Corvair Forum

Nice wheel covers. They do add a bit of class

Thanks

BTW - I am still looking for a set of rebuild-able carbs (at least a pair of secondaries, but would prefer a whole set)

Ok, I posted this set of question over on the other board here http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,893949
Need, help/advise/parts

I figure the link is easier than retyping. (if it is preferred the other way let me know and I will copy and paste the issue directly here and remove the link)

ok, looking for some help here....

I adjusted the valves last weekend, was running great.
I replaced the plug wires with a set from Seth (one at a time)
During each wire replacement, i pulled the spark plug, cleaned and set the gap, did a compression check, then reinstalled

It would not start afterwards.

Rechecked all wires and firing order...

In the middle of this process the starter nosecone broke..

Fast forward to this last weekend, I replaced the starter and added a Stinger Coil (from Seth) tried again. NO JOY.

I am CERTAIN I am getting fuel.
Here are my electrical readings

12.34v across the battery terminals

With the key off"
ZERO voltage across the coil
ZERO voltage from coil + to ground

with the key in the on position
2.75v measured across the coil
3.94v measured form Coil + to Ground

NOTE: I do have a "pertronix"

The problem is that when I was doing my compression check, I left the coil wire attached. Doing this and not having a plug on a wire when turning it over fried the Igniter.

I installed the Old Points plate and points and with a little gap adjustment, she fired right up!!

Running MUCH better now. Timing at 14deg, idle at 700, dwell at .32

Compression was ok

6-125 5-125
4-120 3-125
2-115 1-120

After getting it all together, it would not start. Period.

I verified I am getting fuel.
I replaced the new coil wire with the old one(in case) No effect.

Then I heard a grinding sound from the starter area...
Next attempt it ground to a halt.

When I originally bought this car a month ago, I had to replace the starter because the Bendix had failed and the nose cone was broken. I was advised at that point that I may have a "loose riveted flywheel", but once the starter was replaced everything worked great and started smoothly every time.

Back to Saturday, I walked away because I was already frustrated and it was late. I had family issues come up on Sunday so nothing else happened with it.

so, my questions are:

1. Should I just replace the starter again and hope for the best (not likely)
2. Pull the Diff and PG and replace the flywheel?
3. Is the flywheel available separately from the torque converter?
4. Are the PG and 4 speed versions unique or the same?

sigh..... Thanks in Advance.

Steve

Those compression numbers look pretty decent. I'm not sure that cranking the engine without spark plugs installed or the coil wire grounded would fry the Pertronix Ignitor.

LIMITED WARRANTY
PerTronix, Inc. warrants to the original Purchaser of its solid-state
ignition system (product) that the Ignitor shall be free from defects in material
and workmanship for a period of (30) months from the date of purchase.
If within the period of the foregoing warranty PerTronix finds, after inspection,
that the product or any component thereof is defective, PerTronix will, at
its option, repair such products or component or replace them with identical
or similar parts PROVIDED that within such period Purchaser:
1. Promptly notifies PerTronix, in writing, of such defects.
2. Delivers the defective products product or component to PerTronix
(Attn: Warranty) with proof of purchase date; and
3. Has installed and used the product in a normal and proper
manner, consistent with PerTronix printed instructions.

I would recommend that you call or write Pertronix Technical Support, using the link below. Perhaps start with a phone call to their technical support people and describe your starting problem, and show that the car does start when you substituted points and condenser. (Remember that the Pertronix electronics REQUIRES a full 12 VDC power source. If your installation included the Corvair resistor wire in the circuit, you were only providing a nominal 7 VDC and the electronics might not function with that low voltage feed.)

Pertronix wrote:Q. How to correct a low voltage problem?

A. First, if you have an external ballast resistor, connect the red Ignitor™ wire to the ignition wire prior to the ballast resistor. Second, if you do not have a ballast resistor you must locate a 12 volt source that is controlled by the ignition switch to connect the red Ignitor™ wire to.

If you discuss your situation with their technical support and they feel that the fault is with their system and that it is covered under warranty, you should be able to get a replacement.

http://support.pertronix.com/

Technical Assistance
440 East Arrow Highway
San Dimas, CA 91773
Phone: (909) 547-9058
Fax: (909) 599-6424

I think upgrading the Corvair with a breakerless system is a good path to follow. If your Pertronix unit is determined to be faulty and is covered under warranty, install a new one. If I were doing such an upgrade, my first choice would be a new Stinger distributor from Seth Emerson http://www.perfvair.com/stinger-ignition-distributors/. My second choice would be an optical unit (XR700) from Crane Cams (based on comments from other Corvair owners). Pertronix would be my last choice. Too many problems, and the Ignitor II version appears to have a design fault when using it with a Powerglide-based Corvair that idles slower than the Pertronix Ignitor II would like.

When cranking the engine while doing a compression test, I would recommend using an inexpensive remote starter switch, which clips on to the solenoid and permits cranking the engine with the key OFF. Unplug the two-wire plastic connector that connects to the solenoid too. This prevents voltage from reaching the coil while the solenoid is engaged. (You can use the pigtail from the solenoid to hook up the remote starter switch. One clip connects to the purple wire going to the solenoid, while the other clip connects to the battery positive terminal). This way there is no chance of the ignition system being energized while you crank away while reading your compression tester.



Has your starter problem been resolved?

thanks! Yes, the starter was replaced. The nose cone was cracked in half. I rotated the torque converter and none of the teeth on the starter ring gear are broken, some are a little bit worn, and some show galled aluminum. Once the starter was replaced, it works great.

It was the feedback from several members on the other forum led me to swap out the Igniter. Certainly worked. I kinda like the points, was certainly a wayback machine kind of feeling doing a gap and dwell check for the first time in 30 years... I found that I felt about the same way as I do when working on Antique sewing machines, the old ones that are purely mechanical are a joy to work with!

I will not go back to the Pertronix unit, if I change in the future, it will be to a Seth distributor. I will contact Pertronix this week to see if there is a way to bench test the Igniter unit, but I am not interested in using it again. It will become tradebait!

Now to get the components that are missing to get my heater back up and working, Both engine to heater hoses and clamps, the top shroud adapter to the squared off hose, as well as the hose itself, and last but not least, the plastic defroster "y"... ahh the joys.

I also need to replace the Engine wiring harness. (The current one is spliced in about 6 places and the wire covering is cracking any time it is bent) I know I can get a new one from Cal Corvairs but I am looking for a nice used one if I can find one (same for my Frunk wiring)

Cool car,I live in Vallejo,I have a 66 corsa turbo and 6 other vairs

Cool. This weekend the San Francisco Bay Area Corsa group we're doing our first "go for a drive" casual get together. We are meeting at Chabot College and driving over to the Niles antique District.

PM me if interested. I'll add you to the email list.

I was President of that club for a while,haven't been since it moved from the orinda library.

Black Bear Diner in Danville now. I asked at the meeting a month ago if we did "casual drives" and they all started talking about how much stress and hassle it was to set that up... I chuckled and said that my idea was NO stress. Like this weekend.... I emailed the group that I will be at the college at 11:30. I will be leaving at 12 noon. Anyone who wants can show up, if nobody does, I still have a fun drive. Look, no stress!

SteveH wrote:Black Bear Diner in Danville now. I asked at the meeting a month ago if we did "casual drives" and they all started talking about how much stress and hassle it was to set that up... I chuckled and said that my idea was NO stress. Like this weekend.... I emailed the group that I will be at the college at 11:30. I will be leaving at 12 noon. Anyone who wants can show up, if nobody does, I still have a fun drive. Look, no stress!

Love that outlook!

Mike

Cool Steve,not sure if I can make it but maybe! It would
Be cool to see if any of the old members still remember me haha!

Hey folks, I am still trying to find the 1965 interior trim code translation of "798-" from my Tag. (it is on the first page of posts in this thread)

I have seen it described as white and as white with black. I am planning to replace the 66 style interior with the correct 65 style and I may as well go to the original color.

Code 798 is "Ivory"

http://www.tpocr.com/chevybp5.html

I am seeing other places that the 798 is the white/black trim. (White seats, door panels, and headliner, black paint and dash)

I am trying to find out for sure. THANK you for the response and source!

Here: http://corvaircenter.com/phorum/read.php?1,746491
Here: http://wittelaw.com/personal/buildtag/index.htm (third one down)