Loose rear drive axle spines

[garydup]

hi Gary here from south africa,
as you can imagine here in sa we battel to get parts for our corvairs so we have to make our own plans,i like everyone alse have tried everything from welding to cotter pins and evean drilling in betreen the splinds and installing hardend needle rollers but they all come loose after a while.the first thing is that alot of the time we pull up on the bolt and the thick washer not realizing that we are pulling up on the end of the axel splind and not pulling the yoke down to the end of the splind,so we need to grind a little off here to be just a little below the counter bore in the yoke where the thick washer sits.the next part involves a machinest, you can either make a drawing or speak your machinest so he understands you. ok,the yokes are forged iterms and like any iterm that is forged or made in a mould etc it has to have a negitave,or a taper to be removed or alse it would stick or jam up.ok so if you look at the forging along the outside of the yoke splind it has a
1 deg taper,you need to have your machinest machine you up a socket that has a 1 deg internal taper arround 5mm short of the end of the taper on the yoke, the socket will have to have at least a 10mm wall thickness at the bottom, ok now where the thick washer sits you need to machine up a solid piece of steel to locate here on to of the splinds and extend below where the u bolts go in the yoke, i use a 4lb hammer with some grease in the taper and hammer down hard using about 5 blows at a time each time checking the fit on the splind,you want to compress the splind untill you get a good tap on fit, do not be afraid of crackig or splitting the forging,i have done at least 5 sets like this and not had a failer. obvously if you have acess to a 20 tone press or so it is easier,im not good at pics but if you want me to email you some pics let me know and ill get my son to help me, please let me know how you get on.

regards Gary