1966 Monza 110 leaking diff oil again

[ed farley]

Thanks for more info:)

The rebuilt 110 came with the bellhousing.

I am using Clark's seals...

I got everything unhooked from the engine and will drop it out of the car tomorrow. I plan to examine all I find once I separate the diff/trans from the engine..

Thanks! Ed

[Dennis66]

It goes back to the "multiple eyes on a problem" thing. This is one of the great strengths of this forum. I remember many years ago getting my tail whipped by a small engine that I just couldn't get to run right. After a while the shop foreman told me to take e break from it and had another mechanic look at it. He discovered that he crankshaft bearing was sloppy and it was causing the points to open and close erratically (POINTS, it was that long ago). I had assumed that because it was ball bearings that the crank bearing would be tight. Fresh set of eyes.
Also why I often go back and reread all th eposts on a problem to see what I may have missed. I often find something that I overlooked.

[jimbrandberg]

Dennis66 wrote:
"I actually installed on engine by plugging the input shaft into the clutch, sliding the front end into the differential, and feeding the whole thing in by sliding the input shaft in."
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That's how I usually do it, on the floor resting on wood blocks with everything on the same plane.
I have a pair 3/8-16 x 2" set screws for the bell housing to differential to line them up when I get close.
I can't remember ruining an input shaft seal doing it this way. I don't know how folks can do it when they use 2 seals instead of the split washer.
I've just usually found it easier than trying to engage the splines in the clutch disc and the end in the pilot bushing although I need to do that if removing the engine only from the chassis.

I'm largely self taught which probably isn't all it's cracked up to be. I'm certainly open to reading of different ways of doing things, I learn new stuff here all the time.

I thought I saw an earlier comment about using RTV on the seal but I can't find it now. I like to use something on the rubber parts of the seal that's compatible with the oil since the oil will be doing the job in the long run. I've taken to putting "regular" grease in the back side "cave" of the seal with a chemical brush and then putting oil on the lips and also on the shaft. There was a period where I used Sil-Glyde on seals but I thought that was perhaps problematic.
Back side of the seal is towards the inside of the differential not the back side of the chassis.
I put the split in the washer up but it's probably not a big deal.
I haven't thought a whole bunch about how deep the seal goes in the snout. It's like it goes in freely, comes to a place where it needs help and then goes in further about the width of the seal shell until it's "home". I just use a socket on my 3" extension that's especially for pounding purposes.
Of course one needs to be mindful of the seal size for shaft diameter size but there's only 2 to choose from, 63 and earlier or 64 and later.
I wish I had more ideas but I can't think of anything unless it's motor oil instead of gear oil.
I sure don't mean to be offensive by speaking of basic things but sometimes it jogs the realization. It's obvious you've been around the block with the working on cars thing.