French owner introduction - 1966 4-doors Corvair

[66vairguy]

That's really intesresting to read all that.

That's understood regarding the lead substitute, I won't do anymore I promise!

Regarding my brakes, I changed my rubber brake hoses like 2 years ago when I bought the car so I don't think the issue comes from this side.
My brake shoes don't look so dirty neither (no oil) but they are probably very old so I'm pretty confident changing them may solve the brake issue.

If the brake shoe linings are not cracked, or discolored in places, they should be fine. Brake shoe linings are either bonded on by adheasive or they are riveted on. I avoid riveted brake shoe linings because they can damage the brake drum when the lining wears down. If your drums are smooth, no deep grooves or rust pitting, they should not be an issue. I'd inspect all the parts to make sure they are in the proper place. The adjuster wheels at the bottom are DIFFERENT for each side. A lever (usually worn out and available) will push down on the projections from the adjuster wheel to tighten the brakes. You can push down on the lever to move the wheel and it should TIGHTEN the brakes shoes (move them further apart). If the brake shoes are adjusted too loose or too tight (one side vs. the other) than can cause pull to one side. There should be a slot in the brake drum to insert a tool to manually adjust the brake wheel. Sometimes the brake drum has no slot, just a oblong mark the supposedly can by "knocked out". I've never had one I could "knock out" and I drill the hole and slot it. Clark's sells a rubber plug to insert in the adjuster hole.

Oh! Originally the brake shoes had shorter linings on one shoe vs. the other (often replacement brake shoes use the same lining length on ALL shoes). See attachment for orientation.

[auquomes]

Thank you very much for your explanations: that's much clearer in my mind.
I think I've got it all.
Regarding the bearings, I've found the correct references, but for the seal I'm not sure.
For once, I'd like to try another supplier (Rockauto) and not asking Clark's as I've always used to do.
Do you think this seal should be the correct one?

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.ph ... &jsn=10516

Do you confirm front seal is only made for inner bearing? I can see for rear axle, seals do exsit for both inner and outer but for front, only one reference appears to exist (for inner?).

With all documentation you provided, I'll print it out to make sure brake adjustment would be correct, and then the car should pass its "legal technical exam"

[bbodie52]

According to the manufacturer's website, this part number is applicable to the 1965-1969 Corvair.
Also listed on Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/SKF-17187-Grease ... C76&sr=8-1

https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/us/en/products/17187
Part Compatibility
Criteria for this product to fit Chevrolet Corvair
Wheel - Front
Position: Front

Quantity: 2

Seal 17187

Outer Diameter: 2.405 in
Width: 0.21 in
Bore: 2.401 in
Boretite: Yes
Shaft: 1.7340 in

Do you confirm front seal is only made for inner bearing? I can see for rear axle, seals do exsit for both inner and outer but for front, only one reference appears to exist (for inner?).

There is only one large seal per axle. The larger (inner) bearing carries most of the weight. The smaller outer bearing is protected from dirt and dust by the grease cap.

[66vairguy]

Sometimes "RockAuto" is fine, other times not so good.

Thanks Brad for the input about the seal.

Note the seal has a "GREEN" film on the outer radius. That is supposed to seal it in the hub. I put a VERY THIN film of RTV (silicone) sealer on that area when I press it into the hub, then wipe off excess.

Good luck with your technical inspection.

[auquomes]

Alright, so I can order this seal. I was not sure if this one was made for bearing or not...
Now it's 100% clear, I can complete my order.
I took an appointment to make the car repaired (don't have time enough to do it myself those last times) for 29th Nov... Long time!
Hope he will be able to make the last adjustements...

[66vairguy]

An additional comment about your engine smoking sometimes. This may NOT be your issue, but it's easy to checkI

The Powerglide (automatic transmission) vacuum modulator can cause an engine to smoke when it fails. The modulator is vacuum controlled unit on the side of the transmission to "adjust" shift firmness to match engine power. A small hose goes from the vacuum crossover pipe to the modulator valve on the transmission. If the modulator diaphragm fails it lets transmission oil into the vacuum hose and up to the cross over pipe, and the engine smokes. You can remove the hose and check it for "red" transmission fluid. Don't confuse it with engine oil that can get into the cross over pipe from the PCV system.

If unsure if it's motor oil or transmission fluid in the hose at the crossover, then you have to get under the car, pull the hose off the vacuum modulator and check for transmission fluid.

[bbodie52]

If the Powerglide vacuum modulator has failed and developed a leak in the internal diaphragm, transmission fluid may be seen inside the vacuum hose. Air leaking in at this point (via a damaged vacuum modulator) can make its way in to the engine vacuum balance tube, and could possibly cause a lean fuel/air mixture — resulting in engine detonation under heavy load.

Powerglide Vacuum Modulator Leak

[auquomes]

Thanks 66vairguy for this extra information.
Actually, I was already aware of this hose: I remember I changed it when I bought the car because it failed. Indeed, gear changes were not working well.
But I don't remember if there were any oil leaks inside, coming from the modulator.
Easy to see, that could be a good idea to check.

[66vairguy]

Thanks 66vairguy for this extra information.
Actually, I was already aware of this hose: I remember I changed it when I bought the car because it failed. Indeed, gear changes were not working well.
But I don't remember if there were any oil leaks inside, coming from the modulator.
Easy to see, that could be a good idea to check.

Brad posted some good pictures of a leaking modulator.

One other thing to check is the air cleaner assembly. If the Positive Crankcase Ventilation orifice is plugged up with grime, then oil will accumulate in the air cleaner that can cause the engine to smoke. Here is an article about it. viewtopic.php?f=225&t=18023

[auquomes]

Already heard about this hose.
But I haven't check yet...