Wrist pin slid out

[vairmech]

OK, with the new pictures the piston is an aftermarket, probably a TRW. I'm not sure that I have a TRW piston but I do have a new aftermarket piston in STD. The pictures also show that the rods are the big rods. So it boils down to what do the bearings look like for wear and also check the gap of the rings.
The above will tell you the overall condition of your engine and then which way to go for repairs or rebuild.

[Dennis66]

Not mentioned yet. Use short pieces of pipe - even PVC and two head nuts to hold the cylinders in place while assembling or disassembling the engine. See bottom of page 4 of my build for details. Dennis

[Vairone]

OK, with the new pictures the piston is an aftermarket, probably a TRW.

Aftermarket or GM, I have noticed that most of the early cast pistons are in the same weight range. Your GM piston should be close enough for his use.

[RexJohnson]

You only need 1 tube and nut to hold the cylinder in place while assembling an engine.

[OldnSlow]

UPDATE:
So after y'alls expert advice, what I have decided to do, is replace one cylinder, with the accompanying piston and rod. I ordered a new cylinder, piston, reconditioned rod, rings and rod bearing from Clarks. I had Clarks press the wrist pin on. I have had time waiting for parts to put my engine to body seals on as well, tried the staples, pffft, that sucked, I just drilled and riveted
I have found all kinds of tomfoolery and fu*#ery while taking things apart. I have had to helicoil some valve cover bolt holes (2), I found a wood screw in one of the holes, a sheet metal screw and washer in another, all sorts of things that make me nervous about the joker that did the last valve cover removal. One side has 3/8 inch bolts, while the other has 5/16 inch and an old helicoil in that side as well. I have found myself deep down the rabbit hole of "while I'm in there".
The advice I have received has been so helpful, many, many thanks. I used some pvc to keep the other cylinders in place while I rotate things, love that tip.
All of the tins have been cleaned up and painted, new o-rings for the tubes, oil cooler, and gaskets for the oil pan, bell housing, new seal there too. I put new exhaust manifold packings in and I have been running thread chasers in EVERYTHING.
And "VAIRMECH", can't thank you enough for the offer to send my gear out to have you find me the correct parts, I may take you up on that one, day, that being said, if you are ever in up in the rockies in N Utah, stop by, I will have a cold one ready for you (diet coke, water, beer, tequila, whatever your poison happens to be)

[66vairguy]

In case nobody has said it yet --- ALWAYS measure and confirm tolerances YOURSELF. Nobody is perfect and I've occasionally found new parts, or machine shop work, that was NOT the correct size or the tolerances were incorrect. Good luck

[OldnSlow]

Headed out to grab some plasitgage today, thanks for the advice!

[OldnSlow]

Ok, so for an update on this fuster cluck I have going on here. I have it all back together and running pretty well. Everything seems to be mated up well, I don't have any leaks so far, and the engine is smooth considering I haven't addressed much in the way of ignition and carburation. It fires right up, runs temps that are reasonable and is overall better than I expected, thanks to all of the expert advice. All that being said, I did find a 65 110 long block that I don't know a lot about but the price was right, so I may dive into that over the winter. Stay tuned for what I can send down the rabbit hole next!!

[jimbrandberg]

You mentioned this a while back but I hate when people drill out the aluminum for a bigger bolt. First thing is the hole is now too big for a Helicoil. Second thing is the gasket has to be modified forevermore and more inclined to leak.
I'm glad to hear you overcame the obstacles and have it back together.