ignition point\spark plugs

[dutchair]

hello 66vairguy,

What exactly is the flexible perimeter seal ? and where in the engineroom is it placed ?

BTW, a member of the dutch corvair club wrote me that the overheating problem maybe is caused by a broken\damaged airhose of the heating system.
If this hose is'nt working, the hot air is circulating in the engineroom instead of blowing into the interior . (thanks Ralf)

[64powerglide]

The flexible perimeter seal goes around the engine connected by staples or some people replace them with pop rivits. Both sides, front & back.

[dutchair]

oké 64 powerglide, thanks for the picture

I think this seal is missing at my corvair, i'll take a look this weekend.

BTW, can i replace it for just any other rubber seal ?, or does it has to be a Original ?

Thanks,

[thewolfe]

Your seal will not look like that. That is for an early model. Late model has a different style. Just look at the outer perimeter of the engine sheet metal and it should have a rubber seal that is screwed to the body with sheet metal clips and just pushes onto the engine tins. If there is a gap between the engine sheet metal and the body then you have no perimeter seal. And you definitely need one if that's the case.

[66vairguy]

Nate said it well.

The Dutch member was probably referring to the "fresh air" hose off the top shroud covering the fan through the body panel to the heater air mix box. Why a fresh air, or cold air, hose to the heater box. Simple - the hot air off the lower shroud to the heater is under pressure when the engine runs. The lever to control how hot the air is to the cabin moves a flap in the heater box to mix hot pressurized air with cool pressurized air from the engine fan. The top hose is smaller and can have breaks or splits in it allowing pressurized air to escape so less cooling air is delivered over the engine. This is not an issue in cold weather, but during warmer weather the loss of cooling air via a leak in the upper hose will cause an engine to run hotter.

Brad has an amazing number of diagrams and can post a picture of the upper fresh air hose location.

[bbodie52]

These images show the engine compartment seal for late model (1965-1969) Corvairs. The combination of sheet metal and a rubber seal prevents dirt, water and heated air from entering the engine compartment. The cooling air that passes over the engine cylinder heads and cylinder barrels exits out the rear of the car via the thermostat doors. If the engine shroud and rubber seal were not present, this heated air could reenter the engine compartment, and would then be drawn by the fan blower to pass over the engine cooling fins again. Continuous recycling of this heated air would reduce cooling efficiency and could ultimately cause the engine to overheat. Exhaust fumes and carbon monoxide could also be drawn into the engine compartment, and could then make its way into the passenger compartment via the heater and defroster system. It is therefore very important to properly install and maintain the engine compartment seal around the engine perimeter.

Left-click each image to enlarge for better viewing...

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... AIN&page=8


The appropriate sections of the Corvair Shop Manual and Assembly Manual are attached to illustrate the engine compartment sheet metal and seal...

[dutchair]

thanks for the pictures of the engine seals, they are intact so this won't cause the overheating problem ( i think )

I've called a garage wich is specialized in aircooled engine's, and they adviced me to make sure that the ignition time is right.
And to make sure that the right spark plugs are placed.

and of course that the carburateurs are adjusted correctly (the right mix of air and gasoline).

I thought that it was oké because the car starts and runs well, but probaly is this why the engine gets to hot.
So the first thing i'm gonna try is setting the ignition time right, i've got a flash lighter from a local shop that i can borrow but does anybody know were i can find the UDP mark on the harmonic balancer ? I can only find a small "dent "on the balancer (see picture) but not a mark ? or is the "dent" the UDP mark ?

Anybody ?

[64powerglide]

That is the timing mark, make sure it lines up with the rest of the marks on the outer ring & inner ring on the harmonic balancer. You should be able to see two more lines closer to the bolt. The outer part & inner part are laminated together & can sometime slip & the lines don't line up. It they are all in line you are fine. Be sure to click on the photo to enlarge it to see it better. Someone correct if i'm not right but i'm running my 64 at 14 BTDC & think the late model is 12 to 14 also.

[cad-kid]

Question, what symptoms of overheating are you finding? Like- the temp light, engine pinging, excessive lifter noise after the engine gets hot

[dutchair]

thanks 64 powerglide for the picture,

I don't know if the outer and inner ring lines up, I have to check it thios weekend when i'm planning on working on the corvair

I've got a 110 65 corvair, and a member of the dutch corvairclub told me thatr the timing must be set on 14



Cad-kid

the temp lighting does'nt light up, but i was'nt planning on waiting for that (most of the time your to late when it lights on )
The engine does'nt pinging, and makes no strange noises.
The engine starts to "smoke"when i've driven a few kilometers, it looks and smells like burning oil, but the smoke has no black or white color.
it comes of the fan and air filter, not of the exhaust.
The garage told me that it's probaly a matter of adjusting the carburateurs and the timing and the right spark plugs.
some of the plugs have a white color. (a sign of the wrong mix of fuel and air)

[cad-kid]

Well, my guess is that you aren't over heating. The burning oil smell is most likely coating of grimy yucky oil on the outside of the engine from years of oil leaks (very common). Oil can accumulate on the underside of the engine - take a look in the flaps where the hot air exits the motor. Push rod tubes and oil cooler seal leaks are most common.

Here's a pic of my engine before it was cleaned up - this isn't bad but even this film of oil will cause a smell when the engine gets good and hot.



Good and hot is not necessarily a bad thing as you need the heat to burn off moisture that's in the oil. Take a look and let us know what you find.

There's nothing wrong with being careful, especially where overheating is concerned.

[dutchair]

i've checked the ignition time, and mounted new spark plugs.

The engine stopped leaking oil, so that shouldend be the problem.

the engine is getting hot (of course) but not that much as before i think. it still burns some oil and dirt that is laying on the engine but not as much as before.
I guess it's a matter of time before all the oil is burned up, so i'think i'm just driving it and see what happpens.


Thanks everone for all the help\reactions

gr, dutchair

[cad-kid]

Cool! Did you find the source of the oil leak?

[dutchair]

I think it came of the oil cooler, i've chanced the seals and cleaned up the cooler.

The engine still smokes a bit, but it seams that there is some oil leaking on the hot muffler. not a bad thing, but it does'nt look nice when i have to wait for a traffic light

but i won't drive the car at the moment, yesterday i've driven the car and when i wanted to start it failed (i think the starter has given it up )

gr, dutchair

[cad-kid]

Bummer on the no-start. Keep us posted on what you find.

[Tom Z]

I'm partial to the "110hp" engine ;the 'feeler gauge' method is for a new, UNworn distributor ! I use an 'analog' meter to set the point gap, cap and rotor are OFF so it won't start, and you can see if you're on top-dead-center for #1 piston, or 1/2-way off on 'BDC' (TDC on #2 cyl)..."Dwell" should be 31*-33* on the meter..