Squeaking from rear End

[jcannon44]

Under load ( no sound when on lift) i can hear squeak/whistle when going down road from drivers side rear. How can I determine if it’s wheel bearing or U-Joint etc. 1966 monza convertible. Appreciate any direction here. I’ve check for hoses rubbing and they are all well clear.


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.

[terribleted]

So when exactly does this noise occur. Only when you first accelerate? How about going over bumps? Does it sounds like a metal on metal squeak or is it a whistle (quite different sounds to me). Wheel bearings tend to rumble or grind. U-joints can squeak...a chirp chirp chirp kind of squeak likely during acceleration . You can check them by removing the axle and feeling their action...they should be free and smooth in movement. Rubber hoses do not make squeaks. Looks closely at the rear suspension bushings. Worn out bushings can allow metal parts to contact where they should not and squeak when they move. Look closely at the large bushings at the front of the main rear suspension arms (forward of the wheels where it bolts to the body). If this bushing loosens or rots out it can allow the suspension arm to move in or out (should be held roughly centered by the bushing) and to then contact the body which can make a loud squeak when accelerating and over bumps and dips.

[64powerglide]

How about the brake shoes? Does it still squeak with real light pressure on the brake pedal?

[jcannon44]

How about the brake shoes? Does it still squeak with real light pressure on the brake pedal?

Still squeaks when brakes applied.


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.

[jcannon44]

So when exactly does this noise occur. Only when you first accelerate? How about going over bumps? Does it sounds like a metal on metal squeak or is it a whistle (quite different sounds to me). Wheel bearings tend to rumble or grind. U-joints can squeak...a chirp chirp chirp kind of squeak likely during acceleration . You can check them by removing the axle and feeling their action...they should be free and smooth in movement. Rubber hoses do not make squeaks. Looks closely at the rear suspension bushings. Worn out bushings can allow metal parts to contact where they should not and squeak when they move. Look closely at the large bushings at the front of the main rear suspension arms (forward of the wheels where it bolts to the body). If this bushing loosens or rots out it can allow the suspension arm to move in or out (should be held roughly centered by the bushing) and to then contact the body which can make a loud squeak when accelerating and over bumps and dips.

Good thoughts, will check out these things.


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.

[jcannon44]

So when exactly does this noise occur. Only when you first accelerate? How about going over bumps? Does it sounds like a metal on metal squeak or is it a whistle (quite different sounds to me). Wheel bearings tend to rumble or grind. U-joints can squeak...a chirp chirp chirp kind of squeak likely during acceleration . You can check them by removing the axle and feeling their action...they should be free and smooth in movement. Rubber hoses do not make squeaks. Looks closely at the rear suspension bushings. Worn out bushings can allow metal parts to contact where they should not and squeak when they move. Look closely at the large bushings at the front of the main rear suspension arms (forward of the wheels where it bolts to the body). If this bushing loosens or rots out it can allow the suspension arm to move in or out (should be held roughly centered by the bushing) and to then contact the body which can make a loud squeak when accelerating and over bumps and dips.

Not a rumble or grind at all, more a chirp. Almost bird like, in fact I thought it was birds at first. Happens when moving, not just when accelerating , can hear it when gliding down my long driveway with engine off.


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.

[64powerglide]

I have a chirping coming my front right brake, just touch the pedal & it stops. Figured I had a warped drum that needs turning a bit. Sounds like you might have a dry U-Joint.

[terribleted]

That is likely a bad u-joint. If one is bad, I usually change them all unless some have already been replaced and look and feel like new. They are cheap enough and if I am getting the tools out to do one might as well just do all 4. You will need a ratchet tie down strap to make it easy to re-install the axle once removed. Once the axle is out (with everything else in the suspension still assembled) the main arm will move outwards from spring pressure making it difficult to remove and very hard to re-install the rear axle). You can use the strap to hold the arm in for removal and will need it for installation.

[bbodie52]

This is a common problem area with 1965-1969 Corvairs. The squeaking in turns is a concern that you need to isolate. The rear axle bearing may initially squeak but if the bearing assembly is going dry and the lubricant is failing the squeaking will eventually become a grinding sound as the bearing is damaged and begins to disintegrate. They are packed with grease but not easy to dismantle, clean, inspect and repack with fresh grease. They last for years without maintenance, but eventually the do wear out or become internally damaged, and if they start to squeak they need to be rebuilt. With a 50+ year old car if one starts to squeak it would probably be wise to pull them both and have them both shipped off and rebuilt by a competent specialist. This is better than a failure on the road somewhere! I had one fail in my 1965 coupe while traveling with my wife and family across country from California to New Jersey. It failed in Cheyenne, Wyoming after I had already traveled across some pretty desolate country in Nevada and Utah. Luckily (in 1981) I managed to find a used wheel bearing assembly in a Cheyenne, WY junk yard. I was able to swap it out and continue our journey. I also had another of these assemblies fail in my 1965 Corsa convertible in 1982 while I was stationed in Germany. I had to have my father ship a replacement to me from California! These assemblies are fairly easy to remove as an assembly, but not easy to dismantle and rebuild as a DIY project. However, you can have them rebuilt on an exchange basis from many Corvair suppliers. In any case, i would recommend trying to isolate the location of the squeak in your Corvair so that you can take appropriate action to get it fixed. I isolated the squeak by having my wife drive the car down the street while I ran along side — listening to locate where it was coming from.

Don't ever trust scissors jacks, or hydraulic jacks for that matter, when working under a car — my factory-provided Corvair scissors jack drive screw squeaked as I was jacking the car up, and the threads pulled right out of the fixed nut and it collapsed as I was trying to lower it! Since I was working without jack stands, laying under the engine and with no wheel on the car, I could have been crushed as I laid under that car for hours working to change the bearing assembly and reinstall the half shaft! My life literally hung by a thread! I was stupid and lucky!!

Removal of the rear axle bearing assemblies begins with removal of the axle half shafts. If you suspect (hope) that the noise is coming from a universal joint, these must be removed anyway to inspect and possibly replace faulty or failing universal joints.

Removal of the wheel bearing assembly involves wheel removal, disconnecting the rear axle (half-shaft), removing the brake drum and brake components, disconnecting the parking brake cable, and finally removing four nuts that secure the assembly and brake backing plate to the suspension. Then the whole assembly, with the brake backing plate, is boxed up and shipped to Clark's for a professional rebuild. If you don't want your Corvair sitting on jack stands for a few weeks, you can order the parts in advance and then get your core refund later when you return the faulty unit(s).

Late model Corvairs (65-69) had a completely redesigned rear axle bearing design. Fortunately none of the parts needed in a rebuild are very exotic (except the outer seal, which we have had remanufactured). The major disadvantage to this design is the actual rebuilding of a 30 year old unit - they can be very difficult to get apart, and require careful measuring to get back to correct installed clearances. You’re in luck because we’ve rebuilt a lot of these assemblies and have the tools and experience to do it right! We disassemble and clean all parts. Exterior parts are painted black. New inner and outer bearings and races are replaced as are both inner and outer seals. Correct clearance is figured and shims are added as needed. Finally moly grease is added and the unit is ready to go! Note that the only difference between 65 and 66-69 is the end yoke. The 65 type has smaller bolts. Both are interchangeable with each other by simply using the correct bolts and straps. Note also that there is a Right and a Left but the only difference there is the hole drilled in the backing plate for the e brake cable. Folks that carry a spare unit will drill the opposite hole and just carry a rubber plug to block off whichever hole is not in use. Because this is a rebuilt item there is a core charge (or you can send your old core ahead). The core charge will be listed in the price sheet with the part number as usual. Do not send any brake parts with the backing plate! But we do need the backing plate because it’s captive in the completed bearing assembly.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=167

[jcannon44]

This is a common problem area with 1965-1969 Corvairs. The squeaking in turns is a concern that you need to isolate. The rear axle bearing may initially squeak but if the bearing assembly is going dry and the lubricant is failing the squeaking will eventually become a grinding sound as the bearing is damaged and begins to disintegrate. They are packed with grease but not easy to dismantle, clean, inspect and repack with fresh grease. They last for years without maintenance, but eventually the do wear out or become internally damaged, and if they start to squeak they need to be rebuilt. With a 50+ year old car if one starts to squeak it would probably be wise to pull them both and have them both shipped off and rebuilt by a competent specialist. This is better than a failure on the road somewhere! I had one fail in my 1965 coupe while traveling with my wife and family across country from California to New Jersey. It failed in Cheyenne, Wyoming after I had already traveled across some pretty desolate country in Nevada and Utah. Luckily (in 1981) I managed to find a used wheel bearing assembly in a Cheyenne, WY junk yard. I was able to swap it out and continue our journey. I also had another of these assemblies fail in my 1965 Corsa convertible in 1982 while I was stationed in Germany. I had to have my father ship a replacement to me from California! These assemblies are fairly easy to remove as an assembly, but not easy to dismantle and rebuild as a DIY project. However, you can have them rebuilt on an exchange basis from many Corvair suppliers. In any case, i would recommend trying to isolate the location of the squeak in your Corvair so that you can take appropriate action to get it fixed. I isolated the squeak by having my wife drive the car down the street while I ran along side — listening to locate where it was coming from.

Don't ever trust scissors jacks, or hydraulic jacks for that matter, when working under a car — my factory-provided Corvair scissors jack drive screw squeaked as I was jacking the car up, and the threads pulled right out of the fixed nut and it collapsed as I was trying to lower it! Since I was working without jack stands, laying under the engine and with no wheel on the car, I could have been crushed as I laid under that car for hours working to change the bearing assembly and reinstall the half shaft! My life literally hung by a thread! I was stupid and lucky!!

Removal of the rear axle bearing assemblies begins with removal of the axle half shafts. If you suspect (hope) that the noise is coming from a universal joint, these must be removed anyway to inspect and possibly replace faulty or failing universal joints.

Removal of the wheel bearing assembly involves wheel removal, disconnecting the rear axle (half-shaft), removing the brake drum and brake components, disconnecting the parking brake cable, and finally removing four nuts that secure the assembly and brake backing plate to the suspension. Then the whole assembly, with the brake backing plate, is boxed up and shipped to Clark's for a professional rebuild. If you don't want your Corvair sitting on jack stands for a few weeks, you can order the parts in advance and then get your core refund later when you return the faulty unit(s).

Late model Corvairs (65-69) had a completely redesigned rear axle bearing design. Fortunately none of the parts needed in a rebuild are very exotic (except the outer seal, which we have had remanufactured). The major disadvantage to this design is the actual rebuilding of a 30 year old unit - they can be very difficult to get apart, and require careful measuring to get back to correct installed clearances. You’re in luck because we’ve rebuilt a lot of these assemblies and have the tools and experience to do it right! We disassemble and clean all parts. Exterior parts are painted black. New inner and outer bearings and races are replaced as are both inner and outer seals. Correct clearance is figured and shims are added as needed. Finally moly grease is added and the unit is ready to go! Note that the only difference between 65 and 66-69 is the end yoke. The 65 type has smaller bolts. Both are interchangeable with each other by simply using the correct bolts and straps. Note also that there is a Right and a Left but the only difference there is the hole drilled in the backing plate for the e brake cable. Folks that carry a spare unit will drill the opposite hole and just carry a rubber plug to block off whichever hole is not in use. Because this is a rebuilt item there is a core charge (or you can send your old core ahead). The core charge will be listed in the price sheet with the part number as usual. Do not send any brake parts with the backing plate! But we do need the backing plate because it’s captive in the completed bearing assembly.

http://www.corvair.com/user-cgi/catalog ... w_page=167

Will try to isolate.


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.

[jcannon44]

That is likely a bad u-joint. If one is bad, I usually change them all unless some have already been replaced and look and feel like new. They are cheap enough and if I am getting the tools out to do one might as well just do all 4. You will need a ratchet tie down strap to make it easy to re-install the axle once removed. Once the axle is out (with everything else in the suspension still assembled) the main arm will move outwards from spring pressure making it difficult to remove and very hard to re-install the rear axle). You can use the strap to hold the arm in for removal and will need it for installation.

I hope it is the U-Joint!


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.

[bbodie52]

I hope it is the U-Joint!

This Corvair Forum post might be helpful...

U-Joint / Half Shaft Restoration Part 1: Corsa GT Project
viewtopic.php?f=225&t=2148

U-Joint / Half Shaft Restoration Part 2: Corsa GT Project
viewtopic.php?f=225&t=2149

[jcannon44]

I hope it is the U-Joint!

This Corvair Forum post might be helpful...

U-Joint / Half Shaft Restoration Part 1: Corsa GT Project
viewtopic.php?f=225&t=2148

U-Joint / Half Shaft Restoration Part 2: Corsa GT Project
viewtopic.php?f=225&t=2149

Thank You!


Jeff Cannon, Smithfield, VA
1966 Corvair Monza Conv.