My 1964 Corvair Monza Record Of Improvements

[64CorvairMonza]

After having some patience and attempting to install the signal ring, I was successful!! There are the three obstacles>> placing the roller on the outside of the spring and pulling back slightly.... Lining up the 'horse shoe' to fit over that swivel rod ( what ever that's for...) And then lining it up and slipping the shoulder bolt through!!! I see that that lock washer acts as a spacer as well as a tensioner!!! The ring does NOT sit perfectly level or even, inside the column but it is exactly sitting the way it should be. and yes, the two 'walls' on either side of that roller are the stoppers so you don't go too far!! The function feels great!! Now it's on to install the new steering wheel today!!!!

[64CorvairMonza]

Hey another question>> After draining my tank completely and adding 5 gallons fresh high octane fuel in, it is evident as you can see by the previous photo that something's wired backward at the sending unit? Am I right about needing to reverse my wiring on those two terminals?? It should fall to the 'empty' mark when the key is turned off. It appears that there's a new tank and sending unit and I spose the previous owner wired it.

[terribleted]

I do not know which page of this thread that photo might be on, but, the post that sticks out of the sending unit plate connects to the gauge. The other wire is a ground connection that simply connects the plate of the sending unit to the body.

[64CorvairMonza]

I do not know which page of this thread that photo might be on, but, the post that sticks out of the sending unit plate connects to the gauge. The other wire is a ground connection that simply connects the plate of the sending unit to the body.

No, I meant that on my previous post photo, you can see the gas gauge reading FULL with the key off and only 5 gals. in the tank. I spose with the key on it should read about 1/4 full but I suspect with the reverse wiring, it probably will read 3/4 because it's backwards. OK, nevermind...

[joelsplace]

There is no specific thing the gauge should do with the key off. It has 2 coils. One pulls it full and the other pulls it empty. One is a constant and the other is a variable that gives you the reading. Key off neither coil is energized so the needle is free to do whatever it likes. If you ground the wire going to the sender it should read empty. Wire disconnected should read full.

[bbodie52]

Here is some material, including some theory on how the fuel gauge circuit functions. Hopefully this will help with your troubleshooting...

The attached wiring schematic shows the fuel gauge circuit on the LM Corvair. This is a very basic circuit, with power coming from the fuse block via a 20 Gauge B/P (Black with Pink Stripe) wire to a connector on the fuel gauge. You should be able to measure 12V DC at this connector with a multimeter (with the key ON) with the other multimeter lead grounded. The other fuel gauge connector is a 20 Gauge T (Tan) wire that is routed to the fuel tank sending unit. The sending unit must be properly grounded to function. When the tank is empty, the sending unit basically is at 0 ohms resistance, and full current flows through the gas gauge, giving an indication of Empty. As the fuel level rises, sending unit resistance increases, which reduces current flow and moves the needle toward Full. You should be able to ground the Tan wire at the fuel tank to obtain an Empty reading, and an open circuit (tank wire disconnected) should show a Full meter reading. Note that the gauge itself must also be properly grounded for the "F Coil" (as it is referred to in the description) to be properly energized to pull the needle to the F mark. If the ground connection on the instrument panel is faulty, the "F Coil" will not be energized properly, and the gauge will not function properly.

You should use a multimeter to verify the presence of 12V DC at the gauge input. The resistance (ohm) setting on the multimeter can be used to ensure that the gauge housing itself is properly grounded to the car chassis. You should also be able to measure 12V DC at the fuel tank wire, with the other test lead grounded. If the voltage is missing there, you may have a broken or loose wire between the gauge and the fuel tank sending unit. (All voltage checks are done with the key ON)

If the voltage is present where it should be (at the gauge input and at the fuel tank sending unit wire connector), and if you have a good chassis ground at the gauge housing and at the fuel tank sending unit, there is a possibility that the gauge itself has failed. If you determine that the gauge is faulty, you may be able to get a used fuel gauge on eBay.

[64CorvairMonza]

Yeh, That backwards gas gauge issue used to be a simpler fix with my Mid 60's Chevys when the gauge read opposite of what it should. My friends would tell me to reverse the wires or check the ground wire and that would fix it. It don't bother me IF the tank reading is accurate when the key is on. I've seen them before, read FULL with the key off and be normal. Just not all do that and that is strange.

[64CorvairMonza]

OK FOLKS!!!!

Today will be REVIEW DAY since I have a package coming from Clark's! I am anxious to check out the goodies. I spent $127 and very carefully picked out very 'NEW' good stuff. I spent $55 for a front left side wheel opening trim for the one missing from my fender. I will then have the full wrap-a-round complete. I have new headlight bucket springs w/ rivets, plastic adjusters ( to re-build my buckets with), the gas filler pipe gasket doughnut/ring, etc. BUT, since this package came from Mass. and according to my detailed tracking, has gone through about 17 different hands, not to mention being tossed onto and off the UPS truck, I will be paying close attention to that fender trim. I ordered NEW oem and not used or 'seconds', so I'm waiting with baited breath. I spend thousands of dollars a year on ebay and yet to get a damaged item. And ordering from CHINA is not happening again. I've gotten a couple used items when sellers claimed new/unused and that's a huge no-no in my book. I pay for new and searched for new, and it should be new.

Anyway, I forgot to get the nose trim insert triangle, so, that will be next time around. I removed my front trim between my headlights and was pleased to see how nice the paint was behind. IF I had a Maco near me and I had $700 to $1000 to spend, I would send it out anyway, but, I'm going to touch up and polish what I have because, overall it's ALL RED!! LOL..... Heck maybe it's a $400 maco job.. Yeh, Maco has different levels of quality work and paint... I'm also going to buy a pair of new HELLA horns and install them before re-installing the headlight buckets UNLESS I determine that I can re-install my mud protectors just as easy once removed and cleaned up. I've never seen a factory use so much undercoating as I've seen here! I'll see how hard of task it will be to remove and re-coat correctly on these mud protectors behind the headlights and horns. They are intact and look very rust free too!!! Anyway, I have no idea what the two holes are for at the nose that would be behind that triangle trim inset but I see some sign of Bondo near the hole but no evidence of damage behind. I also believe this hood has been changed out because there's a sign of Bondo repair and a tiny crack in the front to the left of the point/nose of the hood. . Like I've said before I wish to replace both deck-lids anyway. I'm still unsure if this paint is EMBER RED as it was originally but I have a can of BRIGHT RED coming for painting the head light buckets (instead of black) and I will see how close that will be to a match. I'm doubting it's Ember Red but maybe BRIGHT RED or PORSCHE RED, (same color). I just has that bright reddish orange hue that makes it look like it's on fire in the sun. Same color I painted my 65 Impala with. ALSO, I noticed that there used to be trim on the lip of the hood. That leads me to think it was an older hood. I'm lead to believe that 60-64 hoods are all the same but I really think 63' and 64' are swapable. Anyway, I've got photos to share and I will be back later when I receive my delivery. I hope to be giving 5 stars. In the meanwhile, I'm gonna watch me some TV...LOL.... See ya'll after while!!!!

[doug6423]

Love your posts!

And i hate all the short cuts the previous owner took on my car. They are frustrating.


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

[64CorvairMonza]

Love your posts!

And i hate all the short cuts the previous owner took on my car. They are frustrating.


Sent from my iPhone using Corvair Forum mobile app

They sure are! Sometimes you feel like you are correcting someone's bad deeds to make it right. And the person that get's your car, got it from someone who cared for correct detail. It just seems like all the time, I get the 'junk' and the next guy get's a gem... Then I seem to attract more junk and repeat the cycle. I'm keeping this one! I finally found something I can relax with. I call it a 'restoration vacation' LOL! I have a real dislike for people who cut corners!

[64CorvairMonza]

OK, I hate sitting on my hands waiting for a delivery so, today I done good!! I stripped a passenger side light bucket I got from ebay and only one problem I didn't expect but that's ok, cause I can take and use a trim mount from the old bucket!!! Anyway I has pictures again!!! I stripped a bucket of everything except the two top and one bottom trim mount bracket. Not worth the trouble because they will be rust proof by the time I get them painted. First I Dremel grinded the rolled back metal from the ground wire. Then, I took my Dremel with the cut-off wheel and carefully removed enough of the back side of the rivets to remove the two springs. I felt uncomfortable with the drill inside them. Then I did drill the rivets to release the plastic adjusters. Then I drilled the two rivets holding the one unexpected broken trim mounting bracket. Then it was off to a plastic bin and it took three gallons of White Vinegar to cover the bucket. I also dropped the 4 adjuster bolts in the soup. BTW, I will reuse this vinegar a few times before I pour it on weeds to kill them.. I can leave metal parts in there for eternity because Citric acid ONLY dissolves corrosion or rust (the true name eludes me at the moment). I will let it soak a couple days I think, then lift it and take a peek for progress. I'm in no hurry because those in a hurry make mistakes and take shortcuts!! I do hate not finding new oem buckets. I will keep on the look out and I may send an e-mail the 'The Ranch' and see if they can pull a clean set of buckets for my 64 Coupe. I may or may not use this bucket but I hate to see salvageable items go to waste. I'm just bored. Anyway, UPS delivery is still on it's way and I have some photos to post in the meanwhile. Thanks for all the help and compliments!!! If anyone needs a photo of something to compare to their's to see if they match correctly or how something's wired, let me know. See ya's in a while.

Here I took a diamond grinder to my Dremel to remove the ground wire so I could prepare to soak the bucket. It came off nicely and it's copper!!

The rust pitted springs were next. I have new oem parts to replace these parts I'm removing.

Next are the adjusters after I removed the adjusting screws.Then I punched out the remaining rivet stud.

THEN I found this bracket broke. It didn't look rusty at all. Very strange but I removed it before the bath.

OK, time for the White Distilled Vinegar bath!!!!! Strange that I like the smell of it. I'm still smellin' my fingers..... Hahaha, just kiddin'..

[64CorvairMonza]

Package has arrived!! The box looked like the size of what I expected with a large trim part inside. It was nice that they wrote that the package be placed on top so heavy stuff wasn't sitting on top of it. And they tossed in some fabric samples and a new book to use next time I order!! Thanks Clark's!!! 5 stars!!!!

[64CorvairMonza]

It looks like some photos stay open and some you have to click to open. Don't know if it's just on my end or what. <><> CORRECTION<><> OK, I see it just took longer for them to open. And if you click on them they can get really huge LOL......

[64CorvairMonza]

I sent my review findings to Clark's and they responded. The first time I asked for a tracking number and they respondd then also. usually you don't get to respond to a company because it's just automated message!! Kudos to Clark's!! Here's the final conversation>>

ME>> "Thanks Clark's Folks!! Got my order today and did a review at CorvairForum.com and it's 5 stars!!!! Anyway, thanks for a great experience and look forward to doing business again soon!! Scott (Florida)"

THEM>> " Thank you for the feedback! We are glad you are happy with your experience."

[64CorvairMonza]

AS far as that can of Rustoleum Bright Red I ordered, I was very disappointed that it looks more like Candy Red or med. dark red!! I did a test on a plastic card and laid it on the car. Maybe the car paint is really Ember Red!! Should come very close to Bright Red but that can I got is not the Rustoleum Bright Red I have used before!!! Maybe because it was the 'Hard Hat' style. But I thought all Bright reds are bright reds under one brand. I will use it for rust proofing or as an 'under' under coat LOL...... Does anyone still know where we can easily get touch up paints for ember red or any 60's paint? Maybe I should ask the auto parts store to see if they could request a special order. I did find a site that we can get it from, but I'd rather walk into a store and get it off the shelf. BUT>> For those who absolutely can't find their paint, I found a site that has the color history and can send you the paint you need by your paint code in any quantity!!! I'm yet to try them but still seeking locally. Can't even find any on ebay. Anyway, thanks for your help.....
https://www.paintscratch.com/touch_up_p ... -1964.html

[64CorvairMonza]

OK, I installed my missing fender trim that I got from Clark's and changed out my hard rotted fuel filler neck doughnut and both were very easy to install. I laid the new rubber doughnut in the sun for about 15 minutes to help it stretch even better. I thought it would be stiffer than it was but after I worked it around the fuel neck and slowly worked my fingers around it to slide it down and into place, it was very nice! And to install it was just taking your fingers and pushing against it and it just popped into place as you worked your way around it!!! No more filler tube slop!!! I also checked on my pass. side light bucket I have soaking and it is coming along great!! I will pull it and run it under the faucet tomorrow and then take my air compressor to it to quickly dry it up to minimize flash rusting. Then I'll shoot it with that red Rustoleum I bought when ready to paint. If there are any pits and pin holes in the buckets, I'll Bondo fill them first. To preserve the rust free metal until I'm ready to paint it, I'll spray with OSPHO, then when dry, I'll wrap it in newspaper. When doing the Vinegar Soak, try to use a lid for better results so it stays potent and if the lid isn't very tight or you don't have one, try to keep the stuff out side if it's to be uncovered for a while because the vapors of Citric Acid will jump out while your back is turned and attack any surrounding metal in the building, even on vehicles, including chrome, etc. I just play it safe and soak outside. Here's some photos.