

LOL. indeed. Im sure it's possible to construct the bracet with a U shape cutout (or just take ours and cut it with a jigsaw)

Me personally, I'd take the chance to repack those bearings. In most cases they're 40+ years old and need it!

TonyL
Do you think the ’93 Camaro setup would fit inside 15” rims? I think the standard size in '93 was 16". Usually the fronts discs are larger than the rears...

I'll have to check. Our design uses the camaro REAR only on the front and rear of the vair for that reason.

Im thinking they'd fit, but it'd be really close.

Right on Tony. You & Dan have done a fantastic job on those brakes. Maybe you could make "templates" to sell at the meet? That way "you're" not responsible for any liabilities. I do get it though. Maybe a "thin" template with a list of instructions on it. Yeah, that's it. (wink wink)

Hey, so how are things going? I'm trying to get my sled ready for the meet, but keep running into little things. I'd better try and put 3 days together next week to get some things done. Too bad you guys are so far away. gggg

I had to move my lower shock mount too but not as much as Tony. If I made my brackets again I would rotate them up a bit and then the shock could stay in original position. Not a big deal either way.

Here's a pic of mine. I cut off one side of the shock bushing and shimmed it inboard in the mount bracket. There is even more clearance when the car is on the ground.

Danny's car has been at the upholstery shop, they're making templates of everything to finalize the inside of his car. He's just gotten the linkages all re-done in the doors (he used some heat shrink on the rods where they rub and clank together, He's crazy like that.) The doors on his car sound good killer. no rattles or anything. We *still* haven't gotten around to getting the fronts done.

Me, I've been finishing up my wheels. I litterally just came from the tire shop getting them speed balanced. I go to tognotti's tomorrow to order my hub centric rings. I'll be picking up an oil breather catch can or something while Im there. I've got some engine compartment upgrades in mind. Once I have those rings, the wheel/tire job will be officially done.

My head arrived at Levair performance today. And Im sure it'll get fixed up and returned soon. I paid my tags on my car yesterday. So it's legal.
Just tying up loose ends.

The Sacramento show is April 30 right?? Why do keep thinking it's this month?

You still have time Tony. April 30 thru May 02 .... so there is still things you can do to the car. gggg

4 wheel disks are DONE! He actually drove it today. It stops very well. It was tested with the stock master cylinder to see if it even stops at all, and he reported that its stops incredibly well this way. Interestingly, without a proportioning valve, it locked up the rear brakes first, which was unexpected.

He came up with a real clever way to adapt the new brake calipers to the existing lines up front via a hard line with an "old" connector on one end, and a new type connector on the other, to mate to the caliper's banjo fitting hose. It even fit in the stock braket with only a slight mod with a file.

The calipers do hit the upper A arm at full lock, a slight clearancing will fix that, and it should be good to go. Pics and video to ensue when I find the stupid cable for my camera.

one i snapped with my phone...

the "rusty" discoloration on the rotor isnt really there in real life. Its an artifact from my phone's camera. Bizarre.